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  • Penetrating oil

    What are folks using for penetrating oil these days? Something I could spray on a rusted bolt the night before trying to bust it loose?

    How about a rust protectant for bare metal? What are people using here?

    Finally, where can I pick up the liquid glove stuff I've seen mentioned occasionally. I've tried three different auto parts stores, and they all gave me the cow eye stare.

    Thanks
    Wayne

  • #2
    For liquid glove go to a vet, a paint store or agricultural feed store.
    Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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    • #3
      PB Blaster seems to work ok for a penetrating oil. I don't have a lot of faith in any of them.

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      • #4
        After years of trying different penetrating oils, I tried PB Blaster on the recommendation of this board. It does seem to work somewhat better then anything else I have used.
        For bare metal, it depends. Sandaro Top-Cote, wax, CRC, tool black, oil, clear coat.
        Location: North Central Texas

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        • #5
          Try Rust Check. It`s the best thing I have seen for rust prevention but takes quite awhile to work as a penetrating oil, since it is a lot thicker than most penetrating oils. If you assemble anything and use Rust Check as a lubricant, it will stay there for a long long time. I have seen some truely amazing results from use of this product and I know alot of people don`t believe it`s as good as it sounds, but try it and find out for yourself.
          Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada

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          • #6
            For badly rusted bolts I usually spray on some acetylene
            Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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            • #7
              Dear Evan: I have great respect for your knowledge, and would normally agree. But this has got my curiousity going. Acetylene is a gas. How do you do this? and why?
              <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Evan:
              For badly rusted bolts I usually spray on some acetylene </font>

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              • #8
                Combine with oxygen in an intense exothermic reaction
                Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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                • #9
                  I've had pretty good luck using PB blaster. By the way, it does a good job on the powder residue that accumulates in your semi-automatic gas operated guns.

                  Chris

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                  • #10
                    I agree with Evan, the "bright blue wrench" does wonders for loosening up rusted bolts.
                    Just let the part cool down before handling.
                    457863656C73696F7220212000

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                    • #11
                      Kroil

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                      • #12
                        I gotta weigh-in with Evan and some of the others on the oxy/acetylene. Never found anything worth a damn that would actually "penetrate"....'cept maybe drill bits & mills!!

                        For rust prevention I tend to use never-seize and/or copper slip alot. Coating bolts/nuts/whatever that will someday once again, need to come off. Makes it alot easier just watch what you use for different temperature stuff (thats why I've got the two of 'em...one's got more nickel or something...probably the one thats not "copper" slip....haha)....anyhow...works for me...take care!

                        Chris

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                        • #13
                          While it is true that most, so called, "penetrating oils" are pretty much worthless, there are a couple of exceptions. Namely, Kroil, as mentioned by Yorgatron, and CRC 556, if you can find it. It may be long gone, however. Both of these will actually disolve rust. Not instantly, of course, but they do work. Kroil is expensive and hard to find, but I have taken motors that are rusted solid and had them roll over freely after a couple of weeks of regular hosing down with CRC 556 and Kroil. (I am talking about engines that you couldn't beat the pistons out of with a sledge hammer.

                          The "gas axe" works well, if you don't have much time, especially if candle wax is used as a "penetrant".

                          [This message has been edited by Jason J (edited 03-30-2004).]

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                          • #14
                            Ok, while we are on the subject of penetrating oils, where does GIBBS fit into this picture? I've heard people swearing this is the best, and it is expensive...
                            Oh yeah, almost forgot, for liquid glove, try a safety supply...
                            Jim

                            [This message has been edited by shaque (edited 03-30-2004).]
                            Jim

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                            • #15
                              The very best penetrating oils are about as effective as a rain dance. Heat is the only thing that works, although many do not allow enough time to let the heat penetrate. I have even heated only the fastener, alternately heating and moving away from the small area of the end while waiting for the heat to slowly go down to the rust. Luckily, the very rust you want to free up seems to work as a pretty good heat barrier, tending to keep the surrounding area cool. When the rust gets hot enough it seems to act and look like a liquid lubricant. Obviously, you are only going to do it this way if you can't heat up the casting which is much quicker.

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