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  • #16
    Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post
    Richard's explanation is as I thought, thanks.

    I'm still left wondering how 1200's is going to use TT's moglice set up for turcite. Can't see it. Robert, you're suggesting the glue has enough gap filling ability that somehoe glue and turcite will accurately fill the void? What then holds the turcite firmly against the mating bearing surface? Have you used turcite and had success that way?

    1200, if you want to go that route, and I agree it has appeal, why wouldn't you go moglice instead of turcite?
    Mine was not a Moglice setup - I used Turcite and it works because the gap is machined to the correct value to allow for the Turcite plus bond layer.....
    TexasTurnado

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    • #17
      I scrape Turcite differently...

      Instead of a push scraper, I use a pull scraper. This was made from a length of O-1, bent at 90°, and then fully hardened - it is honed to razor sharpness and, for me at least, gives much better control than a push scraper:



      The notches are there to give a better view of the scraping, and to clear the sharp edge of a dovetail.
      TexasTurnado

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      • #18
        Both methods work. I have used both and because I was taught to scrape forward, I push and lift out or stay in, depends on how tired I am.. As I say in my DVD, I don't care how you scrape..push, pull...as long as you can get the same results in the same amount of time...but I have a student teacher in Taiwan who can do both...he average 50 points. A lot better then needed. I would post a picture of it, but I have't figured out how on here yet.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Richard King View Post
          I would post a picture of it, but I have't figured out how on here yet.
          Rich, email me the picture and I'll post it.

          John: the pull scraper sounds intriguing for Turcite. It tends to grab the blade and dig-in. I'll have to try that...
          "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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          • #20
            From Rich:

            "We made one [a hook scraper] out of a round bar with a bike handle bar grip and drilled a hole in the end where we attached a 3/4" x 6" Biax power scraper blade."







            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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            • #21
              That is Ted one of my assistant teachers in Taichung Taiwan where I taught scraping classes at PMC, a Government and Machine Industry Research Center. Please note the tables we made for the class...They were adjustable height. I taught Ted to scrape using my methods, He had scraped the Japanese way prior. We used that length hook scraper and also made one with a 24" handle with worked pretty good too. We counted those points when he was down and he averaged 50 points. He scraped another and got 60 points. He also scraped some cast iron straight-edges with the Biax and got 60 points. He was a athlete too, he had played semi pro baseball so his eye hand coordination was amazing. If I ever figure out how to attach more pictures I can show you some machines PMC designed so we could teach scraping cast iron ways, Turcite coated ways and linear guide ways that each student scraped in the class. I had 2 assistant teachers (I taught to scrape) that helped me teach 12 students in a week. I taught 20 weeks of inside PMC classes and 8 weeks of plant tours were we worked as a process engineers to improve their machine building techniques. It was an amazing time. :-)
              Last edited by Richard King; 12-27-2012, 07:50 PM.

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              • #22
                Rich,

                I can see the raised turcite burrs in the photos above. I don't remember how you removed the burrs in the class I attended. Did you just stone them like the cast iron or is there another method?
                Cheers,
                Gary

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                • #23
                  First thing is we clean it with the glass cleaner or it plugs the sand paper, use the edge of the "Biax Control Gage or over in Taiwan they made there own gage, to gently slide along the part to get the majority of the fuzz burr, Finally we use the sharpening stone wrapped with 300 grit sand paper to gently sand off the fuzz burrs.

                  We were experimenting to see how close and how many PPI we could get (points per inch). On all machines we shoot for 20 PPI with 50% (POP) Percentage of contact. We measured the depth and it averaged .002" deep.

                  Gary did you attend the Dallas Class? I wonder if there would be any renewed interest in having another one next year?
                  Last edited by Richard King; 12-27-2012, 10:56 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Does the glue you use require a minimum thickness for maximum strength?

                    Putting the turcite directly on the part means the glue is less then optimum thickness and thus strength...
                    Precision takes time.

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                    • #25
                      The epoxy has glass beads in it to maintain a minimum gap of .003" But I have used it to fill old oil grooves that were 1/16" deep. The secret to the glue is cleaning the iron, sweating out the oil, sand basting scratching the surface as the Moglice people say that when you look at it our eyeballs bleed. I use the epoxy that the company recommends.

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                      • #26
                        Ahh OK we cannot get the waylock glue down here...
                        Precision takes time.

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                        • #27
                          I have also used this product for years and it doesn't have the beads. I have always estimated it at .005" thick when making my calculations.
                          http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666--

                          I also see : http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/porta...=1258562046069

                          I also talked with Tri-Star who sell Rulon and they told me , and I have hd good luck using this too

                          Loctite
                          #38050 - Black Max® Instant Adhesive 380™, 1 oz Bottle


                          For engineering information as far a shear strength contact:
                          Richard Cedrone Chemical and Apprication Engineer for Tri Star Plastics. I have talked to him several times and he goes to Japan, Korea and Taiwan to show mfg's how to use his products.

                          [email protected]
                          Last edited by Richard King; 12-28-2012, 11:57 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Richard King View Post
                            Gary did you attend the Dallas Class? I wonder if there would be any renewed interest in having another one next year?
                            Yes, Gary was in the Dallas class! Yes, we'd love to have an advanced class Rich!
                            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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                            • #29
                              Hard to remember everyone. I remember you, you're hard to forget.....lol
                              in a good way...LOL

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Richard King View Post
                                Gary did you attend the Dallas Class? I wonder if there would be any renewed interest in having another one next year?
                                Yes, I attend the Dallas/Arlington Class. I would really like to attend an advanced class, if my schedule would allow it. Learning is life and your teaching is as good as it gets.
                                Cheers,
                                Gary

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