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  • Questions on first machine repaint

    I finally have time to completely tear down my little Craftsman 109 lathe. I am going to use it for turning pens only and i am aware of its limits. I have been browsing the forum on paint removal and have found many different ways for many different types of paint. I do not know what type of paint was used on this machine but i dont want to get involved with industrial strippers and caustic chemicals. My local home depot has the CitriStrip aerosol and gel, Zep 505, Zep industrial purple and Zep heavy duty citrus cleaner. The machine has had all of the crud allready removed from it leaving some light rust spots and the remaining paint from the wire brush. Which of these products would work best for cleaning the parts on this lathe. Any advice on the listed products woud be great.
    Thanks, Chris

  • #2
    eBay style: Just repaint it, make sure to cover everything :P
    Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.

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    • #3
      The trouble with using chemical strippers is neutralising them before repainting. Castings often have porous surfaces and some of the old filler materials just seem to soak up stripper without even going soft!

      I mostly scraped the paint off my Harrison (using a cheap and slightly blunt scraper), using wire brushes and surfacing pads for the rest.

      I used a 2 pack paint (Selemix system) with about a 3 hour pot life, but hard cured 6 hours later.
      Paul Compton
      www.morini-mania.co.uk
      http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru

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      • #4
        I really appreciate the responses. For as little as the machine is, I think the wire brush may be the way to go. It will probably take longer but I'm in no rush to get it finished up and I don't have to worry about cleaning the chemicals off and possible rusting. All of the small parts should be no problem with a few small wire wheels, and the bed casting pretty much has all of the paint off it allready from removing the crud.
        Thanks, Chris

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        • #5
          Have a look In the painting isle at the hardware store for draw scrapers. I have a few with flat and triangular replaceable carbide ends. Using long slow strokes, draw scrape anything that will come off. If it doesn't come off, just scuff sand it. Surface prep, fill, sand, then get on with the business of putting down light coats.

          Careful with the wire brush. It's easy to accidentally round off the edge of a surface. Wire brushes seem to melt and smear the old paint in some spots, while flinging lead into the air where it does come off. If possible, slower speeds are better. Cheap brushes will make your belly look like a robot porcupine.

          If the old paint is on hard enough that you have to fight to get it off, why not leave it?

          BTW, when evenly dulled up a bit, those draw scrapers are great for peeling off heavy surface rust on machines. Sharpened up properly, they are very handy for heavy first passes scraping in a surface.

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          • #6
            Just an additional piece of info, many machines were finished using filler on the cast iron for a smooth surface. If you clean to bare metal you'll have a difficult time getting back to an original-looking surface. Some of the better restorations I've seen were just cleaned and sanded for adhesion before painting.

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            • #7
              Thoroughly clean the existing paint with mild solvent or soap and water. If the existing paint is sound scuff it up with ScotchBrite and prime over it. Bare patches and bare metal wire brush and prime to build. Finish coat with an alkyd machine enamel in a standard color for ease of touch-up.

              Rant: Remember you're painting a machine tool. When it's used properly the paint may be damaged. That's OK. It's not a show sar or even lawn furniture. Iit''s a working tool. Rant off.

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              • #8
                None of the paint is flaking off so it could very well just be scuffed up with Scotch-Brite primered and painted. I wasnt sure how the paint would appear if the remaining spots of original paint were not removed. The original paint is very thin and should not be a problem but I dont know for sure. The new paint might just "level" right over it. I purchased the Rustoleum professional red primer, not sure if there is a difference between the red or gray primers but the red will let me see if I missed any spots. Then I have some Rustoleum professional dark machine gray to finish coat it which seems to hide alot from some of the other things I have finished with it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Chris165 View Post
                  Rustoleum professional dark .
                  now there's an oxymoron

                  it might be ok for a light lathe like this but I've had no luck with that product; might be ok for garden furniture but machine tools are tough on paint. coolant and chips take their toll.

                  my current experiment is B&M porch and floor paint in a blue gray (you get any colour you want). One of the few enamels still available in local stores, quality brand and I figure (translate hope) floor paint should be tough stuff.

                  I'll check back in a few years and let you know
                  Last edited by Mcgyver; 12-09-2012, 02:53 PM.
                  .

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                  • #10
                    I finished cleaning all of the main parts of the lathe yesterday. The ZEP Industrial Citrus Degreaser worked wonderful on cleaning and removing the paint. I put the parts in a metal trough and sprayed them with the cleaner concentrate straight out of the bottle. Waited about 30-45 minutes and used a small hand brush and the paint came right off. Some of the parts were aluminum and the cleaner did not damage them. After they were cleaned, I primered them and topcoated with some John Deere Gray excavator paint I had. This paint should hold up alot better. My goal for this lathe is to have it set up strictly for pen turning so hopefully it will not see alot of oil.

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                    • #11
                      +1 for Mcgyver on trying floor paint. That was the cheapest durable paint i could find and Home Depot has it for 25 ish a gallon. Its what ill be trying on my Van Norman mill from flylo.

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                      • #12
                        I used automotive acrylic with hardener about 6-7 years ago. It holds up to oils, cleaners and even lacquer thinner for an occational wipe down. The only sign of wear is on the forward carriage legs (above the carriage wheel) where all the curly razor blades fly around. It stays oiled enough not to rust there and stays shiny cast iron from use.



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                        • #13
                          As the OP no doubt found, the paint on those 109s is about as easy to get off as any. I suspect it's water-based, as it's the only paint that Evaporust removes.
                          I've rebuilt 3 109s. I use automotive engine enamel on them.

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