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  • What did I machine today? Well, it was after midnight last night so I guess it qualifies. I was making an aluminum front panel for a resistance calibration standard that I need. It is just a rectangle of 0.050" aluminum with a bunch of round holes. Used the 4X6 band saw to cut it out and two, 12" files to bring it to size to fit the plastic box. The eight holes that could be reached with my hand held punch were punched. Fast work and little cleanup was needed. The remaining 9, 1/4" holes which are for some mini banana jacks, were drilled in the drill press using a step drill which also makes deburring easy. Four of the punched holes needed to be countersunk so the vinyl label could fit flat over the screws. Those CS holes are to hold a pair of brackets for the small PC board which will hold the precision (0.1% and 0.05%) resistors.

    I hope to make those two brackets tonight. I get to use the mill for them. And the holes will be tapped.

    I got a delivery of white, matte, vinyl label stock for printing the front panel in today's mail and I will be printing that front panel label after I finish browsing this BB.

    With just "🎵a little bit of blooming luck🎵" my resistance standard should be complete tonight.

    Photos later.
    Paul A.
    SE Texas

    And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
    You will find that it has discrete steps.

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    • Originally posted by Paul Alciatore View Post
      With just "🎵a little bit of blooming luck🎵" my resistance standard should be complete tonight.

      Photos later.
      Paul I've been wondering how to quantify resistance in terms other than I and E. How did Ohm originally do it? Could it be done with temperature deltas, or in terms of coulombs law, or joules per unit time? I have downloaded Georg Ohm's original paper, but haven't taken the time to get into it yet. I guess I'm asking, how are electrical standards originated? Is there an electrical equivalent of using the three-plate method on surface plates?

      A link to download Ohm's book: https://archive.org/details/galvaniccircuit00lockgoog
      Last edited by nickel-city-fab; 06-10-2021, 09:34 PM.
      25 miles north of Buffalo NY, USA

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      • Originally posted by Bented View Post
        ...I know nothing about this material.
        Finally something in which I can claim to be your equal!

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        • made a bunch of chuck keys and fit a set of jaws to a 3 jaw chuck (right tooth pitch, wrong width/ slot height)
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          • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post

            Finally something in which I can claim to be your equal!
            Turned away the old polycarbonate covers leaving the brass mandrels untouched, much like the unfilled material the chip simply would not break.
            I had to watch every part because as they got thinner in wall thickness they would spin at unpredictable diameters.

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            • Originally posted by Cenedd View Post
              And now there is shop air



              That's a spare G1/4 (BSPP) port on the top plugged with a blank....and totally not because I drilled one in the wrong face

              Doozer You were right about the Loctite 577 being good stuff. One caveat though: there's a very limited window of adjustment when you're installing a fitting so when I put in the brass male-male connector between the manifold and the filter, I did one end first and then did the other end and tried to clock it straight without being too loose. That moved (intentionally) the side installed first and that then leaked when tested (after it had set). Cleaned it off and reapplied - actually with a different connector that just happened to clock better - and it was fine.

              First outlet is the air gun and the second is the Fogbuster I've not quite finished sorting out the piping for - that has it's own regulator on the reservoir....although I'm now wondering whether it might have been better to move it to the manifold like the air gun
              Try Loctite 575 if 577 is curing too quickly. It's my go-to
              -paul

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              • Originally posted by psomero View Post

                Try Loctite 575 if 577 is curing too quickly. It's my go-to
                Thanks. I've looked it up. What would be really helpful is if Loctite gave tables of the differences between very similar products Looks like I could only get that one in really big (pricey!) bottles here. I think they advised the 577 because one of the requirements I gave them was to be able to clock the fittings so the adjuster was in the right place or the gauge the right way up - and that meant not necessarily screwing the fitting in tight.

                Originally posted by Cenedd
                ....although I'm now wondering whether it might have been better to move it to the manifold like the air gun
                Yup, that's the better way of doing it as then I'll have the space to mount the res on the little bit of wall space I have available. Broke down that part of it and of course, I don't have the right fittings since that part is 1/8" and everything else is 1/4". Truly a project where each part comes on a separate delivery Some day I hope to be able to do something from start to finish without needing to order anything!

                Did manage this fix with stock items though. That plastic ring must have been under a lot of tension judging by the gap that's left - and it's tight enough now! Will have to shorten the pins when I get round to it but the main thing is being able to sleep as this fan keeps my son cool overnight!



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