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Gonna be a toasty one this winter!

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  • Gonna be a toasty one this winter!

    Picked this up today for 300 dollar menu items worth of cash. I think the reason the guy didn't use it much is because the blower fan and stoker vent were swapped around in the wrong spots. As soon as I got it home I stuck the blower fan wires in an extension cord and plugged it in. My buddy and I noticed it was coming out of weird spots and not the top vent like one would expect. Suspicious I built a small fire with some cardboard and then turned on the blower fan. Smoke pouring out all over. After much thought and inspection I came to the conclusion that the blower fan and stoker vents were taken off to get the unit in the basement of the house. Then when they went to put the two parts back on they put them accidentally in the opposite spots (blower in stoker hole and vise versa). I seem to recall the mans kid complaining about allot of smoke in the house and not much heat years ago.

    So I swapped those back around and all works great now, however I have a wiring dilemma.

    The blower fans wires were unhooked and pulled out of the box (I assume to get the unit out of the basement and no reason to hook back up). There is the power in line oddly using the black and red and not the white 110v. There is a black and red line out to nothing I want to assume missing stoker fan somewhere? And then a line out to the temperature control box. Finally a line down to a black box which I assumed the rear stoker vent is should be hooked up to?


  • #2

    This hole and plate is weird to me. It vents into the stoker plumbing of the furnace. The plate looks almost home made to me, should the stoker fan be here?The one wire out of the junction box reaches this hole nicely.



    • #3
      Last one I promise. lol

      This the top of inside the fire pit. Same picture as previous, just up.

      The fan controls. The original house thermostat seems to wire in with the stoker vent control wire. Not sure what the deal is with that.

      A little closer pic of the mess. The brown wire coming off the stoker vent control is cut, this is the one I assume went to the house thermostat?


      • #4
        Looks like a good unit, fully jacketed and with fire brick on the inside.
        Nice cast door and blower fan to boot. I like it.
        It even has a glory hole.



        • #5
          I am thinking of getting rid of the electronic air vent in the rear and installing a stoke fan in the front like many furnaces have. This whole vent deal on this thing looks like a headache.


          • #6
            Pulled off all the wires today and started over. Right now I just have the blower fan hooked up and the limit/fan switch drilled and installed on the side of the furnace. I also installed a on/off switch for the power coming in and installed a plug on a cord which plugs into an outlet for the unit. I didn't want it hard wired in case I have to move it for some reason, plus there was an outlet right there. lol I also plumbed the stove pipe up to the existing insulated stainless section in the wall. My old stove piping had a dampener in it, I am wondering would I still benefit from one with this new stove? It does not have a built in dampener.

            I am going to search out a draft inducer/stoke fan for cheap. But at least for now I can have heat again and mod it as I go. I am also trying to figure out what the little flap door on the front is for yet.


            • #7
              Does the little flap hole go into the airspace rather than the combustion chamber? It might have been for an optional flow sensor, air thermostat, or CO2 monitor to detect a breach in the firebox. The previous owner's comment that it leaked smoke when from what you suspect was incorrectly into the stokehole seems to indicate it is not adequately sealed and probably not designed for safe forced draught operation.
              A flue damper can compensate for excess draught with a tall chimney and be used for temproary flow control during stoking but otherwise it is safer to control on the air input to ensure all combustion products are properly exhausted even if adjusted by an unintended operator (child/wife).
              It looks like you might need another firebrick at the back to protect the rear steel plate from direct heat.


              • #8
                The hole in the front goes into the exhaust chambers, when the blower fan was hooked up wrong this was one of the places that was blowing out smoke. The only other place really loosing any smoke was the ash door a tiny bit.

                I was told a pipe dampener helps hold the heat in the stove better/longer.

                The original draft vent in the rear flows air around the outsides of the fire chamber and then out a gap at the front by the door. Nothing under the fire chamber at all.

                At the front and rear of the chamber between the firebrick is an extra plate that gets bolted on by two bolts and has around a 1" air gap between the fire side and the outside wall. Looking it over, installing a draft fan on the front between the doors like a normal unit the air would enter the space between this plate and wall and be directed down under the fire.

                If I understand the thermo switch right, the limit side is constant on and then gets cut off when triggered?