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Polar bear forge (GIB) 2 X 72 grinder in a box Finished!

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  • Polar bear forge (GIB) 2 X 72 grinder in a box Finished!

    This is what I have been working on for the past few weeks. Well…more waiting until I save up the money for the parts to finish it up.
    First let me say the GIB kit was first class. Everything lined up and made it easy to build. I changed a few things from how Polar bear forge shows to assemble it. Mainly I used a gas shock for the tension instead of a pull spring. It was a simple change and made a world of difference on tracking. There is lots of information on the web about doing this kit so I will not go too deep in to that.
    I will say this thing is a BEAST! I used a 2HP Baldor motor and you will have a hard time slowing it down. The variable speed from the VFD is also nice, I wasn’t sure I needed a VFD, but I’m glad I went that route now. All total I have around a $1,000 in the total build, BUT I had the VFD and the enclosure (compliments of my brother) so that eased the cost. That also includes the cost of the metal for the cart and other odds and ends that I could have gotten buy without. It still would have been around $800 – 850 or so. Anyway here are some pictures and I hope they inspire someone else to build one, it was a lot of fun.




  • #2
    A few more


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    • #3
      Nice grinder setup and shop.
      Make sure that VFD can get good, clean airflow or you may have problems before you should. I see a round hole in the side that is going to let metal dust in. If that is the only hole I would recommend cutting a hole low on one side and high on the other and cover them with furnace filter material. The boards in the PF may be conformal coated but not all component get coated and you don't want to let the magic smoke out.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by gzig5 View Post
        Nice grinder setup and shop.
        Make sure that VFD can get good, clean airflow or you may have problems before you should. I see a round hole in the side that is going to let metal dust in. If that is the only hole I would recommend cutting a hole low on one side and high on the other and cover them with furnace filter material. The boards in the PF may be conformal coated but not all component get coated and you don't want to let the magic smoke out.
        Sharp eye, that was a pic before I was completely done.
        Yes the hole is filtered now and an intake with a small computer fan pulling air in from the bottom. It is also filtered, but you are correct a lot of guys make the mistake of not using the correct enclosure. Metal dust and electronics do not mix.

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        • #5
          Nice grinder.
          Your 4 jaw is getting dirty, might want to move it.
          Gas charged lift struts should be installed rod down
          if possible (I used to make build them).
          I take it that the other workhead has the platten.

          --Doozer
          DZER

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          • #6
            I don't see a single chip on the floor of that shop! Where do you do all your work?
            Andy

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            • #7
              It looks like you have both the standard platen (on the cart) and the multi platen (installed)?
              Kevin

              More tools than sense.

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              • #8
                My kitchen doesn't stay that clean!

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                • #9
                  Please move that chuck ASAP! If you attempt to sand anything you will suffer severe regret regarding your chuck.

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                  • #10
                    Looks really nice. The gas strut is a highly recommended modification. I'm still using the spring on my kmg but might adapt it to a double strut design. What is the poundage on the strut?

                    What are the dimensions on the work table? Is is cold rolled?

                    Thanks

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Doozer View Post
                      Nice grinder.
                      Your 4 jaw is getting dirty, might want to move it.
                      Gas charged lift struts should be installed rod down
                      if possible (I used to make build them).
                      I take it that the other workhead has the platten.

                      --Doozer
                      Thanks for the tip. I will flip it the other way

                      Originally posted by vpt View Post
                      I don't see a single chip on the floor of that shop! Where do you do all your work?
                      You guys dont miss a thing . I cant stand to walk around on chips so I am good friends with a shop vac.

                      Originally posted by KJ1I View Post
                      It looks like you have both the standard platen (on the cart) and the multi platen (installed)?
                      Yes, when the pics were taken I had not made the wheels for the standard platen.

                      Originally posted by WhatTheFlux! View Post
                      Please move that chuck ASAP! If you attempt to sand anything you will suffer severe regret regarding your chuck.

                      LOL again nothing gets by.....I moved it and replaced it with my air spindle....Kidding. All of the things on the cart were for counter weight. I now have a sheet of lead that is encased in stainless. An old shielding door from work but its just about the perfect weight. All the weight keeps the cart still while grinding and insures I cant tip it over.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by PT Doc View Post
                        Looks really nice. The gas strut is a highly recommended modification. I'm still using the spring on my kmg but might adapt it to a double strut design. What is the poundage on the strut?

                        What are the dimensions on the work table? Is is cold rolled?

                        Thanks
                        40 lb strut.....the table is 6" x 24" 3/8 thick cold rolled.
                        The strut seems perfect it tracks very well with it. I have another fully adjustable table but since I can adjust the position of the platens I don't see much need for it. But I have it built if I need it

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                        • #13
                          My guess is when you actually start grinding with the thing you'll want to push against it and the whole table will want to move. You're depending on tiny caster locks for positional stability. I'd add solid screw-down feet.

                          metalmagpie

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by metalmagpie View Post
                            My guess is when you actually start grinding with the thing you'll want to push against it and the whole table will want to move. You're depending on tiny caster locks for positional stability. I'd add solid screw-down feet.

                            metalmagpie
                            Originally that was a problem; the other problem was how far forward the center of gravity was. I wanted to keep the wheel out in front of the cart as far as possible for dust collection and a water trough. Now that I have lead as a counter balance the cart and grinder together weighs close to 450 LB. It holds right where it is. With that being said I may still add the adjustable feet simply because my garage floor slopes to a drain and with the screw feet I wouldn’t need to be so particular where I set the cart. I made a heavy welding table and it needed the screws on the legs so I could level it up and keep it from rocking. My garage floor is about as level as the Smokey Moutains.

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