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Digital Readout for the Lathe

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  • hareng
    replied
    Originally posted by EVguru View Post
    I paid extra for a 1 micron cross-slide scale because I thought I might not be able to find room for it
    I ended up using a magnetic strip encoder which made for a very compact installation; http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/thr...tic-DRO-scale?
    Wish i had the opportunity to go 1 micron two years ago, they werent available then and had the 5 micron on cross slide and tail stock with Sino on X axis.
    Same with the Sino glass, they are not repeatable and really shows when finalising a 0.75mm pitch thread that has to be slick holding 232bar back. Mountings are rock solid no flex or movement.




    Its the same with the newer 11" and proper metric 1965 on 140 the dials dont match up, better off making a new one.

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  • John Stevenson
    replied
    Can you post how to do it Brian please ?
    Preferably in words of one syllable

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  • bborr01
    replied
    Originally posted by John Stevenson View Post
    The Sino has a 20 tool library but I'll be dammed if I can remember how it works.
    managed to do it once and when I tried again I spent that long doing it they'd put the clocks back.
    Took me a few minutes to learn too.

    Brian

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  • loose nut
    replied
    The most important tool to use to make a DRO work right is your Mic.

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  • John Stevenson
    replied
    Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
    One other thing to look for. My lathe came with a digital that has offsets for 9 or 10 different tools. When used with a quick change toolpost holder you can go from one operation to another without measuring anything. The repeatability on mine is excellent when used with insert tooling.

    Brian
    The Sino has a 20 tool library but I'll be dammed if I can remember how it works.
    managed to do it once and when I tried again I spent that long doing it they'd put the clocks back.

    Leave a comment:


  • bborr01
    replied
    One other thing to look for. My lathe came with a digital that has offsets for 9 or 10 different tools. When used with a quick change toolpost holder you can go from one operation to another without measuring anything. The repeatability on mine is excellent when used with insert tooling.

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • John Stevenson
    replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie View Post
    I've never felt the need for a DRO on a/my lathe.
    You don't need one if you don't use it - simples.

    However for anyone that does want to fit one, get the best you can afford in the glass scale or similar type.

    Don't go down the vernier type scale or cheap route.

    remember whatever it reads as an error is double on a lathe because you are feeding forward in radius but removing diameter as you are cutting both sides of the work as it rotates.

    Someting that is accurate to 1 thou then turns out to be 2 thou on diameter and if you are doing say bearing housing it's just not acceptable.

    I fitted one of the Shumatech units to my lathe, total waste of time, a 6" rule was as accurate, now got a Sino and no complaints.

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  • EVguru
    replied
    My 1963 Harrison L5 was an ex school machine and as per regulations had been changed to Metric when that entered the curriculum. Unfortunately because the telescopic cross-slide leadscrew that goes with the taper turning attachment was very expensive, they only changed the actual dial on that axis! I'd taken to working with digital calipers as a matter of course.

    That was fine for most turning ops, but not so good when cutting threads when I'd have to do a conversion from the dial reading to reality (1mm indicated = 1.27mm advanced), even worse if I was cutting an inch thread. When I was upgrading the ancient Mitutoyo DRO on the mill, I took the opportunity to add one to the lathe.

    What a difference in the speed and ease of working!

    Take a clean-up cut, measure the diameter and bang that number into the display. I've found that I can then trust that number as I take successive cuts and get a desired diameter within a thou or so.

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  • MichaelP
    replied
    Macona,

    Do you happen to have photos of your setup?

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  • macona
    replied
    Oh god yes. DROs on a lathe are wonderful. No need to watch out for backlash, able to switch between metric and imperial on the fly. And you know where you are in Z. Better DROs allow you to set tool offsets for different tool holders. This comes in handy big time when you have a quick change tool posts and carbide inserts. Especially if you need to make more than a few of a part. Go fro turning tool to a threading tool and press the button(s) for the new tool and you know where you are in space.

    Mine has a few more features than most, mine supports up to 4 scales, I have one on the carriage, cross slide, and compound. When the compound is set to 29 degrees it will also show you how far in X you have moved to make thread depths easier.

    After using a lathe with a DRO you will really hate using one without.

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  • strokersix
    replied
    Agree with you tiffie. I use my calipers this way on the lathe all the time. Can hit +/-.002" easily. Closer with some care.

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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    I find that I can do most of the "parting off" and other stuff using the "depth" and "step" functions on a digital or dial caliper.

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...l_caliper4.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...l_caliper5.jpg

    http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...caliper2-1.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • lakeside53
    replied
    I'm going to drop way more than that on my 14x40 lathe and put on Newall system...

    Hard to beat for X axis layout / features. Less interesting for cross slide ops but...

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  • randyjaco
    replied
    Do it. You will enjoy your lathe much more and do better work.

    Randy

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  • strokersix
    replied
    I find a 2 inch indicator on mag base plus micrometer stop does all I need on the lathe for part length control. I modified the mag base so it grips non-functional way surfaces. I can slide it around without concern for grinding swarf into the ways. Dial works fine for diameters.

    I don't feel the same about the turret mill. I think DRO is not quite but almost a requirement for a mill.

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