Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Old anvil repair

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Old anvil repair

    I bought a very old Fisher anvil, probably made in the 1800's.
    It was very cheap but the edges are badly chiped.
    The face is OK so I thought I might bolt it in the mill and take a cut down each side to clean it up.
    Problem is the face is very hard and I'm not sure how to mill it.
    Would carbide work? The chipped edges would make an interrupted cut at first
    How would you clean it up?
    Bill
    I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

  • #2
    A lot of smiths will just clean up the surfaces with a big flap wheel on an angle grinder. My blacksmithing instructor does this on the ACC anvils once a semester after the students have dinged them up.

    I've seen people mill the surfaces if it has a bad swayback. The top surface is in the low 50's (unless it's a Refflinghaus), so it's no problem with a carbide tool.
    "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

    Comment


    • #3
      I bought an old one recently not too big but a heavy devil none the less around 250 ,pounds anyway it was repaired at the end with a proper job with dowels and welded well together it was though cheap and cheerfull only costing me £30 plus diesel however I did trim the top up and smoothed out the weld with a flap grinder dusty job it was too.I am happy with it and can say the flap wheel does a good job.I actually trim wood with this method also when doing rustic work it works great. Alistair
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

      Comment


      • #4
        Many of the old anvils had a top plate forge welded on the anvil. It was a piece of cast steel and would be very hard. With proper pre-heating you might be able to build up the edge with some hard surfacing rod and grind it back to shape.

        Comment


        • #5
          I'd probably fashion some sort of temporary guide fence and smooth it with an angle grinder. Once it's fairly smooth, then you could take a finishing cut with a carbide cutter.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by J. R. Williams View Post
            With proper pre-heating you might be able to build up the edge with some hard surfacing rod and grind it back to shape.
            I've seen several folks try that, never with success -- the hard face always pops off. There's a huge amount of thermal mass in the anvil, so preheating it is a bitch.
            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

            Comment


            • #7
              When I asked about refinishing my Fisher a while back I was advised to simply touch it up with a belt sander and flap wheel since the edges are supposed to be radiused anyway and gouges can be worked around or prove useful at times. YYMV.

              Comment


              • #8
                This may sound dumb, but faced with the problem of making one of the soft Horror Freight anvils usable, I faced off the anvil, bought a piece of pre-hardened 1/2" tool steel plate, cut and ground it to fit, and epoxied it to the freshly-faced and thoroughly cleaned surface. If I wanted to, I could probably knock the plate off by striking it from the side, so I'm careful not to do that. The surface isn't as hard and bouncy as a real anvil, but with care, I've been able to do the occasional small forging job with it. The top is still secure after several years.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Fisher anvils

                  Fisher anvils were made by preheating a steel 'top', inserting it into the mold and casting iron in the mold and thus welding the top to the body.

                  see:
                  http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/an...her-norris.php

                  but to address your concern about the edges...

                  The hard sharp edges that the anvil had when it was new are not that useful for forging. If I need a sharp edge I'll use a top plate or a butcher.
                  Not to many places in forging for a sharp 90 degree corner. The various radii that can be ground onto the edges are more useful.

                  One forging technique is half on half off, where the stock to be forged is placed on the edge of the anvil and is struck by a hammer face that is held half over the face and half off. Any drawing action (where the stock is made longer at the expense of cross section) needs to be done with at least one curved face to make the metal move perpendicular to the axis of the stock instead of spreading out like a cowpie if it were struck full on the anvil with a the full face of a flat hammer.

                  I didn't mean to launch into a mini forging lesson, but suffice to say the the soft edges are much more useful then a a knife edge. It may look pretty through machinist eyes, but the smith's eyes would look for a more useful soft edge....

                  paul
                  paul
                  ARS W9PCS

                  Esto Vigilans

                  Remember, just because you can doesn't mean you should...
                  but you may have to

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I ground off some of the chips but have a way to go to have an even edge.
                    Looks like it will take some more work.
                    It will be ok when I get it ground down.
                    Bill

                    I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The edge don't look terrible, but that's a heck of a hollow in the center. I'd fly cut it...
                      "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It's really flat in the center within a few thousands . I think that is a shadow in the picture.
                        Bill
                        I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Personally I would just leave it. If you make it all perfect and nice when you chip it you will be upset.
                          Andy

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here's mine - about 100lb. Metalmagpie found it for me.







                            Similar to that discussed -it has a steel plate cast into the top surface. I was going to "fix" it, but now you guys have me worried.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'll trade you,
                              Yours is a lot better than mine.
                              Bill
                              I cut it off twice and it's still too short!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X