Is this quill and center garbage?

[Jon Heron]

Hello all,
VERY Newbie machinist here.
I have a beat up King 10x22 machine lathe that was practically given to me and I have slowly been fixing it up...
Some pig has obviously been hammering on the tailstock and manged to break the handwheel. The quill looks very abused also, as is the center point that came with it.
Is it worth trying to clean up and true either of these pieces or should I just order a new quill and centre?
I can fix the handwheel easy enough but I am thinking that if the taper in the quill is wore that there is not much that can be done? As far as the centre goes, I dont know if I should be concerned with hardness or what Dont really know much about machining....
Cheers,
Jon

[Jon Heron]

[lakeside53]

It can all be fixed.

That last picture - degrease, and jb weld will make it like new.

The bad keyway - mill another on the other side, ot if it's cheap, buy another.

The taper - ream it if bad, but it might be cheaper to buy the quill than a decent reamer.

The Center tip - grind/turn it or buy another - they are cheap.

[SGW]

A Morse taper reamer (assuming it's a Morse taper) will restore the taper bore.

Buy a new center -- as lakeside53 says, they're cheap.

An epoxy fix for the broken handwheel is certainly worth a try.

Some slop in the keyway may be annoying but it shouldn't hurt functionality.

[rohart]

Dont really know much about machining..

Not yet, please.

The first lessons about hardness are 1) if a gentle touch with a sharp file skims over the work rather than grabbing it, it's hard, and 2) if it's hard you can't machine it with HSS tools.

Carbide can do stuff with hard material, but only if you're desperate and have a strong lathe. Grinding, just a little at a time with a fast grinding wheel, with well contrained geometry, does work. For example, although I agree you should buy a new centre, you could fix it up by mounting the centre in a lathe spindle, mounting an angle grinder on the top slide, setting the top slide at 60/30 degrees, and taking a thou or two off each pass.

One thing to remember is that there's hard material that's hard, like a centre, and there's soft material that's been case hardened, like the bearing surface of a crankshaft. Cut below the surface of the latter and you're into soft again.

I hope that gives you a picture of how to look at 'hard'.

[BigJohnT]

After gluing the indicator back to the wheel a couple of SHCS's or spring pins to secure it would be nice.

John

[sasquatch]

Surprising how totally DUMB people are , when you find things like this.

[Jon Heron]

Thanks for all the feedback folks, much appreciated!
I guess I could cut a new keyway on the quill by somehow clamping it to the cross slide and putting a mill in the lathe chuck? What type of cutter would I use for that?
I wonder if a reamer will be worth more then the quill, time to get some prices I guess... How can I tell if the taper even needs reaming? Maybe I just need to clean it up a bit with some emery cloth or lapping compound?
Richard, you paint a fine picture, thanks!
BibJohn, what are "SHCS's"? I was planing on drilling and tapping 3 10/32's through the handwheel into the broken dial thingy to repair it.
sasquatch, are you in North Bay Ontario? I used to live in New Liskeard, north of there, did my entire apprenticeship up there (electrician), nice part of the country!
Cheers,
Jon

[wawoodman]

SHCS=Socket Head Cap Screw

[lakeside53]

Don't use emery etc in a morse taper bore - it needs to be really good fit and gringing away will just make it worse.

[Jaakko Fagerlund]

If the clean taper doesn't hold clean tapered shank, then it is time to renew or buy new. So check it after cleaning with a good taper.

[goodscrap]

buy a new centre or borrow a new drill with the appropriate mores taper, then use some engineers blue to gauge how good the bore of the quill is before you start putting in work restoring the keyway etc.