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DIY slip roller, tubes or solid?

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  • #46
    Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
    Solid doesn't add a lot to the bending strength after a certain thickness, but it does improve the crushing strength, which you need for rollers...

    Solid.
    Yep....

    Example: 4" solid is only about 7% stiffer than 4" tube with 1" wall.

    I've had this discussion several times with hot rod builders. Their contention was that tube is stiffer because the strength is concentrated at the OD whereas with solid it's distributed through out the bar.

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    • #47
      I have picked up some tube for this project! I know, I am a fast mover, I get an idea in my head and I have to get at it right away. This thread should be over within a week.


      I went to a semi local scrap yard and found some 4x1/2" tube about 7 feet long. I couldn't find any 3/4-1" plate for the roller ends so I will have to go back sometime. He did say he was getting in some "big load" within a week or so (was over a week ago now).

      I will make the roller as wide as I can get three matching sections out of the length of tube I got, around 28"ish wide I figure. I plan to skim the tubes to get the rust off and try to get a nice clean finish, they are gonna fill up the atlas pretty good. I would like to cut a few grooves in the rollers for round bar rolling like you see on many store units. Would much strength be lost turning a 1/4" deep groove into the 1/2" tube wall right by one of the ends? I suppose I could always slug it by that area as well. Which bring me to my next question I guess, for the reduced size ends that would go in a bearing or bushing, should this be a threw shaft or are just end stubs (press in couple inches then weld) be ok?
      Andy

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      • #48
        If it were me, I would just put journals on the ends.

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        • #49
          For the axles, I would make up some round washers of 1/4" or heavier steel that fit the OD of the axle and just fit the ID of the roller. Put a couple on each axle dividing the axle in thirds. This would stiffen up the roller tube and stabilize the axle also. Don't think I would cut a groove in the tube without supporting the tube with an inner bushing or something to make up the strength.

          Bob

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          • #50
            Originally posted by vpt View Post
            I went to a semi local scrap yard and found some 4x1/2" tube about 7 feet long.
            I can top that. Sunday I picked up three 4-1/2" solids 42" long. Now I don't have to cut up my long pieces.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by BobSchu View Post
              For the axles, I would make up some round washers of 1/4" or heavier steel that fit the OD of the axle and just fit the ID of the roller. Put a couple on each axle dividing the axle in thirds. This would stiffen up the roller tube and stabilize the axle also. Don't think I would cut a groove in the tube without supporting the tube with an inner bushing or something to make up the strength.

              Bob
              I talked with a local who is on the weldingweb forum about his. He mentioned he had a threw bar in the middle of his tubes which he machined up slugs to fit over the shaft and inside of the tube. He said he had three per tube, one on each and and one in the middle. Like you mentioned to help support the tube/stiffen it up. But at the same time his tubes were only 1/4" wall.

              Originally posted by Boostinjdm View Post
              I can top that. Sunday I picked up three 4-1/2" solids 42" long. Now I don't have to cut up my long pieces.
              I have to remember to take my camera along next time. The yard I go to has racks with 10" solids and every size down from that. I seen a number of tubes the size and thickness I needed but they were either full lengths or a bit to short. I looked till I found one around the length I wanted.

              I will take some pics when I go back. You guys won't believe!
              Andy

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              • #52
                Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
                Andy you keep quiet until you build the thing. No more posting in any threads until you at least can post some progress pictures. Now shut up and get busy.

                Here is the tube, I rolled it over today to get an equal patina all around.



                Andy

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                • #53
                  Today I cut the tube into 4 sections. The section was 9' long so I could have made a 36" roller BUT my lathe can only fit 30"ish or less plus I always intended on only having a 24" roller. So I cut them all to 26.25". I also made up a bull nose for my live center to use on the bigger tube.



                  Andy

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                  • #54
                    Any plans to include provisions for rolling rings?

                    If so, will this be by adding a solid end cap with
                    sufficient width to cut grooves.

                    .

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by vpt View Post
                      Today I cut the tube into 4 sections. The section was 9' long so I could have made a 36" roller BUT my lathe can only fit 30"ish or less plus I always intended on only having a 24" roller. So I cut them all to 26.25". I also made up a bull nose for my live center to use on the bigger tube.
                      great project, keep the pics coming....it will be really interesting to see its capacity

                      Originally posted by DR View Post
                      I've had this discussion several times with hot rod builders. .
                      obviously, its because the tough male billet molecules gravitate to outside and are only distracted from their duties by the weak female billet molecules if they're left in the middle
                      in Toronto Ontario - where are you?

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by EddyCurr View Post
                        Any plans to include provisions for rolling rings?

                        If so, will this be by adding a solid end cap with
                        sufficient width to cut grooves.

                        .
                        I have been pondering over it since the beginning. I have really never had the need to roll rings or small tube, but I know as soon as I am done building the roller I will need to. Right now my plan is so get some solid stock and turn it to a press fit on the ends of the tubes. Then turn down whats left sticking out to fit a bushing/bearing. With these "slugs" pressed in I could use them to extend the tubes by a few inches and put in the grooves for ring rolling in these slugs and leave the tube totally alone.

                        I do wonder though and I am sure someone here has some knowledge on it. How far should the end caps/slugs/axles (basically like a weld in trailer axle) be pressed into the tube to be sturdy enough without eventually walking around inside the tube? I will be welding the slugs to the tubes.
                        Andy

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                        • #57
                          Good boy Andy! You are doing good. Keep up the progress. I give you permission to make two other posts in other threads as a reward for working on the roller.
                          Location: The Black Forest in Germany

                          How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by vpt View Post
                            I do wonder though and I am sure someone here has some knowledge on it. How far should the end caps/slugs/axles (basically like a weld in trailer axle) be pressed into the tube to be sturdy enough without eventually walking around inside the tube? I will be welding the slugs to the tubes.
                            I've had good success using two discs attached to the stub shafts about 6" apart.The first one at the end of the tube is only welded to the tube,the shaft is press fit into it.Reason being the shaft will have a great deal of load on it and a weld here is nothing but a stress concentration you don't need.
                            The inner disc is welded to the stub and slip fit into the tube.The fit needs to be a drive in fit so there is no slack between the tube and disc.Kinda like so-

                            So far as ring and tube rolling,why not extend the shafts through the bearing blocks on the non-driven side and key them for interchangeable dies?
                            I just need one more tool,just one!

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by wierdscience View Post
                              I've had good success using two discs attached to the stub shafts about 6" apart.The first one at the end of the tube is only welded to the tube,the shaft is press fit into it.Reason being the shaft will have a great deal of load on it and a weld here is nothing but a stress concentration you don't need.
                              The inner disc is welded to the stub and slip fit into the tube.The fit needs to be a drive in fit so there is no slack between the tube and disc.Kinda like so-

                              So far as ring and tube rolling,why not extend the shafts through the bearing blocks on the non-driven side and key them for interchangeable dies?



                              Must have been reading my mind! I like the idea of the separated discs on a smaller shaft, the thought did cross my mind yesterday. I was thinking of that idea yesterday and was wondering about deflection in the smaller bar between the two discs. I was thinking a welded in slug with a turned down protruding shaft would be solid enough that all the forces and deflection would be transmitted right to the main tube itself. Where the smaller shaft riding inside two discs might be able to flex at both between the discs and the protruding shaft. Am I thinking right here?


                              I went to the scrap yard again yesterday and picked up 4' of 3.250" solid round and 4' of 1.750" solid round and a 1986 ford truck bumper (another project) all for $40.

                              I cut off a few sections of the 3.25" stock and turned them down to a press fit size for the main tubes. That is where I stopped wondering about what we just talked about. Should I make the 3" slugs the protruding shaft or cut them up into discs and use the 1.75" bar for the shaft? I was then thinking if I use bearings I would almost have to use the smaller shaft but then be limited to the bearings load limit. Where if I used plain bushings I could leave a bigger protruding shaft and the limit would then be whatever the unit can take till it starts to deflect and bend but with more turning resistance.
                              Andy

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by Black Forest View Post
                                Good boy Andy! You are doing good. Keep up the progress. I give you permission to make two other posts in other threads as a reward for working on the roller.
                                I think I already used up my allowance.
                                Andy

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