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  • Off the wall idea

    I figured before thinking about this too much I should ask here if my idea is worth pursuing or if I am being too off the wall.

    As some may know Im going to install a R8 spindle from LMS to get the home made mill working again (thats to all for the line boring idea's) and wondered if I could make a "surface grinder adapter" to stick on this. Here is my idea (and feel free to tell me if Im whacked lol)

    My idea is to use a R8 taper shaft with a 45 deg gear, then have that drive another 45 gear to do a 90 deg turn. This would drive the shaft that would hold a grinding wheel. I want to make the assembly such that I can just botl it up to the existing mill head, stick the draw bar in and have a surface grinder setup. I have seen 90 heads for mills (my buddy has 6) and it would sure make the thing more versatile.

    Not sure of the finer details yet, like what speed to run it or if the gears need to be in an oil bath, just wondering if im too far out in left field on this idea. What do you all think

  • #2
    My knowledge on grinding is about where yours is, but here would be my concern looking for a more knowledgeable answer... Running a grinding spindle via gears would make for poor surface finish, would it not? Vibrations seem to be a major concern for grinding spindles and, to my understanding, one reason grinding machines are so heavily built.

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    • #3
      i would never grind on my lathes or my mill. hell, i even hard turned the chuck on my big lathe. if i grind, i do it in a separate room and close it off with curtains.

      if you want to grind on the mill, no need for a 90° head, get an angle plate. you will also need to get the surface speed right (around 3000 meters/min).

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      • #4
        OK, glad I checked as I figured the speed would be a problem. As stated, just an idea I was kicking around as I really dont have the floor space to make another machine (still trying to figure out where I will put the brake when I get it rebuilt). Guess I should just stick to the project at hand and get the mill working, then I can start on the brake and decide what the hell im going to do with it (its a HF break/roller/shear and useless for anything over tin foil thickness). Would like to rebuild it with hydraulics so it can actually bend something useful.

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        • #5
          Arthur has the vibration issue about right, there's good practice behind surface grinder spindles being belt driven, plus they use bearings from the very top shelf...
          Another problem will be obtaining a fine enough feed, surface grinders have the downfeed calibrated in 0.0001" / 0.005mm increments and the operator can usually split those into smaller increments - surface grinding is about repeatable micron accuracy and finish quality, not metal removal!
          On top of that, table traverse is way faster than normal on a mill, feet per second rather than inches, so you'd need either a way to disengage the table feedscrew or a high-speed reversing power feed setup (perhaps automated with limit !switches?).
          Then there's grinding itself - it will cover your mill in fine abrasive dust, accelerating wear...

          So, not a definite "don't do it", but be aware of the requirements if you're planning a modification, they may prove a bit of a challenge!

          Dave H. (the other one)
          Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men.

          Holbrook Model C Number 13 lathe, Testa 2U universal mill, bikes and tools

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          • #6
            The problems I fore see, lack of needed rpm speed and grit from the grinder, have already been addressed. If space is the problem, make the grinder portable so it can be moved outside so the grit doesn't get all over the other tools. How about having a pedestal mounted grinder on three casters for easy movement. Have a flat plate mounted in the ground outside with three hole into which the casters will drop and the base of the pedestal will be flat against the base plate. You won't then be "chasing" your portable grinder when in use. When done, pull casters out of hole and roll it back to its storage place.
            Bill

            Being ROAD KILL on the Information Super Highway and Electronically Challenged really SUCKS!!

            Every problem can be solved through the proper application of explosives, duct tape, teflon, WD-40, or any combo of the aforementioned items.

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            • #7
              Well thanks all for the input, as its clear it would be fun to try, but not really practical. I sure want to get the mill working well and dont want to complicate or cause issues down the road. Its really nice to have a place to ask questions (sometimes really dumb ones) and get great feedback. Have learned a lot here in my short time and thank all for taking the time to help me learn as I go you guys are the best

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Hopefuldave View Post
                Another problem will be obtaining a fine enough feed, surface grinders have the downfeed calibrated in 0.0001" / 0.005mm increments and the operator can usually split those into smaller increments - surface grinding is about repeatable micron accuracy and finish quality, not metal removal!
                Sure it is an accurate machine when needed, but most of the machines will take heavy cuts, the usual limit is the attachment of the workpiece. Have many times taken 0.1 mm deep cuts on a Johansson surface grinder with a 50 mm wide wheel to rough out things, but the limit starts to really be the amount of cooling needed so that everything stays safe.

                On the other end of the spectrum I can easily shave off stuff in 0.001 mm increments with the machine if needs be.

                And sometimes the surface finish isn't required, but it is easier to shave off those 0.01 mm increments from a plate with a grinder than a milling machine.
                Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.

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