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I only know about the audi belts, there has been a progression since the audi 80 which was an in car change, ok you did have to remove the radiator, but not hard, as the design of the car called for more legroom the engine space shrank, its replacement the A4 reqired taking the front bumper, crossrail headlights rad and oil cooler out, you can leave the oil cooler connected and swing it to one side, but still a lengthy job.
A6 is the same, hard work!, premature belt tensioner failure is common and as all of them are interferance engines the valves will hit the pistons requiring a head job.
I learned the hard way that if your sticking it in a garage for change to use a paintmarker on bolts and screws, also on the belt, just pry the cover back a bit as its plastic and give the belt a dab or sqirt of rattlecan paint spray, they often take the car in and dont bother to do the job!, it happened to me, about 6 months after a suposed change the belt snapped, cost me an engine.
The garage insisted the job was done even though you could clearly see that there were age cracks in the belt, they basicaly told me to p off as i didnt have a leg to stand on and the belt i was holding was an old belt and not the one they had fitted.
Hence forth i do my own everything! Lack of trust evident.
Mark
Gates has a web site devoted to timing belt engines and indicates which few are interference engines and the majority that are not. My Sienna belt change was listed at 80k miles, and ran about $300.
The engine was non-interference.
Cummins!, i think?, I'm learning all about these thanks to several member here!
Mark
Ford is powerstroke.
With the cam on the 6.0 the brilliant engineers at navistar decided it would be cool to put the cam timing gears in the back of the motor. Then for good measure put a sleeve on the crank to cover the cam gear so you can't just slide the cam out without pulling the crank out. When the motors are assembled the cam is the very first part that goes in the motor.
Why do does the 6.0 have head gasket troubles? 4 bolts per cylinder AND those bolts pass threw (bolt down) three different types of metal...
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For your convenience, Andy. Ford built the Powersmoke so that the diesel mechanics in their dealers could afford to send their kids to Harvard.
It's common knowledge that any major repair or service work that needs to be done on a Ford truck with the diesel, requires the body be lifted off of the frame. And the Navistar engine is one of a very few that requires the engine be removed in order to replace a camshaft. That's nothing. Ford and Navistar parted ways, recently, and Ford designed and manufactured their own diesel engine. From what I've heard from the field, Ford engineers managed to match Navistar's reliability, and made them even more impossible to work on.
For your convenience, Andy. Ford built the Powersmoke so that the diesel mechanics in their dealers could afford to send their kids to Harvard.
It's common knowledge that any major repair or service work that needs to be done on a Ford truck with the diesel, requires the body be lifted off of the frame. And the Navistar engine is one of a very few that requires the engine be removed in order to replace a camshaft. That's nothing. Ford and Navistar parted ways, recently, and Ford designed and manufactured their own diesel engine. From what I've heard from the field, Ford engineers managed to match Navistar's reliability, and made them even more impossible to work on.
I also read ford says they don't cover fuel related problems with their diesels. Guys that have been threw the injector wringer with their 6.7's are very happy about it.
Belt change difficulty varies between vehicles. Some are easy, others are very involved.
Most VAG vehicles, you don't remove the front end, you simply unbolt it, screw in a couple guide pins, then slide the whole lot forward. I've done a couple, and once you figure out how the bumper actually comes off, the rest is pretty straight forward.
There was a trend back towards chains for a while, but due to ever tightening emission requirements, manufacturers are going back to belts, as they don't stretch like chains, so timing tolerances don't change. The latest thing is belts that run in oil, which I think it's VW are already using in one of their small engines. Claims are quieter running, less likey to fail, and increased service intervals.
Anybody who designs a car engine, the mechanical integrity of which relies on the integrity of a nylon reinforced rubber belt is an idiot! That is why European manufacturers are now going back to timing chains. My latest family drive is a Ford Mondeo (Mundano) which I bought mainly becausae it didn't have a timing belt. timing chains generally need checking and adjusting at 100,000 miles. I have been rebuilding wrecked engines caused by snapped belts since the seventies, time we went back to real engineering!
Hermetic, belts only wear on the outside/inside, but their length stays the same. Chains wear at every pivot, which leads to them 'stretching', and also chain guides wear far more than guide rollers.
Plus I hope you've not bought a 2.2. They're notorious for chain/guide wear leading to the timing jumping, and if it jumps more than a couple teeth, it's expensive. The old 2.0 were better, but they still had plenty other issues.
In the past year, I've seen far more chain related failures than timing belts, and that's dealing with stuff with a far higher proportion of belts than chains.
You want fun, look up the procedure to change a cam on a 6.0 powerstroke.
You want more fun, look up how to pull a camshaft out of an older Volvo 760 with the OHC PRV (Peugeot-Renault-Volvo) V6. The cams come out the back of the head and the procedure is to stand the engine/transmission assembly on end in the car. The front motor mounts are designed to swivel just for camshaft replacement.
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