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  • Originally posted by Bented View Post

    Did you have to tap it?
    No, just knock a few thou off each side with a facmill. Shook that mini-mill to **** though. 5 thou was about all it could run "smoothly" with a 1.25" cutter.
    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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    • Originally posted by The Metal Butcher View Post

      Sounds like a gravy job.


      Inconel and Ti today at work. The Ti is a common repeat work, but the Inconel was a first for me. It was a fixture for the CMM guy that had zero reason to be Inconel, just what he "had". Go figure. I told him to buy some material next time.
      It was!
      Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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      • This is a flywheel for an old wood chipper that had destroyed the pilot bearing wiping out the bearing pocket. No replacement bearing or flywheel is available. The customer purchased a larger bearing requiring the pocket to be bored open. A fixture was made to register the flywheel as it would mount the crankshaft. The boring was done on a Clausing 8520. The fixture was turned on a Rivett 608.
        You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 3 photos.

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        • Originally posted by 90LX_Notch View Post
          This is a flywheel for an old wood chipper that had destroyed the pilot bearing wiping out the bearing pocket. No replacement bearing or flywheel is available. The customer purchased a larger bearing requiring the pocket to be bored open. A fixture was made to register the flywheel as it would mount the crankshaft. The boring was done on a Clausing 8520. The fixture was turned on a Rivett 608.
          Nice job. I did a few back in the dark ages, but usually sleeved the bore to fit the standard bearing.
          I cut it off twice; it's still too short
          Oregon, USA

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          • Made a new press for inserting press-in shaft seals. They like to tilt off-square and get messed up putting them in, so I made a new press device. Not too fancy, a thickish plate with a 3/8-16 stud (actually a carriage bolt) threaded in it and held with a nut to keep it square, and a series of different sized bushings to press different sizes of seal. Had to make a new one of 2,25", to press the seal on an Onan generator, between the 2 cylinder engine and the generator head.

            Pretty straightforward turning and drilling, so no pics of the process.

            The seal went in OK, although even with the press, it wanted to get cocked. Once it was started it went in smoothly, the least trouble yet. I had made the 2.25" disc a slip fit on a smaller size top-hat disc that did 1.5" and 3/4", and that may have allowed some shifting. I think I need to add a spigot on the 2.25" and all additional discs I make, so that they are more restricted from cocking. The 3/4 and 1.5" combo does fine, it was the slip fit that did not work out as well as I wanted.

            If you let the seal get cocked, it will never seal right in the bore. It has to go in straight. Really wants an arbor press with a fixed disc attachment, but that cannot be used to press one in-situ, you have to be able to bring it to the arbor press, which is not always possible. No arbor press on-site at my buddy's where the genset was, so no-go even though the seal and bearing holder is a plate that unbolts.

            Seal may not have been the issue.... my buddy found oil in other places, although after replacing it, a lot less oil came out. But the real leak may be in the ignition pushrod that goes vertically up fro the crankshaft. There is a bronze bearing that may be worn and letting oil through. There was a lot of oil in the ignition points box, and it may be dripping down over the other seal and making it look like that is leaking. We might have cleaned off a bunch of oil when disassembling, and it takes time to build up to where it drips again..
            2801 3147 6749 8779 4900 4900 4900

            Keep eye on ball.
            Hashim Khan


            It's just a box of rain, I don't know who put it there.

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            • I’m in total agreement Tim about sleeving the flywheel. I had suggested sleeving it; but the customer bought the larger bearing and that’s what they wanted to use.

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              • Made these countersunk washers for a friend's BMX rebuild. Seems like you can pick them up fairly cheap (ok, not cheap but affordable!) over the other side of the pond but they're really pricey over here. The originals are aluminium but these are EN19 (4140/Chromoly). I intend to make some in aluminium too and post him a choice....but I've only got bars that are unreasonably too large (waste of time and stock) or too small. More are in the post.... aren't they always?!

                I'd just like to take this opportunity to say: Look, actual machining....of parts that are neither for my lathe not my mill.....yeah, alright he could have bought them.
                You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

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                • 40 years ago I “divorced” my motorcycle engine and trans. There was lots of welding done and over the years and heat cycles the cases were no longer matching up the way I wanted them too.
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                  I made a mandrill that pressed in to align the crank bearings and then got the cases fit together and aligned. I turned down some 10mm od SS tube to .375 and reamed 3 holes 5/32 down into the threaded part of the opposite case to fit the tube and act as aligning dowels. I used some 5/16 all thread to jack the press fit tube sections into place.
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                  before I split the cases again I cleaned up the cylinder decks.
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                  Illigitimi non Carborundum 😎
                  9X49 Birmingham Mill, Reid Model 2C Grinder, 13x40 ENCO GH Lathe, 6X18 Craftsman lathe, Sherline CNC mill, Eastwood TIG200 AC/DC and lots of stuff from 30+ years in the trade and 15.5 in refinery unit operations. Now retired. El Paso, TX

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                  • Last Friday actually, but just a simple 1.5-8 threaded adapter for mounting small chucks in a big lathe when doing small work. Everyone has their own variation of doing it, but I like this way as it doesn't scar the chuck. I'm debating putting a hole in it for fitting work through. Dunno. Maybe I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

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                    I finally nailed down good looking threads by using the laydown carbide inserts on this 1018. It likes to tear a lot.
                    21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                    1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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                    • Oh, is that a 5" adjust-tru? Where do you live, and do you have a mean dog?
                      I cut it off twice; it's still too short
                      Oregon, USA

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                      • Originally posted by Tim Clarke View Post
                        Oh, is that a 5" adjust-tru? Where do you live, and do you have a mean dog?
                        6", uhh Timbuktu, and just a mean lion.
                        21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
                        1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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                        • Went home for lunch, the riggers dropped off a new lathe whilst I was gone.

                          A chuck is an option, the shop owner did not realize this, another two grand down the hole (-:

                          Looks like a decent entry level CNC lathe, a 4 position turret ATC that is larger then I thought it would be. It will be two weeks or so before it is running between the electrical contractor and the "factory technicians" that have to finish the assembly in place.

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