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  • garyhlucas
    replied
    Originally posted by becksmachine View Post
    Probably the major difference is that there is no "fine atomizing" of the liquid if the Hench unit is adjusted properly.

    As I said, they will operate on as little as 2-5 psi air pressure so the great majority of liquid ends up deposited on the surfaces it is aimed at. Even at this low pressure it seems to penetrate the cutting zone effectively and provide cooling and lubrication.

    The major drawback to this system may be that the nozzle works best when positioned close to the cutting zone, making it vulnerable to long, stringy chips, as when using a twist drill.

    Just explaining my experience, YMMV.

    Dave
    Isn't this a CNC group? Use a peck or chip break cycle when drilling. Long stringy chips are hazardous even without the coolant nozzle.

    Gary H. Lucas

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  • becksmachine
    replied
    Originally posted by Boucher View Post
    What is the difference between Hench and Bjur? I still maintain these are 10 X better than the venturi type that atomize the coolant.
    Probably the major difference is that there is no "fine atomizing" of the liquid if the Hench unit is adjusted properly.

    As I said, they will operate on as little as 2-5 psi air pressure so the great majority of liquid ends up deposited on the surfaces it is aimed at. Even at this low pressure it seems to penetrate the cutting zone effectively and provide cooling and lubrication.

    The major drawback to this system may be that the nozzle works best when positioned close to the cutting zone, making it vulnerable to long, stringy chips, as when using a twist drill.

    Just explaining my experience, YMMV.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Boucher
    replied
    What is the difference between Hench and Bjur? I still maintain these are 10 X better than the venturi type that atomize the coolant. As for smoke/fog in the shop if you put oil on metal that is above 400°F you are going to get smoke. How much is just determined by how much and how hot. Breathing smoke and breathing cool mist are much different for me.

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  • becksmachine
    replied
    Originally posted by radkins View Post
    I think after reading up on these things I am having second thoughts about using one mainly due to the problem of fogging up the shop.
    I had the same problem until I found the units made by Hench. They work with as little as 2-5 psi. I recommend them highly.

    Usual "no affiliation" disclaimer.

    http://www.fogbuster.com/

    Dave

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  • quadrod
    replied
    As far as fogging up the shop goes, If you are getting fog then you are flowing way to much coolant. When i am using mine i turn the coolant flow down to the point that i just see a few droplets form on the work or on my finger. As SGW says, the cool air does most of the work, it's not about using tons of coolant.

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  • bosox
    replied
    I have coolant system only on my band saws. Soluable oil is a great purpose coolant.

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  • SGW
    replied
    I have a Bijur Fluid-Flex unit. It runs on about 30-35 psi. Although expensive, I don't particularly recommend the Bijur.

    Bijur's directions say there should be no visible mist. The cooling comes from the refrigeration effect of the coolant evaporating into the airstream, and the cold air is what does the cooling. If you stick your finger in the airstream and slowly open the coolant valve you can feel the sudden drop in air temperature when the coolant starts flowing and evaporating. The coolant valve should be open to the point that a few small drops of coolant should condense out on your thumbnail if you hold it in the airstream. So says Bijur.

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  • radkins
    replied
    I think after reading up on these things I am having second thoughts about using one mainly due to the problem of fogging up the shop. I will be working in a relatively small area and significant ventilation would only be practical during warm weather so maybe this is not the system I need. The problem is I bought a Seig mini mill that has a DRO that uses the digital caliper type scales that are not coolant proof and there seems to be no practical method of mounting them that would keep them dry. I have to wonder about the accuracy of these things anyway so I might just scrap them and go to a flood type system.

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  • Boucher
    replied
    My Mister

    A 10" water filter housing makes a good starting point. A piece of 3/4" pvc pipe is a tight slip fit on the center spigot and makes an easy coolant pick up. I use a ball valve (for quick on and off) and a needle valve (for fine adjustment) on both the air line and coolant line. An air regulator is used on the incoming air line to drop pressure to aproximately 10 psi. This assures that the air and coolant are delivered at the same pressure. Turning the coolant ball valve off first helps when you need to fiddle with something else and don't want the extry oil when you are not actually cutting.



    The nozzle end is more difficult to construct so that it works properly.


    the basic concept is that the oil is injected downstream of the air inlet which carries the oil down a larger tube and recombines it in droplets near the injector tip. I back drilled a mig nozzle and soldered it to a small copper tube to do this. The dimensions that Bjur uses are contained in their patten. I would really like to know how their mixing valve works. The Magic Arm camera mount works well for positioning the nozzle where you want it.
    This system is 10 X better than the venturi type misters but it still results in smoke when you are taking heavy cuts. I mostly run WD 40 for the nice finish on Aluminum. I have used the water solubles for steel but mostly revert back to the brush or the squirt can. I have two roll up doors to venelate the shop. The fog from the venturi type misters was literally making me ill.

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  • rmuell01
    replied
    I use this one from Ebay .
    works on my grinder. plan to make a couple more.

    Leave a comment:


  • radkins
    replied
    quadrod, Thanks for the pics and the info, now I have a new project for the weekend!
    Last edited by radkins; 03-14-2013, 09:50 AM.

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  • radkins
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcgyver View Post
    there are some good threads here if you do a search.

    I tried that first, I love this site but since the change the search feature is nothing but an exercise in frustration, basically worthless.



    :EDIT: Well I tried the search function again (searched "mister" same as yesterday and it brought up results this time. Yesterday all it would do is bring up the usual "Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms".
    Last edited by radkins; 03-14-2013, 09:51 AM.

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  • quadrod
    replied
    I got the brass tubes from an RC hobby shop, found a small tube that fit inside the large tube, pressurized air flow out the inner tube and coolant flows out the outer tube. Air pressure is supplied to the filter housing and regulated down to 10-15psi, coolant is picked up in a hose that runs to the bottom of the filter housing and flows into the mister block and is regulated by an adjustable needle valve. I made all the hose nipples and the needle valve, used an oring from a faucet repair kit from the hardware store.
    http://s157.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=3&o=0

    http://s157.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=3&o=1

    http://s157.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=3&o=0

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  • Mcgyver
    replied
    there are some good threads here if you do a search. its worse than not having one if it just fogs the shops....iirc key's to not having it fog are pressurized coolant and nozzle size

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  • radkins
    replied
    Originally posted by digr View Post
    Can you post some pics of the mister?
    I was just about to ask the same thing.

    Leave a comment:

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