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Bijur One Shot Question

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  • Bijur One Shot Question

    My Bridgeport that I got a few weeks ago has a one shot on it. It seems the little check valves are jammed up. I can't get anything to pass through them. However, maybe they are designed to only crack under high hydraulic pressure and only allow it to flow very slowly. When I pump the unit the handle stays up and will only creep down after a few hours.
    Arbo & Thor (The Junkyard Dog)

  • #2
    You probably have dried crud in it. I took the inlet port off mine, and blew compressed air through it. Then followed with copious amounts of mineral spirits, followed by ATF.
    When you can see the red dye coming out of all the oil ports, you know you're all-clear. Then clean out the sump and replace with way oil.
    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."


    • #3
      I currently have all the little check valves soaking in lacquer thinner
      Arbo & Thor (The Junkyard Dog)


      • #4

        Those ports are called metering valves and they control the amount of oil that bleeds out based on the distance from the pump.
        They can be difficult to clean so i hope the soaking will work. Make sure to remove and replace in the same locations that they came from.



        • #5
          They rarely can be fixed. The input side of the metering unit has a filter that get blocked; you cannot reverse flush them because of the internal check valve. Toss them, buy new ($8-12 each), clean out the incoming lines with Brakleen, replace the in-tank filters.


          • #6
            + 1 on Lakeside53


            • #7
              Having worked on way to many Bijur systems they "suck" if you had a system that has 10 meters in it you could plug up 9 of them and still see your pump handle go down and you would think its working. When we rebuilt many machines they were sold a Lincoln lube system which is a positive displacement system if any outlet got plugged the system would go into fault , just look at the meter block and you could see what line was plugged , but they are to expensive for BRPT's .
              Some Lincoln systems had a fault interrupter built in and wired to the machine control if it went into fault machine would not go into the next cycle with out correcting the fault.


              • #8
                +1 on Lakeside 53, just been there done that on my 39 year old Brown & Sharpe 612 surface grinder. Make sure you noted what number went to where, they have little numbers like 0, 1, 2 etc and the number is the amount of oil it meters. I found some on flea bay and two on amazon.

                After changing them pump till you see oil coming out of each one then reconnect the line and pump a lot more to bleed the lines out.

                As others have mentioned they are a metering check valve and only flow the obvious way. They get clogged one way and you'll never force it on through.

                My Web Site


                • #9
                  ARC in the UK sells the metering valves in various form quite cheaply.


                  Being small the postage shouldn't be excessive, however note most are metric threads.

                  Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.


                  • #10
                    It's one of those "you can run but you can't hide" things. Bijur and most other open cycle lube systems are almost impossible to clean so they work pproperly. Each restrictor has a porous bromze filter that gums up.

                    It's simplest to dismantle and clean the pump and lube lines, fill with clean oil, purge the lube line with clean oil, replace all the restrictors (they might look like an inline check valve,) and continue checking as you go that all points to be lubed have oil delivered to them.

                    Nope, nope, nope. The Achilles heel in cleaning one shot system restrictor is the porous bronze filer in each. The restrictor is in part calibrated by the flow restriction of the filter. The threaded assembly only fine tunes it. I've tried everything to salvage them by purging them with 3000 PSI acetone from a Haskel pump. Nope. Buy new and replace them. They're not terribly expensive for a turret mill with what - 8 - 10 lube points?

                    BYW, that's one reason you don't use any oil handy in a one-shot system. Some oils react with others someting to form gum or soft precipitates. These don't hinder lubrication in the slightest but in the fine interstices of a porous filter may react with the metal to cause mischief. Just guessing at the mechanism for clogging but you get the picture: clean oil of one kind.
                    Last edited by Forrest Addy; 11-04-2012, 01:27 PM.


                    • #11
                      You can also buy them direct from Bijur - $25 or $50 (I forget which) minimum, but that's easy to meet


                      • #12
                        In a hobby shop I would suggest simply binning the whole system if at all possible and replacing with a common rail of zerks, or barring this, replace both the lines and the metering valves. As said the metering valves are next to impossible to clean, and I would replace the lines with clean, clear lines so you can visually see the oil flow. The last thing you want is one line to become plugged where you cannot see it, as typically you can not tell by "feel."
                        "I am, and ever will be, a white-socks, pocket-protector, nerdy engineer -- born under the second law of thermodynamics, steeped in the steam tables, in love with free-body diagrams, transformed by Laplace, and propelled by compressible flow."


                        • #13
                          The problem with clear lines (which I have in places) is that your cannot see the oil flow unless it contains dirt or bubbles. A tube filled with oil looks like... a tube filled with oil.

                          In reality... if you start clean, keep the oil reservoir clean and with a decent filter, it will last many decades, if not forever. On my 1950's B&S surface grinder, it's extremely difficult to keep all grit out of the oil return. Even though it has a large main return filter, crap happens when you change it, so I added a separate Bijur filter after the pump.

                          On BP it's easy - the manifold is external to the machine; you can just disconnect each output tube and look for flow. To test the lines I took and old metering unit, drilled it out and used it as an adapter to interface an oil pump (I used another bijur pump but you can just use an oil can ) to the line. I used ATF so I could visually see the color change on the ways etc. Easy to test each in turn.
                          Last edited by lakeside53; 11-04-2012, 12:05 PM.