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Variations for mechanic Quotes

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  • Variations for mechanic Quotes

    1984 Ford F250 460 engine in it,. rear seal finally leaking BAD, anyhow one mechanic says 12 hours labour? another says should take 2 hours (this was on ford forum??) anyways anyone ever do a rear seal on a 460 ? Thinking of trying it myself but I kinda dont like working under vehicles in winter time Thanx Mike (any tips would be great)

  • #2
    12 hours is the right way, 2 hours is not so much but has been done.

    12 hours is rear end tear down, new crush sleeve, reset backlash.

    2 hours is marking the pinion nut, pull nut off and replace seal with pinion in place, put nut back on to same spot or just ever so slightly past. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't. If it doesn't work you'll be doing the 12 hours anyhow.
    Andy

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    • #3
      Crush sleeve and a pinion nut on the rear end of a 460 in. Ford motor? Ya got me.

      --G

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      • #4
        Actually, it depends on the block design and the transmission, and if there's a transfer case to deal with. 460's were built both ways, with a two-piece neoprene seal and a one piece press-in neoprene seal. The two-piece seal can be replaced by removing the oil pan and main cap. The one-piece seal requires the transmission and flywheel be removed....of course this means the transmission and if there's a transfer case (4X4), they have to be removed to access the back of the engine. I think Andy misunderstood. He's referring to the rear differential, instead of the engine. 12 hours would be about right for the one-piece seal, maybe a little more, and 2 hours would just about cover an oil pan R & R and seal on the two-piece seal. Unfortunately, they don't interchange.

        Actually, it's only the newer Fords that use a nut & a crush sleeve on the rear of their engines.
        No good deed goes unpunished.

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        • #5
          Sounds Like a Nasty Winter outdoor do it yourself project for sure. I have been meaning to redoe my engine for mileage any how and will pull the heads and freshen up seats and replace valves springs ect, I have gotten good mileage with this truck and its still cheaper than any diesel truck out there while it runs on Propane fuel. I am thinking the engine should come out?? Thats what the last mechanic told me .i will have to check with a ford book at the Library. thanx for comments Mike

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Guido View Post
            Crush sleeve and a pinion nut on the rear end of a 460 in. Ford motor? Ya got me.

            --G


            Wow did I ever read that wrong. I saw rear seal and thought rear end seal.


            I have replaced rear MAIN seals on motors still in vehicles as well. Like mentioned the trans and flywheel have to be pulled. I have a nifty seal driver tool that fits around the crank to drive the new seal back in strait and to the right depth. The most important thing when driving the new seal in while the crank is still in the motor is to make sure the lip on the inside of the seal doesn't fold over. You won't see it once the seal is on.

            Where are you located?
            Andy

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            • #7
              If your main bearings are loose the new seal won't last long. If you plan to keep this truck I would expect a more thorough teardown. If you get in there and the bearings are fine then maybe the seal will do the trick. Just a suggestion.

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              • #8
                Sometimes the quotes vary so much just because the two mechanics are doing it differently.

                1993 Toyota Camry with torn CV boots on both sides. Toyota dealer quoted $800 to remove and replace said tender rubber pieces. All the teardown and reassembly takes time. A local mechanic did it for $300 simply by buying new shaft assemblies with the new boots. Material cost was higher but time was a fraction.


                Dan
                At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

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                • #9
                  Are you sure its not the sending unit leaking ? Had a couple like this before.The oil runs all the way down the back of the motor.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by madman View Post
                    1984 Ford F250 460 engine in it,. rear seal finally leaking BAD, anyhow one mechanic says 12 hours labour? another says should take 2 hours (this was on ford forum??) anyways anyone ever do a rear seal on a 460 ? Thinking of trying it myself but I kinda dont like working under vehicles in winter time Thanx Mike (any tips would be great)

                    Who do you trust? Better yet, did both look at it or are you getting this from the kid at the local oil lube shop that he heard this once and now uses it as a answer for everything?

                    To do it right, the crank should be remove to do the seal. They make tools to pull a seal aroung the top of the crank but that is a very old tar rope type seal. Not used since the 80s. To pull the crank, you have to pull the flywheel.... 12 hours easy.

                    So here it the take away. Make sure it is the rear seal. Look at the back side of the motor from the top, vavle covers leaks are more common. Keep an eye on oil use. Wait for warm weather. Or find someone that will put a warrity on their work for the repair for a year.

                    If you want to check it out yourself stop off at you local parts store and as for oil dye. Grab a black light and start looking. If it is night time you will see the leak!

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                    • #11
                      If u were wanting to do heads also id just pull motor and replace all gaskets which usually dont cost much for entire set. Do ur heads and valve stem seals. Slip new bearings in while apart dont forget to mic.I do it on my cars when i get an older vehicle. I still own to many valve grinder/refacers but its fun to rebuild things.

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                      • #12
                        Yes some good advice, I been thinking about redoing the engine to a propane only,, redoe seats (Tungsten Or carbide whatever they sell for propane apps) and new valves (sodiumn filled and stainless steel) and it sure slowly ads up, Some goodm ideas here thabnx Guys,.!

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                        • #13
                          Here is the OP.

                          Originally posted by madman View Post
                          1984 Ford F250 460 engine in it,. rear seal finally leaking BAD, anyhow one mechanic says 12 hours labour? another says should take 2 hours (this was on ford forum??) anyways anyone ever do a rear seal on a 460 ? Thinking of trying it myself but I kinda dont like working under vehicles in winter time Thanx Mike (any tips would be great)
                          I'd have expected - or insisted upon - each quote having a scope and schedule of works with a scedule of rates (including "mark up" for any spare parts and consumables as well as a completion time - plus a warranty for the work done.

                          There is no way of knowing what is intended or being able to compare quotes.

                          These quotes are too "open-ended" for me as they leave the OP open to all sorts of "extras".

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                          • #14
                            You expect the garage to tell you what their "Mark up" is on parts???

                            Lots of LUCK!!

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                            • #15
                              460 rear main leak

                              As someone who has a love/hate for the Ford 460 (I have one in my '32 5w coupe), I can say that the seal itself is around $30 to $35 for a Felpro
                              seal. I've replaced this seal on mine at least 4 times. The 460 is known to be a problem in that area. I've talked with an engineer from Ford. The are aware if the issue. He sent me a seal that he personally measured an was to spec. So far, it's been good with no leak.
                              As posted by others, the length of the job depends on what's in the way of getting the pan off and having access to the rear main cap.
                              Mine is open front to rear so I can get to the crank. You need to loosen the main caps to drop the crank a little.
                              I can do it on my back, under the car in about 3 hours.

                              Good luck. Sid

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