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  • Pipe Extractor?

    Question? How to reach down twenty feet inside schedule 2 inch diameter schedule 40 Plastic Water Well Pipe and Pull the entire thing out of the ground with the well derrick? I am supposed to build a tool that is knurled on the outside and taper bored on the shaft and inside the bore. This is supposed to open up and grab the Inside of thr Pipe. Any ideas guys how to build one. Thanx Guys Audrey

  • #2
    The rope broke? How much pipe is hanging in this well?
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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    • #3
      Drilling companies usually have a special deep field magnet just for this purpose.
      Depends how much weight (and such) you have to lift.
      I've seen it done and amazed more than once on what was salvaged.
      ( 2" pipe is very small, could be a problem )

      Tom M.

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      • #4
        The photo below is a Hilti anchor bolt. I think that if you make something similar and use a rubber "O" ring in place of the tape it should do the job.





        [This message has been edited by G.A. Ewen (edited 03-09-2004).]
        To invent, you need a good imagination - and a pile of junk. Thomas A. Edison

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        • #5
          You know, looking at the top end of that photo George provided stirs another idea (if you have room to grip the outside). Imagine an upward force pulling on the high end of that washer. Now imagine that there are two washers, with the high ends 180deg apart (so the lifting force doesn't cant the pipe over to one side). Then attach the lifting rope/chain/cable/etc. to the middle of a bridle, the ends of which connect to the two washers that will pinch onto the pipe.

          I'd think that'd work IF you have sufficient clearance surrounding the pipe. If the top of the pipe is 20' down, you'd have to lower another section down as a quide to mate with the lower piece and slip the washers down around it.

          Just another idea...

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          • #6
            After pondering it some more, another thought ocurred. That same principle I mentioned above could also be applied internally. Imagine the inside cross-section if cut at a slight angle, say 5deg or so. It would be elliptical. Now if an elliptical disk with some gripping teeth or knurling on the edges of the long radii were lowered into the pipe, with cable attached to the lower (long way) side, and some added weight on the high side (long way), an upward jerk would wedge that puppy in there good'n tight. Would need to lower it in with two lines to keep the non-loadbearing side 'high' til jerked, and might need to have the narrow dimension very slightly less than pipe ID so it could rotate freely when jerked.


            Hey, another idea..., remember the posthole thread from a year or so ago? Buy a 20ft section of surplus, large diameter posthole and drive that in on top of the lost pipe, then send a small person down on a ladder to attach a chain.

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            • #7
              How about something like a Chinese finger puzzle in reverse? As you slide it down the well, it would be stretched out and slightly smaller than the pipe ID. When you start to lift, it would grip tighter as you put more pull on it. You'll be pulling up on the bottom of the "puzzle". You could run a line to the top of the expanding part to release it if you needed to get it out.

              I'd make it pretty long to spread out the load on the plastic pipe. The last thing you want is for the pipe to split.

              Roger

              [This message has been edited by winchman (edited 03-09-2004).]
              Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

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              • #8
                You've seen tailpipe expanders, eh? Possibly a modification to one of them might work, but I bet building something that works similarly would be better. Also, threading it and using threaded allrod to control it might be more workable than trying to drop it in with a rope. You could slid short sections of tubing down over the allrod to assist expansion. (just don`t let it slip from your grasp!:-O )

                [This message has been edited by Arcane (edited 03-09-2004).]
                Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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                • #9
                  they're right-on with the hilti anchor bolt style tool. This is very similar to what commercial drilling companies or "fishing contractors" (search for "red baron"; well services, Aberdeen Scotland...doubt they'd have any pics of their tools, most are proprietary but might have something about "fishing" in general) use for recovering dropped drill string (after milling and "sheared" section)....called a "spear"....assuming you're recovering dropped or worse yet, stuck pipe...i'd think you'd want your knurled collar pretty hard, yet able to expand when you pull the taper into it...maybe something more akin to barbs would be better....just my humble .02 worth...good luck and like to see a pic of what you come up with...

                  Chris

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                  • #10
                    Depending of course how tightly the pipe is "stuck", one might use the expansion plugs like plumbers use for testing drainlines. Lower a two inch test plug into the line and then pump it up with air, drag it out by the lowering aircraft cable/chain?
                    rollin'

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                    • #11
                      Just make sure you have an air gap in whatever you make. This will alow the water to empty from the pipe as you pull it up. The pipe only weighs about 5lbs. per 20ft. Filled with water, it's considerably more.

                      The type of extractors they use down here look like a tube with three rows of small toothed cams on the sides. The tube goes over the pipe. Once the pipe is up high enough for the rig to latch on, they cut the pipe below the tool and give the pipe a hit with a mallet. Pops right out of the tool.

                      I think you'll find out the compressive strength of the pipe will be higher than the expansion strength. If you don't have the OD sleeved on an internal expanding devise, it may not carry the load. The pipe will expand.

                      Ops, forgot to ask. Is this 2 inch pipe inside a well casing or it IS the casing?

                      [This message has been edited by CCWKen (edited 03-09-2004).]

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                      • #12
                        It is the casing. My tool that I built worked better than the two they had. Im changing from the knurl to a more aggressive type pattern. Havent figured that out yet. Thanx everyone for the input. Audrey

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                        • #13
                          no problem Audrey...the tool ccwken refers to, i believe is called an "overshot"...might help if you're searching the web for ideas....

                          take care,
                          chris

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                          • #14
                            Audrey

                            The oil industry refers to these tools as down hole recovery tools. Simplier ones look like chinese finger traps while units for extreme deep well (miles) bit recovery are fully robotic and mud powered to retrieve steerable bits worth millions.

                            If your water well guys cannot handle it you can always call the oildfield guys to do it or rent the tools to get it done. Might be cheaper to seal the well off and start over. Good luck.

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                            • #15
                              Hey Audrey, I'd deep six the expanding tool and make a long "TAP". Make the bit at least a foot long. Thread into the pipe and pull. I wouldn't make the threads deaper than 30% of the wall thickness though.

                              Old sucker rod would work for the turning shaft. It's tuff stuff and can take the torque of threading and will sure as heck handle the weight.

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