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punch & die build (video)

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  • #31
    Nice video, I like the way you sped it up during machining operations, makes it look like CNC and nice machines too.


    Some suggestions:

    Use a stationary stripper, one that's mounted from above on the press frame. That way you can punch to the center of large pieces.

    Make your punches and dies with industry standard mounting diameters. In the USA standard Roper-Whitney style punches are commonly 1/2" and 1" shanks. Dies are various diameters, 13/16", 1-1/4" and so on up. That way you can use your setup with purchased standard punches/dies.

    Make your punches with a center point so they can easily be located over center-punched marks.

    Fasten your punches and dies into the holders with set screws that hit onto a "whistle" grind on the shanks for easy changing.

    Hole size is determined by the punch diameter. Slug size is determined by die diameter. Etch mark your dies with the nominal size and the clearance from nominal. Mark punches with nominal sizes.

    Usually you don't use the same punch/die clearance for a wide range of material thicknesses. Punching is a fracturing operation, a fracture starts on top with the punch, another starts on the bottom with the die. When the clearance is correct, those fractures will meet in the middle. If they don't meet nicely approx in the middle your clearance is wrong. Wrong clearance can result in premature wear and or breakage.

    When you're drilling in the lathe use a spotting drill instead of a center drill to start holes. Tips on center drills break easily and can be a pain to remove the broken tip.

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