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should i reweld my 4x6 bandsaw blade?

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  • Mike Nash
    replied
    Originally posted by Jess13 View Post
    The hardest thing for the blade to deal with is heat and to much pressure on the blade.Jess
    Not for me! The fastest way to kill blades I have found is trying to freehand thin plate on the little "table" you use for horizontal cuts, especially at weird kinky angles due to brackets or stuff. I get the same problem with a portaband too.


    Okay, maybe that qualifies as "too much pressure", but in a twisty-kinky kind of way.

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  • Dave C
    replied
    Originally posted by flylo View Post
    You do know the post is over 2 years old, right?
    Consider that I discovered the thread while searching for ideas about welding band saw blades in the home shop. The thread evolved into a discussion of what type oil the band saw gear box should use. I figured that if someone else does the same search, and has the same question, this was an opportunity to provide some relevant information. Especially since there has been much preaching on here, regarding the use of the search feature. I was not aware that the relevance of information is time and date dependent.

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  • flylo
    replied
    You do know the post is over 2 years old, right?

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  • Dave C
    replied
    GM parts counter sells gear oil specifically for positraction rear ends. It's formulated to not harm the clutch pack, so should be fine in your saw.

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  • Jess13
    replied
    I would not of thought that 90wt gear oil would cause a problem for brass. The straight drive trans have brass parts in them. Though there may be some gear oils that will cause brass problems, there has to be some that is made for 4 & 5 speed trans. I honestly have never seen any that was not intended for such use, but it has been a very long time sense I have had the need to even know (so I have not looked). I will look into to this because there should be some type of code that will indicate its use.

    I do remember some specialty gear oils for certain tranny types and this may have very well been the whole reason. I do remember these specialty lubes coming around when the syn type oils where coming to market. One such name for these type oils was something like "Syncromesh" . I do not remember if it was a brand name, or a type , or even if this name I am remembering is correct. I am sure there will be syn type gear lube that will work, and it sounds like one needs to read and check with the store when buying to make sure what is needed.

    I do know I have seen many of these saws around for sale that the gear in the box was eat away and needed repaired/replaced. Knowing what we know from past experience with Asian products it may be possible they are being shipped with improper oil when new. It may be worth researching the oil types and doing a change on what oil the saw was shipped with. Knowing how easy it is to get these blades to pop off the wheels on these saws I am wandering if in fact the wrong oil is the reason for wearing out the gear, in stead of to much load.


    Jess

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  • macona
    replied
    Originally posted by Elninio View Post
    What kind of oil should go in the gearbox?
    If it has a brass gear you want "Mineral" gear oil. 90 or 140wt

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  • bosox
    replied
    Owned saw with a wire chip brush and can be used either wet or dry cutting and horizontal/vertical cutting. 80 or 90 w gear oil on it, don't need a lot .

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  • jep24601
    replied
    Modern automotive gear oil is said to be corrosive to brass parts and bushings especially the synthetic oils.

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  • jnissen
    replied
    I use bees wax stick. Works great and only apply it at the start of a cut. If a large piece I may apply a little more as the cut goes on but very economical use of the lube.

    As for gearbox lube - I just used standard 90 wt. gear oil and seems to be working fine. As long as the bearings and seals in the box are OK it should last 100's if not 1000's of hours of use.

    Good write up on the gearbox here: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Ge...%20bandsaw.htm
    Last edited by jnissen; 06-10-2013, 11:34 AM.

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  • Elninio
    replied
    What kind of oil should go in the gearbox?

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  • Shade
    replied
    Originally posted by Elninio View Post
    Pics aren't displaying, url must point to the image itself (extension must be seen in the url).
    Can anyone see the pictures? They display nicely for me...

    Originally posted by Elninio View Post
    How do people use coolant with these saws?
    They don't the saw is not designed for it.

    Originally posted by Jess13 View Post
    You need to add a brush that the blade runs through so it will clear the chips off the blade before it reaches the pulley.
    Good point Jess, my old Jet 4x6 has a small chip brush on it. Also I have seen an air line rigged up with a needle valve to do the same.

    Originally posted by Elninio View Post
    There's a certain amount of pressure needed at minimum to cut properly, this bandsaw doesn't provide enough on large pieces (6" wide, even 8" cuts can be done on this bandsaw). Temperature isn't a problem with this new bimetal blade, but you could feel it on the older carbon steel one. The bearing housing would get hot too, after a few cuts, I opened it up and the oil was a thick sludge of brass. It was the first time being since the factory, and I suspect the worm didn't mesh perfectly with the gear (but now it does, after all that wear). I think temperature of the worm housing is an indicator of the quality of the oil; it's cool to the touch after a heavy cut, means the oil is not sludged up by fine brass particles.
    Elninio, did you buy this saw new or used? If there was sludge and brass in the
    gearbox after a few cut take it back to the dealer and have them replace it. If it
    is used, possible someone used automotive gear oil in the worm gear which will
    react with and damage brass and bronze worms.

    Also when a saw is set up correctly with the right pitch blade it will cut what is in
    the saw, adding weight will over load the blade and the saw and damage both.

    When you are cutting material you ideally want 6-12 teeth in the cut at anytime,
    never less than 3 teeth and never more than 24. So if you are cutting a 6 inch
    solid you want a blade that had a pitch between 1-2 TPI, or at least has 4 TPI,
    and your not going to find that in a half inch wide band.

    So what I am saying is your little saw even it can hold a 6 inch solid it is not designed
    to cut it.

    Originally posted by Elninio View Post
    How often do you apply it? Will a regular candle do?
    No regular candle will not cut it, pun intended, these stick lubricants are formulated
    for cutting metal. Castrol and Boelube are, in my opinion, very well made products
    for cutting a variety of materials.

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  • Elninio
    replied
    Originally posted by macona View Post
    I use the wax stick cutting lube with my saw. No mess.
    How often do you apply it? Will a regular candle do?

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  • macona
    replied
    I use the wax stick cutting lube with my saw. No mess.

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  • Elninio
    replied
    Originally posted by Jess13 View Post
    If the right blade is used it will not need extra pressure to cut fast...
    Jess
    There's a certain amount of pressure needed at minimum to cut properly, this bandsaw doesn't provide enough on large pieces (6" wide, even 8" cuts can be done on this bandsaw). Temperature isn't a problem with this new bimetal blade, but you could feel it on the older carbon steel one. The bearing housing would get hot too, after a few cuts, I opened it up and the oil was a thick sludge of brass. It was the first time being since the factory, and I suspect the worm didn't mesh perfectly with the gear (but now it does, after all that wear). I think temperature of the worm housing is an indicator of the quality of the oil; it's cool to the touch after a heavy cut, means the oil is not sludged up by fine brass particles.

    It's nice to have some extra lubricity; I want to flood the blade to give it some lubricity, not to keep it cool (since this isn't a problem). I can imagine lubricity causing the belt to slip, but it has never been that bad, even when the motor was barely able to turn the old carbon steel blade. Does the 9x10 bandsaw use a wire brush to clean the blade? I will be introducing a drip coolant system, so there won't be enough flow for the fluid to wash the chips from the blade (so, the idea of a brush is my only option). Has anyone on this forum ever made a wire brush on a ball bearing wiper like you suggest?

    edit; I found a kalamazoo bandsaw with the wire brush idea; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7fk8fttrY0
    Last edited by Elninio; 06-09-2013, 04:32 AM.

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  • Jess13
    replied
    You need to add a brush that the blade runs through so it will clear the chips off the blade before it reaches the pulley. These saws do not have enough grip at the pulley/drive wheel to handle coolant very well, but if you keep the pressure down and the chips cleared off the blade it can do well without it.

    Now you may add pressure and coolant/oil and get it to cut faster but the amount of pressure it would take to get the blade to not slip would most likely shorten the blades life. The best bet is to buy a good quality blade that is designed for the cutting task. This will get the fastest performance and best blade life. If the right blade is used it will not need extra pressure to cut fast.

    The hardest thing for the blade to deal with is heat and to much pressure on the blade. A air nozzle pointed at the blade after the cut can help keep heat down and remove chips from the teeth. Mounting a wire brush on a bearing for the blade to run through will remove any chips the air doesn't get. Plus with the blade temp keep down the chips don't try to stick to the blade as bad anyway (soft metals mainly).

    When a blade breaks a tooth you can pretty much count that blade dead. It will try to hang at this missing tooth and pull the blade off the pulley. The right quality and type blade, small air nozzle, chip brush and adjustments will get it cutting faster and lasting the best one of these little saws can do. Anything beyond this and you will wear the wheels/pulley and or the worm drive out real fast. The worm drive is already bad for going out with normal use on some models. I would guess running at the highest speed really contributes to this wear even though some models may have better gear sets than others.


    Jess

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