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I made some machine skates...

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  • I made some machine skates...

    I saw this idea somewhere else. I thought it was nifty and simple, so I gave it ago.

    This is what I started with, some cheap bearings, 0-1 drill rod and some 1/2 flat bar.

    I first put on the bearing, peened over the edge, to retain the bearing.

    Lined it up for a tack weld

    The weld

  • #2
    I kinda cooked everything with the bearing preinstalled. I am not sure if I hurt them.

    So I welded the rods on 1st, then installed the bearings and peened.. Here are the 3 I made. I ran short of drill rod, due to excellent planning.


    • #3
      I would be worried the drill rod will be brittle now after welding.might snap end off.not picking on you.


      • #4
        Hey cuemaker ... looks like you could move a tank on those things. Get em under a machine
        and let us know how they work. BTW .. way to man up on admitting your mistake, a lot of guys
        wouldn't have mentioned that.

        John Titor, when are you.


        • #5
          Those welds will very likely break. Welding O-1 requires preheat and low-hydrogen rod. I learned this the hard way. A much better choice would have been 1018 turned ground and polished. Yes, you can buy it that way.


          • #6
            While we're at it- if those bearing shells are on the thin side, they will probably crack when there's weight on them. Better would be to make some collars to press onto them. 1/4 or 3/8 wall would be fine- I'd go with 3/8 for the extra flex resistance, and that would only raise the skates by 3/8 inch.
            I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


            • #7
              Cuemaker - were not picking on you, this entire place is for learning and I admire your efforts.

              but now I have to add my two cents - first off totally agree with all the above and esp. the thin shell of those rollers,,,

              but the "tapered" kind of peening that you did is also going to cause the bearings to bind when they are ever so slightly mis-aligned and they try to ride up the peen - better to have a 90 degree thrust shelf for them to engage instead of the taper - the taper will super load the thin shells to boot...

              now placing a washer that's the same size as the OD of the shaft on and then peening will work just fine...

              but you will still have the thin cups to contend with - they simply are not designed for that.
              Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 08-19-2013, 02:11 AM.


              • #8
                I think the peening will be your downfall. The rest of it should work OK - at least it did for this guy:
                Home shop machinists often run into the problem of trying to move heavy equipment around in their garage. Professionals do this with forklifts and machinery ...


                • #9
                  Hmm, I replied last night about the welding making thing brittle...I guess it didnt stick...

                  I didnt take into account the brittleness from welding. I guess we shall see what happens when I put my 3500lb Jet on them.

                  I was worried about the the "tapered peening" myself, but I did it as such that it hits the race. Yes, still swells before that, but I accept that.

                  I only made them for this move. So if they hold up for this move, then I am a wiener, if not, well then I try again and get to practice my welding some more.


                  • #10
                    I agree that the drill rod may be prone to embrittlment, another approach would be to use some 1" square , turn the ends to allow the bearings to just slip on , making sure to leave room for a washer held on with a countersunk capscrew.
                    bolt the shafts on and with some round turned to fit firmly over the bearings , held in place with Loctite bearing retainer.
                    You will then have a set of skate to last you a lifetime.


                    • #11
                      Hope for the best, but plan for the worst. Make sure that a failure of a bearing or skate doesn't result in the lathe on its side, or worse, on its side with you under it. Good luck with the move.
                      Weston Bye - Author, The Mechatronist column, Digital Machinist magazine
                      ~Practitioner of the Electromechanical Arts~


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Weston Bye View Post
                        Hope for the best, but plan for the worst.
                        As always!!

                        Mike, I like your idea.. A lot more simple. Wish I was smart enough to figure that out earlier.

                        The peening failing? Didnt think it would, but I can see that now you mention it..

                        Well, I am tempted to remake them...but will test them tonight as is....Lets see what happens!!


                        • #13
                          Cue maker, I think the preening fail was meant that the bearing will slide into the direction of the raised metal and lock up since the clearances will be gone.almost a sure thing . It will be frustrating to get it up on them and start to move and they lock up.


                          • #14
                            Wouldn't worry about the shells, guess they are bit softer after the welding, it's not like your going to use them as a street luge or wherever the things are called!, I would be impressed with a Bridgeport doing 45 mph down a hill though!, I'm sure it would end badly to sir johns pleasure, I'd be surprised if you managed 1m/min on the flat lol
                            A tidy job, the welds looked ok but you get the blowhole problem I usually suffer with the rods I keep in the garage, I just bought some electrode savers from the welding supply, screw top plastic ended tubes that I have a silica gel packet in the bottom of, works well so far
                            Well done


                            • #15
                              I don't mean to offend, but you should rethink this whole project.
                              Aside from the aforementioned improper choice of materials and welding,
                              needle bearings are not going to work for machine skates.