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OT (sorta) Engine pre-lube unit

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  • OT (sorta) Engine pre-lube unit

    OK, I know what this is for and why one would want to use one of these, but is the fact that he paid $1200 for this thing for real?

    Craig's list posting here

    I'm guessing he put that in there to help justify his asking price (along with the bit about the "aircraft aluminum", most likely "billet"...), but if you can actually get anywhere near that much money for one of these, there is likely a nice little sideline business in there someplace for the interested HSM who could build stuff like this. Many here could make these to order with relative ease. I'm not interested in doing anything like that, but someone plugged in that market could have some fun with it and make a few bucks, I'd guess.

    Just wondering if any of our resident car-guys have any comment...

  • #2
    ouch - yeah he really took it in the shorts...


    • #3
      Most people just use one of these:


      • #4
        Originally posted by Forestgnome View Post
        Heh, that looks a bit more like it. Last time I was messing with such stuff maybe 30+ years ago, I seem to recall the standard hack dodge was to cut the handle off an old screwdriver and chuck it in your drill. This looks like the high-class version of that.

        All that said this looks reasonably nicely homemade, and just looks like he is trying to get top dollar for it. A good capitalist, I guess.


        • #5
          Rednek, preventive bearing failure on an early Chizler hemi startup was to leave the plugs out, put the car in gear and roll up/down the driveway a trip or two. Watch for oil flow into the lifter area.



          • #6
            why wouldn't they just use the starter? oh - you did say redneck, never mind...


            • #7
              Im sure the guy that has to have every tool and better thsn his buddies may buy this when your not in any hurt for money but to make a profit i think would be hard since thetes so many cheaper ways to do this. Including a junk distributor that you take rotor and weights and stuff off and itll sit in the hole and be supported ,then spin with drill. Dont forget to grind off distributor gear teeth so they dont engage the cam.


              • #8
                I had a subaru that I was going to try to drive a million miles. I built a pre-oil pressurizing unit. It worked on compressed air. I opened a valve, oil flooded from the pressurized container into the oil galleries.

                Then start the car normally. Close the valve.

                The the oil pressure would refill the container through a check valve.

                Ready to repeat...

                There were issues. The oil would slowly absorb the trapped air, so I would have to recharge the container ~ once per month.

                I eventually sold the car because I got into biodiesel. New owner didn't want all the weird stuff on there.



                • #9
                  I operated it for an hour or so every other week sometime less often for about two years until I installed the engine in the car.
                  He probably changed the oil and filter every 3 months before he installed the engine in the car too.


                  • #10
                    There's 12 volt pre-primer pumps that you can add permanently on your engine and prime the system before every start,,, since the majority of main bearing and connecting rod bearing wear happens upon start up with no oil pressure it's not as crazy an idea as may initially sound,

                    but generally the engines I work on are still capable of 1/4 million miles and then some so at that point they usually need to come down for other reasons anyways (valves, rings ect.)...


                    • #11
                      The drawback to methods that involve turning the engine over in order
                      to drive the pump is that this defeats the purpose of pre-lubing: pressurizing
                      lubricant into the running clearances of shafts in plain bearings before
                      moving the shafts.

                      A simple shaft that reaches/engages the pump drive when the distributor is
                      removed has already been mentioned by alanganes. You can buy ready-made
                      shafts, sold as "Oil Pump Primers".

                      These work, but for engines like the SB/BB Chev which have the distributor shaft
                      passing through the right side lifter oil galley passageway, a better choice is a
                      shopmade/purchased tool that replicates the lower distributor housing so that
                      this housing seals the otherwise gaping hole and resulting leak on the right bank.
                      Pressure comes up faster and the lifters, pushrods and rockers on the right get

                      In either case, there is no need to run the pump for hours. A speed handle or a
                      drill used drive the shaft long enough to bring pressure up is sufficient.

                      An alternative is an accumulator. Would not be suitable for repeated use during
                      storage, but works well for pressurizing before start-up where engines are not
                      used for periods of time.



                      • #12
                        I've usually figured that you could prime the oil system through the pressure sender hole. You'd have to remove the sensor of course, or adapt a T with a one-way valve through which you could apply pressure.

                        If this device was to be permanently connected, then you would want to suck oil from the sump, which would mean finding a suitable way to add that port. Otherwise, I'd just have a portable unit that would connect to the one-way valve and suck oil from a fresh container- which you'd probably end up emptying into the engine after that anyway.
                        I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-


                        • #13
                          A good Moly based engine assembly lube is all you need - do common sense things like pre-filling the oil filter and keeping the plugs out for cranking up oil pressure, make sure you ground out your ignition coil spark plug leads or you could do damage to the EI module,

                          the engine is basically spinning fast and under no load (except cam related components) and usually gets pressure quick, then just toss in the plugs and fire in the hole...

                          start it up - a few nice little rev's and then dump the clutch in first gear to seat the con-rod and main bearing outer shells into their new homes and keep them from dragging

                          just a bad little habit of mine...

                          that along with tempting the engine re-build gods with the saying "what could possibly go wrong" just before I turn the key,,,

                          Im good to the point of being cocky, got bit by that one one time with an oil leak but fixed the leak and tempted the gods again with the same statement, they don't scare me one bit... they can piss up a rope...


                          • #14
                            priming during rebuild ..I do it like this .

                            At the stage even before the head was put on I fill the sump with oil...thru a funnel stuck into a oil return .

                            The oil filter is filled to the top and screwed on in this condition....i do this at every oil change as well.

                            Now that the sump is full and the filter is primed it will not leak back so easily .....then the main oil gallery can be primed ...this takes quite a while ...put a bit in ...go for a cup of tea...put another bit in ...etc etc...about 30 Min's ...till the oil gallery stops "winding" its self.

                            if you want something to prime it every time you start ..that's something else. But I would imagine most of the galleries are already full if you're driving the car within hours ..not leaving it weeks.
                            There's is only going to be one start every day when its "not so primed" the first one .

                            with the new synthetic thin oils will be on the job strait away within seconds .

                            what's going through my head is...with all the electronic gizmo's, catalysts and crap installed on a modern car failing ......after 60,000 miles ..never mind a'll wish you never had that car or bothered looking after it !!!..

                            All the best.markj
                            Last edited by aboard_epsilon; 08-29-2013, 03:23 PM.