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  • Originally posted by vpt View Post
    I haven't had any time to move onto the next stage of the roller, the end plates. Every time I get even a half a day open that I feel I may be able to do some plate designs something else comes threw the door or the phone rings.

    I have been mulling over the idea between a pyramid and/or a pinch roller design. As of right now I am still thinking of making it a hybrid where the top roller can move horizontally to either a pinch roller location or over in a pyramid style location. When the idea actually get transferred to paper/cnc I will be able to see clearances to know if the idea will work or not.

    The end plates will be finished in the mill. The other thing about this I am wondering about is if I should remove most of the material of the slots for the rollers with the plasma table and then try to break threw the HAZ with an endmill to clean up the slots. Or do I just cut the blank endplates out on the table and then cut the slots from scratch on the mill? It will be more material to remove obviously if I do the slots from scratch on the mill but I won't have to deal with the HAZ from the plasma cutter.

    I haven't tried it with my new mill but I know trying to mill threw the HAZ on my atlas lathe was never pleasant.
    Have you considered having the end plates water jetted?

    Brian
    OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

    THINK HARDER

    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

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    • Originally posted by RichR View Post
      As I'm sure you are well aware, there is also option #3. Chain drill the slot first to remove a lot of the material.

      I didn't think of that, yes there is that option and may be a good one! Maybe just hole sawing both ends of each slot and running an endmill to join the holes may work alright as well.


      Originally posted by bborr01 View Post
      Have you considered having the end plates water jetted?

      Brian

      I haven't I guess because I was mainly thinking of what I can do in my own shop. But that is a viable option, I will have to look and ask around if anyone local has a water table. The place I bought my plasma table from was replacing it with a water table but they aren't exactly close to me.




      Is there a formula for how deep is to deep to slot/plunge with an endmill? My plan is to double up the endplates with either 1" material or .75" material, so the endplates would be either 2" thick or 1.5" thick. I planned to rough out the slots while the plates are all separate, then weld them together and finish the slots off. I don't think the .75" material would give me much trouble cutting with an endmill but I feel 1" might start giving chip problems with the endmill. I could slot/plunge half way and then flip the plate over and do the same from the backside but that adds allot of setup time on the mill.

      I wish the plasma didn't leave a haz around the cut, this would have been a cake walk if I could cut the slots with the plasma then just clean them up on the mill.
      Andy

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      • Andy,

        You can cut them with an end mill. Just take a small cut of maybe .100" each pass until you have cut through the entire thickness. Then finish the sides of the slots, using multiple passes if needed. Make sure to use a cutter that is smaller than the slot you are cutting. Like a 3/4" end mill for a 1" slot. Otherwise you will end up with crappy slots due to cutter flex.

        Brian
        OPEN EYES, OPEN EARS, OPEN MIND

        THINK HARDER

        BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

        MY NAME IS BRIAN AND I AM A TOOLOHOLIC

        Comment


        • Thanks Brian!

          The smallest slot will be 2.5" wide so not much worry about endmill size and the slot. But it still brings up a question, with the allowance of running any size endmill what would be a good size for cutting 1" deep (threw the plate)?
          Andy

          Comment


          • Andy
            Couple thoughts re: end plates, based on post#107. Instead of machining from solid, cut the plates so the slots are halved (so about 1.25 wide) and weld together. An angle grinder gets rid of HAZ. Leave some cleanup for machining.
            The other way is machine the slots into heavier stock and weld into the plates. HAZ would be away from any subsequent machining for weld distortion, which that HF flux core will surely give you.

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            • Going to go with the pyramid type. Will still be able to roll a tight roll but should work better for my more frequent thicker stuff. I made all the holes and slot undersize so i can machine the plates to nice tolerances on the mill once all assembled.







              Just ran the root weld on all the pieces today. I will be filling in with the mig.
              Andy

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              • we used to roll 1/4 steel plate the rollers were 8 inch in dia. and solid.

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                • Did a second and third pass with the mig today. Ran out of wire half way threw and had to pick up a new roll to the tune of $115. Picked up a new liner and some bits and pieces while I was there. All new whip and gun parts, she runs nice and smooth.




                  This was a scetchy setup but got it done.



                  Where I am at now, I was hoping to be onto boring the holes todayb ut the mig running out of wire set me back.




                  Lots to do yet. Still have to figure out what to do for a base. A small lathe bed would be perfect.
                  Andy

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                  • Originally posted by vpt View Post
                    ... Still have to figure out what to do for a base. A small lathe bed would be perfect.
                    The bed doesn't have to be that strong - all the major forces are carried by the end plates.

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                    • It was a boring day.



                      Bored, slotted, ready for the next stage.



                      Pressed the bushings in, did a mock up with the rollers, all looks good! 31" to the outsides of the plates.

                      Andy

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                      • Picked up some material and started in on making some blocks today. Couple more hours to do to them yet but they are close.







                        Yes I realize the slot is deeper on the left side than the right. That happened because I forgot I just roughed the vertical slot undersize, then after doing the horizontal slot I went back and did the finish passes on the vertical slot to clean it up and center it. I didn't go back and finish the horizontal slot then after that (yet). They have to go back in the mill for a bit of other work yet so I will straiten that out then. Noob stuff.

                        Andy

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                        • Made up side plates for the blocks. Drilled and tapped and installed grease zerks in the blocks, greases both the bushing and screw contact area. Just waiting for the threaded rod to come in. Have to make the upper plate/block that the threaded rod will thread threw and push on the roller. Then I need to think of a base/stand for it all.
                          Andy

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                          • Started in on making the upper blocks that the main screws will sit in. I didn't have a 1" tap or even a 7/8" drill to make the hole to tap. So a couple cheap ebayers are on the way.

                            But the blocks are made up and prepped.

                            If you know me, you know I always cut everything dry in my saw pretty much no matter what. Well this cut I turned the coolant on and made a mess out of everything.



                            Not to bad, the bulge in the middle is from me making a slight alignment adjustment to the cut half way threw.



                            Then machined all the sides and threw them in the vise at some random angle to chamfer the edges.



                            After that I drilled the holes for holding the blocks down to the roller end plates. I have to drill and tap the holes into the end plates, the center hole in the blocks, and at that point I could roll something if I can turn the rollers.
                            Andy

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                            • For the motor, I can't think of a good rpm (or dc variable speed) to shoot for. The rollers are around 4" diameter. Doing simple math in my head all day today I am thinking I would like to end up with around 30rpm on the rollers. That would be around 6" per second I guess. Is that too slow? I don't want it out of control fast, easy does it kind of stuff. I figure a 60:1 box with a 1750rpm motor would be about spot on? I also learned about 'instant reverse' single phase motors this past weekend. My gut tells me 1hp with the 60:1 might be enough. I know math can tell me exactly what is enough but I'm not smart enough to figure it all out.

                              I also had an idea for the stand for this thing. If yor don't know I have a "bender bench" that I bolt and keep most all of my benders on and their associated dies/bars/pegs/rollers/etc. However it is made of wood. The idea crossed my mind that I could rebuild this bender bench to accommodate the metal roller I am making now along with all my other metal form tools. But laid out better (now that I know more) and all metal. Like a whole nother project...
                              Andy

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by vpt View Post
                                For the motor, I can't think of a good rpm (or dc variable speed) to shoot for. The rollers are around 4" diameter. Doing simple math in my head all day today I am thinking I would like to end up with around 30rpm on the rollers. That would be around 6" per second I guess. Is that too slow? I don't want it out of control fast, easy does it kind of stuff. I figure a 60:1 box with a 1750rpm motor would be about spot on? I also learned about 'instant reverse' single phase motors this past weekend. My gut tells me 1hp with the 60:1 might be enough. I know math can tell me exactly what is enough but I'm not smart enough to figure it all out.

                                I also had an idea for the stand for this thing. If yor don't know I have a "bender bench" that I bolt and keep most all of my benders on and their associated dies/bars/pegs/rollers/etc. However it is made of wood. The idea crossed my mind that I could rebuild this bender bench to accommodate the metal roller I am making now along with all my other metal form tools. But laid out better (now that I know more) and all metal. Like a whole nother project...
                                4" rollers x's 3.14 =12.56" in circumfrence,so at 30 rpm you woud have 30 feet per minute roughly.Not a bad speed for a roller,variable speed would be nice though.You might need 2hp to make an electronic VS drive work though.
                                I just need one more tool,just one!

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