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  • Originally posted by plunger View Post

    To do this how do you work the offset out. How do you go about this.?
    I turned the .787 diameter in stock larger then the finished parts, they were then placed in a Bridgeport mill with a right angle head and offset centers were drilled,
    The offset diameter was finished between centers back in the lathe, this is faster then offsetting 12 parts in a 4 jaw chuck one at a time as they have no features that are indexed to the offset.

    If only 1 part is required just offset the part held in a 4 jaw using a dial indicator, this is slow but accurate.

    I do the same with these parts but turn them with indexing saddles attached because there are key ways milled at a particular radial position after turning.


    • Made some pins for some log trams, little ones are 1-1/2" and the bigger ones are 2"-
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      Then I made an adapter so I can use some old Toledo clam shell threading dies in our Rigid threader at work-
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      Then used it to thread some 1" hot rolled tie bars for some crane outrigger pads-
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      I just need one more tool,just one!


      • Originally posted by madman View Post
        Well haven't been on the site much but this new redesigned website makes even me capable of posting Pictures. I been making some M300 steel Jackshafts, latest Garage project. Here's some Pics. I tried the make your own Tool Cutters as Per Mr John Stevenson (Rest In Piece Sir you are Missed) and from Mikes Workshop But I couldn't get them to cut very well. Anyhow Got some done. Had to make a custom Indexer Plate also for my rapidex. The Gear to spline fit came out within about a .001 or maybe even .002 but was very nice and snug. Hopefully doesn't
        snap of immediately, its going on a 3 cylinder 1500 cc triple Two Stroke .
        What type of ThunderCat Drag or Mountain?


        • made an extended tool holder for when I make a spacer block to turn my Atlas 618 into an Atlas 1618!

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          • Took a break from machining some 1.5" torch cut a36 plates to make this little go/nogo pin for a checking fixture. Needed a square internal corner, and the go/nogo profile was +/-0.05mm. Thought about WEDM with stacked plates and dowels like we normally do, but took a gamble and tried something I've wanted to for a long time. Broke the profile into a separate 3/6" insert pin at the square corner and drilled the offset hole before hardening both then hardmilling to size. Held a few tenths on size and it worked out really good, I can't wait to use this method again.

            This pic shows the 2d cad layout I used to figure it out and program. Big pin od is 1/2" for scale. Little pin is 3/16" is just loctited in a nice light press fit. Both pins are torch hardened O1.

            With a little help from my Stevenson er32 collet block of course.

            I had to make a block to hold the big pin and index of a flat already ground on it for orientation in the fixture. Just a reamed hole through a piece of 6061 with a chunk machined out of the back for a small parallel to contact both the flat and the back vise jaw. I've got a few blocks like this kicking around I've made over the years for various sizes of pins etc, but always seem to have to make a new one every once in a while because none of them will work for the pin I'm doing.

            I really need to get a new phone with a better camera.....

            Back to the big stuff tomorrow.


            • At Habitat we use these split ring pipe supports:

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              The rod is all-thread, cut to length. I made a vise to hold the rod while being cut with an angle grinder or portable band saw:

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              There's a threaded rod between the bottom jaw and the cam lever. The tricky part is that there is a very narrow range of adjustment in the closed position between too loose and too tight. Tricky because 1 turn of the cam on the rod changes the jaw opening way too much. I have a very nice solution to this, totally by accident. This is rev 2 and rev 1 had a 7/16-14 rod with a knob to tighten. 7/16 was too big for the lever, so I made a hybrid with 7/16 in the bottom jaw and 5/16-18 in the lever. This gave me a differential screw of 1/(1/14 - 1/16) = 112 tpi (0.009 pitch) for very fine adjustment. The rod/screw is slotted for a screwdriver and is accessible from the bottom.


              • Start to first article.

                Lovely ABS parts.
                Make soft jaws and install them.

                Chuck parts and bang them out (-:

                Repeat 1098 times, I can't drink enough to make this fun.


                • I am making a special box used for some baking operation. 1/8" hot rolled plate. All the parts cut on a Roll-In bandsaw to a 1/32" tolerance. Now when it quits raining I will weld it together.


                  • Finally finished this job today. Very proud of it, but very ready for it to be over.

                    Made every single facet of this job. The parts, the fixtures, and even the gear shaping tools. Adding to the already existing complexities of VERY tight tolerances, was materials, sizing, and feature orientations. ( 13-8 Stainless in HRC 45-47 condition ) This was an incredibly challenging job.


                    • Wow. I think that says it all Zahnrad.
                      At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

                      Location: SF East Bay.


                      • Originally posted by Zahnrad Kopf View Post
                        Finally finished this job today. Very proud of it, ... This was an incredibly challenging job.
                        Nice work ... you should be proud of it! The more challenging the job, the more satisfying its completion. Without challenges, work is boring.


                        • dayum! Those look like something you'd find in a clock. Truly beautiful work, I hope it will end up in a position where people can admire it.

                          I'm guessing the rotab+motor was to grind a bit of dish in that carbide (?) gear cutter to give it some front rake? Very neat.


                          • Click image for larger version

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ID:	1853096 Here's a photo of my current project. It's the "Radial Click image for larger version

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ID:	1853097 " published in the Home Shop Machinist. The crankcase is almost finished. The capscrews are 2-56 x 1/4"
                            I cut it off twice; it's still too short
                            Oregon, USA


                            • Originally posted by mattthemuppet View Post
                              dayum! Those look like something you'd find in a clock. Truly beautiful work, I hope it will end up in a position where people can admire it.
                              I'm guessing the rotab+motor was to grind a bit of dish in that carbide (?) gear cutter to give it some front rake? Very neat.
                              Thanks guys. The prints do not specifically say where they go, but some deductive reasoning, combined with experience tells me that once installed, will never be seen by human eyes again. All I can safely say is that it is military.

                              Ironically our very own JHE.1973 has tried to convince me that I am capable of making my own watch despite my stellar failures to grasp some elements of the movement. My goal has always been to be able to make my own Involute geared pocket watch, using generated Involutes. My assertion is that my generated Involutes should be smoother running and much more accurate than the methods that most use to cut their wheels. I feel that I have finally gotten to the point that I am very comfortable with the design & creation of the tools required to do so, & the generating of such small, Fine Pitch gears. I still fail to grasp some of the finer design points of the movement, though.

                              Nice crankcase Tim!

                              EDIT - oops, yes. That is indeed what the rotary grinding fixture is for, and does.
                              Last edited by Zahnrad Kopf; 02-03-2020, 12:00 PM.


                              • Nice work as always Zahnrad.

                                Tim, if you hadn't said they were #2-56 I would have guessed #8-32, maybe #6-32, but not #2-56. I didn't pick up that sense of scale from the drill cabinet. That's pretty impressive. Looking forward to seeing the finished result, and the progress along the way.