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  • Labeling

    I would like to get some advice on labeling in the shop. I have a couple of plastic boxes with drawers for holding taps, dies, fasteners, reamers, etc. So far I've just printed out the label and scotch taped it to the front. Doesn't stay on, readability is not great, although I can change the label without too much trouble. I was wondering what others used in their shops. Lots of smart guys here, I'm sure lots of good ideas.

    Ed P

  • #2
    I use a Brother TZ label printer
    great little printer and labels are waterproof easy to read and stick well
    Lots of colours available and backgrounds but I use yellow labels with black text

    But sometimes i use a sharpie



    • #3
      I have a small hand operated Dyno that presses the letters in to a plastic strip that has adhesive on the back. The letters appear as white text, as the plastic is stretched by the embossed letters. Blue and red labels are quite easy to read.
      Amount of experience is in direct proportion to the value of broken equipment.


      • #4
        I use a variety of techniques.

        I use sheets of adhesive labels and print on them using a CAD or drawing program OR EXCEL. Excel is good because after you set up a template for a sheet, you can use formulae references to a list that is easy to change and save for later use. I use that technique for my file folder labels as I print a new set each year. I like to use label stock with a permanent adhesive for shop use.

        I use an old Dymo labeler.

        I use folded cardboard labels for the small plastic drawers. They can form bin like holders as well as a label. This can help keep small, flat parts from migrating under the plastic dividers. Again I use a CAD program or Excel to print them. I use a dot matrix printer and card stock (index cards) for these. The pins of the printer strike the fold lines and weaken them just a bit so it is easy to fold on them. Lines for cutting are a bit bolder. I use a cutting mat, steel ruler with cork backing, and hobby knift (Exacto) for cutting them out. A matching small label is also printed for the drawer front. These are usually just inserted into the slots. I use a fold there also to make it a bit thicker so it has some friction to stay put better.

        For metal drawers (tool boxes) I like to make magnetic backed labels (like refrigerator magnets). You can buy rolls of magnetic backed material with adhesive on the front about one inch wide at hobby stores and paste labels on the front.

        As you may notice, I like to use easily movable labels where I can. This comes from years of storing and labeling small electronic parts at work. No matter how well you plan, there is always a new part that needs to be placed between two existing ones and movable labels are a great time saver here. I only used non-movable labels where they can not be avoided.
        Paul A.

        Make it fit.
        You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!


        • #5
          I use white self-stick paper shipping labels that I got from an employer when we moved and all the old labels became waste. I cut them to size and stick them on. I write the contents with a big fat sharpie. If it changes, I stick a new label on top of the old one.

          Low tech, but easy and cheap.


          • #6
            I put a sample into the pull handle of plastic bins so I can see at a glance what is in them, no need to tap, the plastic drills easy and the screws cut new threads. For washers I tie them to a bit of wire and wire them onto the handle.


            • #7
              I often hot melt items to the front of the plastic drawer to identify the contents. It's easy to remove when no longer needed. Bob.


              • #8
                I also have Brother label maker and I got it because the labels are supposedly resistant to some(if not all) chemicals.

                I usually cover the labels with a wide piece of thick, transparent packing tape for good measure(and of course I degrease everything before I try to stick anything on it...).


                • #9
                  That should get me started, thanks for the ideas!

                  Ed P