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  • Kerney & Trecker horizontal mill

    So I bought a K&T Milwaukee #1A horizontal mill today, $300! Runs like a champ, nice tight ways etc. I got the over arms and yolk, but no arbor, does any one know what the collet, taper size is? Any info on these units? Its quite a chunk of iron! Looking forward to start making chips with it.

    Any info would be great.

    Thanks
    Last edited by dmschmidt1200; 03-03-2013, 09:12 PM. Reason: mis type

  • #2
    Check Ebay, I say one a week or 2 ago, but not sure of the model.
    Last edited by flylo; 03-03-2013, 08:47 PM.
    "Let me recommend the best medicine in the
    world: a long journey, at a mild season, through a pleasant
    country, in easy stages."
    ~ James Madison

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    • #3
      Should be a National Machine Taper. 3-1/2" per inch of taper IIRC. Some but not all will have either set screws in the tangs on an angle to the spindle centerline or tapped holes in the face of the spindle for mounting slab mills. The K&T should have a drawbar that passes thruogh the spindle.
      Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

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      • #4
        There are some K&T manuals on the NEMES site:

        http://neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books/K&T/
        Errol Groff

        New England Model Engineering Society
        http://neme-s.org/

        YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/GroffErrol?feature=mhee

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        • #5
          I think the 1B is a 40 taper. Make an arbor out of an endmill holder. If you want a 1.25 arbor, a very popular size, get a 1" endmill holder, buy a quality piece of ground stock with the key slot already in it, and turn an end down to a nice fit and mill a flat for set screws. The other end needs a nut for holding on the spacers and cutter, left hand thread preferred. Many, and I mean many, of the horizontal arbors on Ebay are bent, and making one is not difficult.
          James Kilroy

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          • #6
            Thanks for the quick reply guys, i need to start buying some tooling!

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            • #7
              You may be able to get all the tooling you want for cheap for Jeff @ Tools4Cheap.net, as he carries a lot of it new and had plently of used stuff.

              http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=32

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              • #8
                Back up a bit. You said model 1A? This machine has a single round overarm correct? If so its a way old machine probably 20's or earlier. It should have a Brown & Sharpe taper spindle likely #10.

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                • #9
                  Keith Fenner bought a KT horizontal and restored it, payed 300$ for it just like you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kANvdzoVUfw , he shares some ancient photos of him restoring it like 20 years ago.

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                  • #10
                    Congratulations, K&T made really good stuff. Once you use it you will know why John Stevenson calls his BP a POS.

                    You should definitely double check the spindle taper before you buy tooling. I don't like to direct anyone away from this site, but in this case I suggest you go to to the Cincinnati, Kearny and Trecker, USA Heavy Iron sub forum at Practical Machinist and post the serial number. One of the experts that post over there will be able to give you a bit more info on your machine. They like pictures almost as much as we do here (subtle hint).

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jkilroy View Post
                      I think the 1B is a 40 taper. Make an arbor out of an endmill holder. If you want a 1.25 arbor, a very popular size, get a 1" endmill holder, buy a quality piece of ground stock with the key slot already in it, and turn an end down to a nice fit and mill a flat for set screws. The other end needs a nut for holding on the spacers and cutter, left hand thread preferred. Many, and I mean many, of the horizontal arbors on Ebay are bent, and making one is not difficult.
                      Hey, that's a good tip. I've got a 30 taper mill and those arbors are hard to find, and as you noted, not all that straight. I'll have to make some up as you suggested. Thanks. Ed P

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jkilroy View Post
                        I think the 1B is a 40 taper. Make an arbor out of an endmill holder. If you want a 1.25 arbor, a very popular size, get a 1" endmill holder, buy a quality piece of ground stock with the key slot already in it, and turn an end down to a nice fit and mill a flat for set screws. The other end needs a nut for holding on the spacers and cutter, left hand thread preferred. Many, and I mean many, of the horizontal arbors on Ebay are bent, and making one is not difficult.
                        its curious these vendors do that, isn't ebay pretty quick to take the buyers side of things?

                        I've always been able to get 40 taper abors in good shape for a good price, practical machinists is one source, such that it wouldn't be worth making them. A hybrid approach might be this. First buy an ebay one. If its not bent, the matter ends there.....if it is, make one as jk describes and use the spacers from the bent one. They won't be bent and are a heck of alot work and material to make....and must be dead on else the cutter won't be perpendicular to the arbor.
                        .

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                        • #13
                          I cant post pics but it appears to be a 1A with double arms, the serial # is 27-1011. The only info I can find is maybe built late 20's?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by dmschmidt1200 View Post
                            I cant post pics but it appears to be a 1A with double arms, the serial # is 27-1011. The only info I can find is maybe built late 20's?
                            Lot serial number 1011 would make it 1925.

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                            • #15
                              So with a build date of '25, what taper would you think it is? #10 B&S or 40.

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