Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What did you machine today?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ok, I thought ahead this time and made the tool before I needed it.

    This is the blind bearing puller for the 6806 bearings.

    Now I just gotta wear out my new bearings to test it.....

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2939.jpg
Views:	551
Size:	239.9 KB
ID:	1955014 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2936.jpg
Views:	545
Size:	397.5 KB
ID:	1955015

    Comment


    • The glove box knob on my '52 MG TD broke, so I made a new one.

      A new one from Moss ($10 shipped):

      Click image for larger version

Name:	408-190_2JPG.jpg
Views:	545
Size:	28.6 KB
ID:	1955050

      I made mine from brass so that it would last more than 70 years 😁:


      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2260.JPG
Views:	500
Size:	977.9 KB
ID:	1955051

      Comment


      • Not today but tomorrow.

        A paper board manufacturer tried to roll something that would not roll. It twisted the 1 3/4" drive diameter right off the end of the shaft.

        Comment


        • Had to replace some bearings in my mower spindle, and lost the key somewhere. Found one hiding in a chunk of 1/2" cold rolled bar though.



          Now that I made that one, I'll no doubt find the real one tomorrow.

          Comment


          • What's the plan of attack on something like that Bented? cut off, bevel and weld on a new end (with associated machining)? Or just a machine a whole new shaft?

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Dan Dubeau View Post
              What's the plan of attack on something like that Bented? cut off, bevel and weld on a new end (with associated machining)? Or just a machine a whole new shaft?
              New shaft from 2 1/2" diameter TGP 1045.
              Only the ends need turning but it is 80+" long and requires some setup and handling.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Bented View Post
                A paper board manufacturer tried to roll something that would not roll. It twisted the 1 3/4" drive diameter right off the end of the shaft.
                I can't say that would be my preferred method of over-torque control!

                Comment


                • Did one end today so I am well ahead of the game, the part needs to be finished by Tuesday.
                  It also must have 3 keyways milled on 2 diameters.

                  Flipped it for the other end at 11:00 AM or so and my employer told me to finish it on Monday, the other end is a simple 2.250 +.000-.002" diameter X 6" long.
                  Overall length is 82 1/8"

                  Bented
                  Senior Member
                  Last edited by Bented; 08-07-2021, 05:36 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Bought a new Yost vise with the idea to use it on a trailer hitch mount. Just machined the base plate today.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	Yost vise and plate.jpg
Views:	433
Size:	170.4 KB
ID:	1955390

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	Yost vise with plate on base.jpg
Views:	427
Size:	162.7 KB
ID:	1955391

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Ridgerunner View Post
                      Bought a new Yost vise with the idea to use it on a trailer hitch mount. Just machined the base plate today.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Yost vise and plate.jpg
Views:	433
Size:	170.4 KB
ID:	1955390

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Yost vise with plate on base.jpg
Views:	427
Size:	162.7 KB
ID:	1955391
                      How did you do this.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by plunger View Post

                        How did you do this.
                        Rotary table would be my guess. Other less pricey options would be to make it round (lathe, mill boring head, stock already the right diameter) and weld the ears on.
                        Make an approximation of it mostly square and then file it to shape.
                        I'll throw in CNC for completeness.
                        So, in order, that's the Joe Piezinsky method, the Jason (Fireball Tools) method, the Tom Lipton (Ox Tools) method and the AvE method

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by plunger View Post

                          How did you do this.
                          The vise came with a drawing that included dimensions. I made a drawing that I could feed in a cnc mill. The only tricky part with slot cutting something out on the mill is clamping down the cut out piece after the end mill has past. Otherwise the part will jam and can break the end mill. It is possible to program the part with tabs and can be cut out later.

                          Edit to add > For general interest, the .630 holes are not drilled. I just program in a circular pocket using a .5 inch (12mm) end mill.
                          Ridgerunner
                          Senior Member
                          Last edited by Ridgerunner; 08-08-2021, 07:06 AM.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by plunger View Post

                            How did you do this.
                            Could also be sawn out on a vertical bandsaw.

                            Comment


                            • I made something like that for one of my vise's with a 2" tube on it, but it wasn't nearly as nice. I used a jig saw to cut the outline, and a 4.5" grinder for cleanup. I didn't have access to anything much better at the time, but it still does the job. I have a mobile stand with 2" receiver tubes sticking out so I can mount things in various positions. So far in all these years since making it, I've never made anything else to go on it lol. I should get on that......

                              Comment


                              • I made a crank/power option for knee elevation on my Sheldon horizontal mill.

                                The Sheldon has a 4" hand wheel for knee elevation. Basically a 2" long crank when doing much elevation. Which is not much leverage for fine adjustment and really a pain when doing multi-inch moves.

                                So I took off the hand wheel (pinned to a shaft) and made an adapter with a 3/4" hex on the end:

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2270.JPG
Views:	273
Size:	1.03 MB
ID:	1956023

                                With the hex, I can use a socket in a cordless drill for fast, effortless, raising & lowering. Most of the time that's not needed and I made a 6" crank that's used most of the time:

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_E2272.JPG
Views:	264
Size:	750.8 KB
ID:	1956024

                                The 6" length makes a huge difference.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X