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  • Need help with cutoff tool holder

    I have a problem with my cutoff tool holder. It has been fine up till today, when I changed the stickout of the tool for a 1 3/8" OD bar to part off. When I did that, I broke the blade, the only one of that small size I had. I switched to a larger, thicker blade and had problems getting the blade to be locked into the holder.

    The holder is a generic Chinese BXA size, with a "shoe" driven by a left/right threaded shaft (screw) for takeup. The screw is driven by a hex socket in one end of the screw (4mm socket) which has wallowed out. I cut a slot with a dremel tool in the other end of the screw so I could finish the job (I had to reset the shoe to get the shaft to protrude beyond the shoe so I could cut the slot) using a screwdriver.

    What I need is a replacement screw, its about 8mm diameter (7.84nn measured) of fine pitch with left and right hand threads of some fine metric pitch on it, with a 4mm hex in the end.

    Anyone know of a place that might have such a part? I sent a email to CDCO, but thats not where I bought it from, I don't remember where I got it from. I think I got it from Harbor Freight on a closeout deal, which means they won't have any parts.

    Anyone else had this problem, how did you resolve it? Anyone know of someone who may have parts for this?

    Steve
    A end view of the screw with the screwdriver slot in it:



    A side view with the shoe and blade, you can see the screw in the slot above the blade:


  • #2
    If you cannot make the screw, I think it'll be easier to get a new holder from CDCO. They cost $26.
    And the screws there are, indeed, POS, so you may as well continue using the one you've modified.

    If you have a chance, consider buying something like Iscar SGTBN Tool Block and their blades. You'll be able to hold the block in the same type of BXA tool holder you use for the regular turning lathe bits.
    Last edited by MichaelP; 05-28-2013, 12:00 AM.

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    • #3
      Steve
      In all sincerity, that's why the holders are so cheap
      I doubt the replacement part will last long either ?
      Problem does not exist with an Aloris.
      Rich

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      • #4
        When you get the new tool holder, Mill or grind a groove for the top of the T to fit into. The vertical side of the tool will then flush up to the vertical surface of the holder. If you mill or grind a small pocket for the bottom of the tool to set into it works better.
        Byron Boucher
        Burnet, TX

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        • #5
          Thanks for the comments, guys. I guess I knew the problem was to be solved by getting a new, better holder. Putting a grove on the "shoe" and bottom is a good idea, but doesn't fix the screw problem.

          I will look up the Iscar tool block, I think I know what that looks like. I made one for myself years ago, but it doesn't hold the cutter tight enough.

          I will look into a different holder tomorrow, and hope the one I have will hold up for the 15 pieces needed to be parted off the 316SS bar.

          Steve

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          • #6
            Well, just to put a close to this, I ordered an Phase II #7 parting tool holder from Travers Tool through Amazon. $78 including $10 shipping, I used some Gift Cards from relatives last Christmas to help pay for it. should be here Monday.

            I checked on the Iscar SGTBN Tool Block, $200 plus the cost of the blade plus the cost of the carbide inserts, too pricey for me. I may try my homemade one thats similar, but its for the small blade I broke thats the cause of all this.

            Steve

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            • #7
              Just a postscript-- I got a parts list with the Phase II holder, and it listed a replacement screw as a part. I called up the importer in New Jersey (www.phase2plus.com) and the screw cost $6.15 with $3.75 USPS flat rate shipping, so I ordered one just to see if it would work.

              Got the screw today, and it worked fine.. The Phase II screw was about 3/8" shorter than the one on the HF holder, but it worked fine. I just parted off some of the 1 3/8"dia 316 bar with both, couldn't tell the difference.

              One thing I noticed, the Phase II holder is slightly smaller physically than the HF one, I did not have to mill off some of the bottom of the Phase II holder to get it on center like I did on the HF one.

              Thanks for the help!

              Steve

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              • #8
                I purchased an OXA QCTP from LMS at Cabin Fever this year. I had the same problem with the 250-007T cutoff tool holder. I e-mailed LMS about it asking for a replacement screw and Chris sent me a new tool holder, no charge. Gotta love great customer service!
                It is supposed to be a Tormach QCTP, I'll try them for a replacement screw.

                Chuck

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                • #9
                  Here in my town is a place that sells a types of bolts, if you want i see if i can get bolt or 2 for you. Check the pitch ok i hope you have a metric thread pitch gage or check it against a tap. Let me know pm me

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the ofer GEP, but if Tormach doesn't come through, I'll modify the tool holder to take a M6 socket head cap screw and get rid of the left hand thingy.

                    Chuck

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                    • #11
                      A Jacobs chuck for tapping has the type of screw you all are talking about. Also my big Walter face mill has that type for clamping in the cartridges or cassettes. You might look there for some replacements.
                      How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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                      • #12
                        Chuck thats exactly what i would do. Remodel china

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                        • #13
                          Best idea may be to lose the blades altogether, and get an insert cutoff tool that will fit a standard toolholder. They work better, and don't need sharpened.

                          For little pieces, where you want a narrower cut, grind your own out of a standard cutter blank. You can make it any width you want. Just like a grooving tool, but with the "blade" longer. These also fit a standard toolholder, naturally.
                          1601

                          Keep eye on ball.
                          Hashim Khan

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Steve Steven View Post
                            Just a postscript-- I got a parts list with the Phase II holder, and it listed a replacement screw as a part. I called up the importer in New Jersey (www.phase2plus.com) and the screw cost $6.15 with $3.75 USPS flat rate shipping, so I ordered one just to see if it would work.

                            Got the screw today, and it worked fine.. The Phase II screw was about 3/8" shorter than the one on the HF holder, but it worked fine. I just parted off some of the 1 3/8"dia 316 bar with both, couldn't tell the difference.

                            One thing I noticed, the Phase II holder is slightly smaller physically than the HF one, I did not have to mill off some of the bottom of the Phase II holder to get it on center like I did on the HF one.

                            Thanks for the help!

                            Steve
                            Well, Tormach responded to my inquiry that they don't have the screw as a replacement part.
                            My Tormach/LMS holder has the same part number stencilled on it except for T at the end, indicating it's a straight, not angled holder. Steve, can you share the part # from your Pase II literature? If this is going to be an issue, I'd like a source for replacements.
                            Maybe a scanned copy of the parts list?
                            Again, I can always drill out the holder and replace the left/right threaded job with a regular SHCS.

                            Chuck

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Steve Steven View Post

                              I cut a slot with a dremel tool in the other end of the screw so I could finish the job...................Steve

                              While you have the Dremel out, cut a similar, but shallower, groove in the parting blade. This will allow the chip to form a slight V shape and eliminate rubbing on the sidewalls of the cut.


                              Rex

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