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DIY slip roller, tubes or solid?

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  • I was just waiting for BF to chime in

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    • Originally posted by Black Forest View Post

      You better be happy with it. It took you long enough to build the damn thing!

      Right, I can't return anything now if it fails.
      Andy

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      • I think this post is important and significant enough to archive somewhere it won't suddenly vanish. Also, like all such posts, there is a lot of conversation and side talk that isn't really germane to the build.

        I've never done this before and hope nobody gets upset. I can always take the link down! Anyway, I copied all the text from the six years of postings and put them into a single HTML file and edited it to remove some typos and (as mentioned above) material I judged not completely relevant. Here is the link:

        https://nwnative.us/Grant/shop%20articles/roll

        That being said, I'm hoping member VPT is still around because I'm getting ready to do a build like this and I have a couple of questions.

        The biggest question I have is on the topology of the blocks, the main top screws and the block end plates. It appears that the blocks press down on the top roller but won't lift it up - is that correct? Also, I'm guessing the screws are machined with a tee on the bottom that slides into the tee slot on the blocks? This would allow the blocks to be pulled up but again I don't see that pulling up the top roll. Finally, it appears you screwed plates on either side of your blocks which prevent the blocks from moving sideways on your machine. The detail of how the screws are arranged and the zerk fitting are really fuzzy. It looks like you used countersunk socket flathead screws with a zerk fitting in the middle. Is that right?

        metalmagpie

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        • Wow, I never saw this thread, thanks for the bump. Some good reading ahead. I skimmed through your article, what a great condensed version!
          21" Royersford Excelsior CamelBack Drillpress Restoration
          1943 Sidney 16x54 Lathe Restoration

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          • Originally posted by metalmagpie View Post
            I think this post is important and significant enough to archive somewhere it won't suddenly vanish. Also, like all such posts, there is a lot of conversation and side talk that isn't really germane to the build.

            I've never done this before and hope nobody gets upset. I can always take the link down! Anyway, I copied all the text from the six years of postings and put them into a single HTML file and edited it to remove some typos and (as mentioned above) material I judged not completely relevant. Here is the link:

            https://nwnative.us/Grant/shop%20articles/roll

            That being said, I'm hoping member VPT is still around because I'm getting ready to do a build like this and I have a couple of questions.

            The biggest question I have is on the topology of the blocks, the main top screws and the block end plates. It appears that the blocks press down on the top roller but won't lift it up - is that correct? Also, I'm guessing the screws are machined with a tee on the bottom that slides into the tee slot on the blocks? This would allow the blocks to be pulled up but again I don't see that pulling up the top roll. Finally, it appears you screwed plates on either side of your blocks which prevent the blocks from moving sideways on your machine. The detail of how the screws are arranged and the zerk fitting are really fuzzy. It looks like you used countersunk socket flathead screws with a zerk fitting in the middle. Is that right?

            metalmagpie
            Your condensed version really sucks. You took out all of my insults and prods for Andy to finish the thing. Shame on you. Without my insults he never would have finished the roller. He would not have made millions building fire pits. His kids couldn't go to college and maybe go hungry. Terrible. You didn't think this through very well.
            Location: The Black Forest in Germany

            How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by metalmagpie View Post
              I think this post is important and significant enough to archive somewhere it won't suddenly vanish. Also, like all such posts, there is a lot of conversation and side talk that isn't really germane to the build.

              I've never done this before and hope nobody gets upset. I can always take the link down! Anyway, I copied all the text from the six years of postings and put them into a single HTML file and edited it to remove some typos and (as mentioned above) material I judged not completely relevant. Here is the link:

              https://nwnative.us/Grant/shop%20articles/roll

              That being said, I'm hoping member VPT is still around because I'm getting ready to do a build like this and I have a couple of questions.

              The biggest question I have is on the topology of the blocks, the main top screws and the block end plates. It appears that the blocks press down on the top roller but won't lift it up - is that correct? Also, I'm guessing the screws are machined with a tee on the bottom that slides into the tee slot on the blocks? This would allow the blocks to be pulled up but again I don't see that pulling up the top roll. Finally, it appears you screwed plates on either side of your blocks which prevent the blocks from moving sideways on your machine. The detail of how the screws are arranged and the zerk fitting are really fuzzy. It looks like you used countersunk socket flathead screws with a zerk fitting in the middle. Is that right?

              metalmagpie


              I'll have to look threw your version when I have time.

              For the end plates. I made those plates to hold the bushings both from lateral movement and to hold them to the blocks so the screw does lift the roller. The screws have what basically a thick washer welded to the bottoms that fit in the T-slot so they lift the block/plates/roller. The zerk just lubes both the bushing and the screw via drilled ports.
              Andy

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