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Which of these two vises best for use with HF mill.drill

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  • Which of these two vises best for use with HF mill.drill

    Both are available locally at the stated price. Which is the better vise for milling usage? (if any difference). Would the rotating base make the one more flexible?
    To be used with a HF Mill/Drill. No smart aleck replies please.

    "Patriotism is the last refuge of a scoundrel"

  • #2
    I like the 4K type on the left.
    I have a swivel vise but I leave the swivel base off to get more 'Z' room.

    Looks like the Interstate may open wider.

    My Dad always said, "If you want people to do things for you on the farm, you have to buy a machine they can sit on that does most of the work."


    • #3
      Originally posted by jep24601 View Post
      Both are available locally at the stated price. Which is the better vise for milling usage? (if any difference). Would the rotating base make the one more flexible?
      To be used with a HF Mill/Drill. No smart aleck replies please.

      The Interstate vise looks like a Kurt clone. They pull the movable jaw downward to keep the workpiece flat. That would be my choice between the two.






      • #4
        There is a high probability for disappointment with either vise.
        My personal preference is the Kurt style on the right.


        • #5
          I think you will find the Interstate Qm16100 a better vice. You also have the option of removing the swivel base. Kurt seems to always be compared to other vices and the better ones are Kurt copies.



          • #6
            I have a vice like the Interstate QM16100. The first thing I did with it was take the swivel base off of it. After a thorough cleaning, I fabricated a positive indexing guide for the bottom and have been using it for years. It eventually got pretty nasty, and loose, so I took it apart for cleaning and adjusting, and promptly lost the half-ball that applies a load on the movable jaw. That's when I discovered it was a Kurt clone. Using Kurt drawings, I made a new piece (the original half-ball was too small to work properly), squared up the fixed jaw, and last but not least, painted it to match my milling machine (Krylon Cherry Red). It's back in service, better than new. And the Kurt clamp-down movable jaw feature works perfectly. Yes, I would buy another one

            Last edited by saltmine; 07-08-2013, 11:40 AM.
            No good deed goes unpunished.


            • #7
              The Interstate one is a far better design. It will hold the parts more square, has much more range in terms of size of parts that can be held. You can remove the swivel base for most operations, sometimes it comes in handy for cutting angles, etc. It's a simple matter to take it off or put it back on.
              Kansas City area


              • #8
                The clamp range of the Kurt clone is far superior to the older style on the left.
                You can move the jaws to the outside, using the same screws.
                The question is really which is better made /
                I was given a 4 inch Kurt style that was made in India.
                Took 12 hours of rework ( grinding) to bring it to some semblance of accuracy.
                The two jaws were out .017 of parallel originally . and the ways were not parallel to each other or the base.

                Drop the rotary table, makes the vise a warbler in many cases

                Green Bay, WI


                • #9
                  Question About Kurt Pull Down Feature

                  There are several references above to the Kurt pull down feature that seems to use some kind of semicircular device to pull the movable jaw downward to prevent tilting of the work. I am curious about this feature. Could someone explain how it works? A drawing would be nice.
                  Last edited by Paul Alciatore; 07-08-2013, 12:41 PM.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.


                  • #10
                    I have three "Kurt Clone" type vises in 4", 5", and 6". Here's a teardown of one of them showing the pull-down half-ball.



                    • #11
                      I agree that disappointment is likely from either vice. I paid a similar amount for my first vice and it was junk. The fixed jaw was 10 thou out of square from top to bottom. When I did my first cut on my mill I could visually see that the result wasn't square.

                      I spent just under 200USD for a "Vertex" brand vice Model VA4. The quality was good.
                      I have a number of Vertex items (from Taiwan) and they don't disappoint.
                      This did come with the swivel base, but I don't use it. It didn't mount well on my mill and takes up Z space.

                      Funnily enough the junk vice that came with my mill looks very much like the lefthand suspect and the Interstate is similar looking to the Vertex VA4


                      • #12
                        I've found that Phase II has some of the best import gear. I've been very happy with my 6" vise (and QC tool holder). I picked it up at their NJ warehouse and got a tour where the manager explained how he goes to China and evaluates the factories on their quality control.
                        Location: Jersey City NJ USA


                        • #13
                          I have had very good luck with Phase II over the years. I think they are a reliable quality import.
                          Kansas City area


                          • #14
                            Phase II and Vertex are both very good.
                            I have a Phase II AXA wedge, and it is awesome.
                            Wear parts are hard as the dickens.



                            • #15
                              Perhaps this will help. As mentioned, my vice is a Kurt clone, and whoever made the spherical element cut it too short. So, whenever I closed the jaws, the movable jaw would want to lift. Of course, when I took it apart, fo cleaning and adjustment, I lost the piece. So, I made another one from hot rolled steel and inadvertently made the new piece about .0625" longer than the old one. Once re-assembled, it worked perfectly. The "clamp-down" feature doesn't work if the spherical element is too short or missing.

                              Apparently, from what I've seen, the spherical element allows the nut to bear against the center of the movable jaw, pulling it down as clamping force is applied. Without the spherical element or with one that's too short, the nut bottoms out in the movable jaw and doesn't provide the downward clamping needed.
                              Last edited by saltmine; 07-09-2013, 10:46 AM.
                              No good deed goes unpunished.