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should i reweld my 4x6 bandsaw blade?

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  • should i reweld my 4x6 bandsaw blade?

    It's the cheapo blade that comes with the saw, I must have cut the equivalent of 20 2x2" square pieces, through the course which it broke a tooth or two, and then eventually snapped. It will probably just snap again, quickly, is that correct?

  • #2
    The blades that come with it barely cut better than a piece of package strapping. Get a good lenox diemaster or other name brand blade and dont look back.

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    • #3
      Ha ha. Yeah, just weld up a piece of strapping and put it on. Try not to get it on backwards

      There are some who say that there's nothing wrong with carbon steel blades, but I probably couldn't get a day out of one in my hobby shop. The original blade should be tossed out right away, as not only is it garbage, it will lead you astray as you're trying to align the saw. Agreed with macona- lennox diemaster II blades are all I buy now. In the long run they are much cheaper than the inferior blades. I'm sure there are some other blades that are good- I had a Morse and it was ok, I had another- can't recall the name now- it was ok also. I think the diemaster is a little better-.
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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      • #4
        That's an easy one. No.

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        • #5
          Agreed, Throw out the blade, buy a new *BIMETAL* blade. No matter how cheap you are you won't reget it.
          the diffrence is night and day, it turns a $300 bandsaw into 90% of what you would get outta a $1000+ saw. its all in the blade!
          Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Elninio View Post
            It's the cheapo blade that comes with the saw, I must have cut the equivalent of 20 2x2" square pieces, through the course which it broke a tooth or two, and then eventually snapped. It will probably just snap again, quickly, is that correct?
            1) I will be good welding practice.
            2) Did it break at the weld or somewhere else.

            if it broke at the weld you still might get a bunch of life out of it,
            I would tig weld mine when I really needed it and I could not get
            a new blade fast enough, make sure you use a good straight edge
            to line up the back edge of the blade. I just keep 2-4 of each pitch
            blade now on hand.

            I started on a 4x6 Jet, ran through hundreds of dollars worth of
            bands upgraded to a Jet 7x12 and had that awhile and ran through
            thousands of dollars of bands, I was running my welding business
            at the time, did a lot of cutting, then I purchased my Ellis 1600
            bands started lasting A LOT longer!!! When you have a solid rigid
            machine the band do not get stressed nearly as bad and last a lot
            longer. Also with 1" wide bands you have a much greater selection
            of types and pitches. But it is tough to justify a big saw unless you
            saw a lot.

            Originally posted by macona View Post
            The blades that come with it barely cut better than a piece of package strapping. Get a good lenox diemaster or other name brand blade and dont look back.
            Lenox are some of the best blades out I got to go to the Lenox
            school back 10 or so years ago, Great school. I worked for a
            Lenox distributor back then. Amada'a are very good also. They
            clearly lead the industry.

            Originally posted by darryl View Post
            Ha ha. Yeah, just weld up a piece of strapping and put it on. Try not to get it on backwards
            Now that is just funny there...

            Originally posted by Black_Moons View Post
            it turns a $300 bandsaw into 90% of what you would get outta a $1000+ saw. its all in the blade!
            You might be stretching it a bit there, pun intended.

            Hey any of you ever see a blade tension meter?
            Last edited by Shade; 06-05-2013, 03:15 AM.

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            • #7
              Here are the pictures of the Tension Meter from Lenox.



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              • #8
                Nope. It will break another tooth again. I got haltbar bandsaw blades. Bi metal blades are good ones.
                if you can't take criticism, do the right thing.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by bosox View Post
                  if you can't take criticism, do the right thing.
                  The correct quote is, "If you can't dish it out, don't take it."

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                  • #10
                    Just got the new blade. I was able to speed up the SFM from the lowest to the highest, whilst the motor no longer gets too hot to the touch, simultaneously increasing the mass on the end of the bandsaw by 2 bricks (the kind you build a house with)! Coolant seems to make it cut worse, I think that's because it permits a heavier downfeed, which is causing blade slippage - I'm afraid to tighten the belt even more, it might reduce its life. I'll have to try it when I have more money, but right now I'm saving up for a digital readout, so can't afford to have it break. What are the chances it will break?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Elninio View Post
                      Just got the new blade. I was able to speed up the SFM from the lowest to the highest, whilst the motor no longer gets too hot to the touch, simultaneously increasing the mass on the end of the bandsaw by 2 bricks (the kind you build a house with)! Coolant seems to make it cut worse, I think that's because it permits a heavier downfeed, which is causing blade slippage - I'm afraid to tighten the belt even more, it might reduce its life. I'll have to try it when I have more money, but right now I'm saving up for a digital readout, so can't afford to have it break. What are the chances it will break?
                      Do not force the head down by adding weight, the spring should be adjust to 6-10 pounds force down or the max weight of the head.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Shade View Post
                        Do not force the head down by adding weight, the spring should be adjust to 6-10 pounds force down or the max weight of the head.
                        It's almost necessary at this speed, the blade doesn't produce chips of the proper size otherwise. The spring on this machine reduces down-force when it's screw is tightened, so maximum force is when it is not in tension. What will happen if I keep doing this? These bandsaws have problems specific to their size factor, I'm sure larger machines can exceed this downward force needed to break the blade without additional weights.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Shade View Post
                          Here are the pictures of the Tension Meter from Lenox.



                          Pics aren't displaying, url must point to the image itself (extension must be seen in the url).

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                          • #14
                            For best blade life you should back off the speed to where it will cut good without any bricks. Pushing it to the limits will make it dull soon or break.

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                            • #15
                              I would think that bandsaw blades should be run at the same speed as hss end mills, i.e. material specific.

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