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  • Came out well all things considered, between 3.992" and 3.993", I never considered the tenths on a lathe job.


    Began the mating part this afternoon, drill a 2" hole 11" thru to start. This was the largest drill we had that was the correct length.

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    • Well, I finally got the grinder light finished. Had to wait for an M10x1 tap as the "M10" thread on the gooseneck should imply it is metric course but it's actually the second preference for metric fine....so nothing that would be in a set. Then I found the male convertor for the other end wasn't long enough so I had to wait for an M10x1 die to finish that end. Currently I'm in for more than it would have cost to buy one - tell me anyone's surprised! - but I get to keep the taps and die that'll never be required again! Also, the goosenecks came as a pack of two so I could make another for the lathe for just the cost of another bulb.....and the time!



      Plastic case holds the transformer that used to be in the end of a 5W GU10 LED bulb. Designed and 3D printed it out of PETG



      The part between the gooseneck and the lamp was turned from aluminium and then milled and tapped M2.



      I've since simplified the design (in case I make another!) so the central bore is large enough that those three awkward (when you don't have a DRO) pockets become through slots. There's plenty of contact so that the aluminium acts as additional heatsink for the part from the original bulb. Chose this particular bulb as it's sealed and has a glass cover in front of the LED. Also, they get warm but not so warm you can't hold them - with the extra heatsinking (there's thermal grease between the LED panel and the housing) and the fact that it's not likely to be on for that long, it should be quite cool.

      So much better than it was before. Used to be like trying to work with a welding mask on the previous one was so dim!

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      • Bagan 8 parts this morning from 7" OD X 3/8" wall steel tubes that came cut 1/8" long from a tubing supplier.
        Face to 7 7/8" long and bore thru to 6.291-6.281", after putting the first part in the lathe I noticed that the bore had already been honed to a beautiful finish.
        Unfortunately the diameter was 6.300" already (-:
        Only 2 of the 8 were this way the rest were mill finish around 6.250" and cleaned up nicely.

        No shortage of lathe work for the next week or so.
        Have been on a manual lathe for the last 2 weeks and it is getting old. A new entry level 18 X 48 CNC lathe will be arriving in the next 2 weeks to replace a 25 year old ailing Bridgeport 15 X 36 lathe.
        Bented
        Senior Member
        Last edited by Bented; 03-31-2021, 06:14 PM.

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        • Another hydraulic manifold for the Engineering students. Same 15/16-16 internal thread so I was able to reuse my gauge from the previous piece.
          Click image for larger version

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          Illigitimi non Carborundum 😎
          9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade and 15.5 in refinery unit operations. Now retired. El Paso, TX

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          • This is a tap handle/wrench with an integrated guide for my G0704 mill. The tap holders come from an import hand tapper I picked up cheap at an auction Click image for larger version

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ID:	1938171 (and do not like at all). The shaft rides in an untightened collet or drill chuck and saves me 2” to 5” headroom on the mill, depending on which one I use.

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            • Milled the recess to hold in the hand-holes on one of two handles for a straightedge.... woodworking on the Benchmaster. Beats heck out of trying to use a router, or saw/rasp/sandpaper. Handles let it stand up, and they also keep your hot hands off the iron.

              Done to an outline, came out OK, without the pulley cover visibility is at least usable.
              3313 5160 4357 4344 3174 9120

              Keep eye on ball.
              Hashim Khan

              Everything not impossible is compulsory

              Birds are NOT real, they are spying on you

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              • Nasty 104 degree included V-Grooves, fortunately the material is 303.
                A larger version of this part.

                Does anyone here have a fast method of producing a V-Groove 1 1/6" wide X 9/16" deep with a sharp bottom, I am all ears (-:

                Bented
                Senior Member
                Last edited by Bented; 04-12-2021, 08:30 PM.

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                • Originally posted by Bented View Post
                  Does anyone here have a fast method of producing a V-Groove 1 1/6" wide X 9/16" deep with a sharp bottom, I am all ears (-:
                  Yeah, same as your customer.....I'd send it to you!

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                  • parting tool, groving tool, cut off the rest.

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                    • Exactly.
                      Parting tool leaves a flat at the bottom, this is roughing.

                      After finishing I went in with a form tool to create the sharp V at the bottom. Not fast.

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                      • Originally posted by Bented View Post
                        Nasty 104 degree included V-Grooves, fortunately the material is 303.
                        A larger version of this part.

                        Does anyone here have a fast method of producing a V-Groove 1 1/6" wide X 9/16" deep with a sharp bottom, I am all ears (-:
                        That part looks like a prime candidate for a cnc lathe with live tooling. Come in to that grove area at about a 45* angle with an end mill and rough out most of the material. Finish the profile with something like a DNMG style insert modified to get the sharp V bottom. ( Easier said than done, as I don't have a cnc lathe with live tooling ☹ )

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                        • It is a CNC lathe without live tooling.
                          Asking for a faster method was tongue in cheek, hence the ASCII smiley (-:
                          That operation took about 15 minutes for each part. All finished this afternoon, these parts present a good deal of metal removal from the 5" + diameter solid.

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                          • The fun begins on Monday

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                            • I want to see how the customer verifies the 32 RMS finish in the 0.626 bore.

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                              • Originally posted by lbender View Post
                                I want to see how the customer verifies the 32 RMS finish in the 0.626 bore.
                                They have no way of measuring such a feature so they don't. If it does not look like a drilled hole and the mating part fits it is called good.

                                The inability to measure a feature keeps no one from adding dimensions to a drawing.

                                This is only a section of the drawing, the part is over 34" long and the .969" +- .005 diameter to the 15 Deg. chamfer to .9843 diameter is 26" (-:
                                Bented
                                Senior Member
                                Last edited by Bented; 04-17-2021, 11:06 AM.

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