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  • Finished the twin LED spindle/quill light and the digital readout for same. Second LED I made for it and mounted on the quill instead of the head, much better. Super happy with the amount of light since I machine by eye. No DRO yet. Lights and digital scale came from eBay. Cheers!
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    • Originally posted by vectorwarbirds View Post
      Finished the twin LED spindle/quill light and the digital readout for same. Second LED I made for it and mounted on the quill instead of the head, much better. Super happy with the amount of light since I machine by eye. No DRO yet. Lights and digital scale came from eBay. Cheers!
      Pics
      Attached Files

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      • Made parts in the morning, my employer asked me to measure the taper on a shaft in the afternoon.
        How do you measure rust?

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        • Use your eyecrometer. Be here all week, folks. Try the fish.

          Nice granite.

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          • Originally posted by Zahnrad Kopf View Post
            Use your eyecrometer. Be here all week, folks. Try the fish.

            Nice granite.
            A guessometer is required in this case, the new impeller on the left was made in another country and looks like the bore was nibbled to size by trained badgers (-:

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            • I've got to sand down the kitchen worktops shortly so I used the excuse to buy a belt sander. Didn't spot that it has a non-standard (or at least not a standard that I have!) 25mm dust extraction port. Had a look at how much Makita wanted for one and it was something ludicrous like £30 or £40. So, still suffering from naivety, I set about the 5 minutes work it would take to whip one up. I wouldn't have done too badly had I not overshot the critical dimension for the taper which made it far too loose. I also realised I'd miscalculated the taper by using the diameter change instead of the radius change in my trig....but you live, you learn. Second attempt produced this that I'm fairly pleased with. The side facing away from you is an un-tapered cylinder that fits into my shop vac hose (that I previously bored) and the side facing you is a 22.6mm bore that tapers in by 1° (2° included angle). The flange is just so that it's possible to remove it from the hose when finished.



              There is much plastic ribbon-ry to clear up now

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              • Originally posted by Bented View Post
                Made parts in the morning, my employer asked me to measure the taper on a shaft in the afternoon.
                How do you measure rust?
                I imagine that the most accurate way is to mount it on V blocks. Then average out the slope by putting a flat plate or straightedge on the taper and then measure the slope using the table top as the reference surface. That will give you the slope, but not the diameter. Would that work?
                At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

                Location: SF East Bay.

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                • Originally posted by danlb View Post

                  I imagine that the most accurate way is to mount it on V blocks. Then average out the slope by putting a flat plate or straightedge on the taper and then measure the slope using the table top as the reference surface. That will give you the slope, but not the diameter. Would that work?
                  Yep, could even do that with the height gauge and some math.

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                  • Originally posted by nickel-city-fab View Post

                    Yep, could even do that with the height gauge and some math.
                    Just don't forget to halve the diameter difference before you put it through tan or you'll get twice the angle. Only a halfwit would forget to do that and then actually machine the part

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                    • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

                      Just don't forget to halve the diameter difference before you put it through tan or you'll get twice the angle. Only a halfwit would forget to do that and then actually machine the part
                      While we're on the subject of what halfwits would do: if you spin your change-gears by hand to check they aren't too closely meshed, it works fine for a 120 tooth gear....but by the time you get down to 80 teeth, it turns out you can't get the end of your finger out the way before it gets chewed.

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                      • Originally posted by danlb View Post

                        I imagine that the most accurate way is to mount it on V blocks. Then average out the slope by putting a flat plate or straightedge on the taper and then measure the slope using the table top as the reference surface. That will give you the slope, but not the diameter. Would that work?
                        I put a dial indicator on a v-block on the straight section, set stops for 1" of travel, slid the v-block and the indicator read .042"

                        .5/12 = .0416 so it is 1/2" taper per foot

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                        • Originally posted by Bented View Post

                          I put a dial indicator on a v-block on the straight section, set stops for 1" of travel, slid the v-block and the indicator read .042"

                          .5/12 = .0416 so it is 1/2" taper per foot
                          That sounds like a valid taper. How did you take the rust out of the equation? I can't tell if the area just to the right of the rust is the same as the rusted taper.
                          At the end of the project, there is a profound difference between spare parts and extra parts.

                          Location: SF East Bay.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by danlb View Post

                            That sounds like a valid taper. How did you take the rust out of the equation? I can't tell if the area just to the right of the rust is the same as the rusted taper.
                            This is an old part, all of the dimensions aside from the bearing journals are in whole <1/64 inch fractions. From this we can deduce that the taper is an inch taper per foot.
                            If measured within .002" over the rust it is almost certainly a whole fraction taper per foot. One of the beautiful things about old parts is that they are fractional for the most part, pre-CAD.

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                            • Originally posted by Bented View Post

                              This is an old part, all of the dimensions aside from the bearing journals are in whole <1/64 inch fractions. From this we can deduce that the taper is an inch taper per foot.
                              If measured within .002" over the rust it is almost certainly a whole fraction taper per foot. One of the beautiful things about old parts is that they are fractional for the most part, pre-CAD.
                              Yep, makes it easy to make an educated guess, especially if one is already familiar with the product line.

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                              • Changing the jaws in my Kurt mill vice was a pain. Four Allen screws. Easy to loosen them with a 3/8" L-Key. But then unscrewing them all the way...? If you open the jaws all the way you could use a 3/8" ball end Allen at an angle. I don't have one. I decided a very short straight Allen would be better. So I cut 3/4" off the long end of an 3/8" L-key. To make it easy to rotate I made a knob. Drilled the end of a 1/2" rod to with 27/64" bit, 1/2" deep. Knurled the rod 3/4" wide and parted off. Pressed the short Allen into the hole. Presto, a tool to quickly and easily remove and reinstall the screws.

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