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Throw it out and buy a new one.

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  • #16
    Just buy a new element. I have tried crimps, bolts, tig welding, etc. crimps and bolts create thermal issues. The chances are you will be inside there to repair it again in a couple months in the very least. While you are in there check the thermal switches and make sure they are in good condition, I have seen quite a few of these burn up.

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    • #17
      IF you can get a replacement element, they generally come compressed, like a tightly wound spring. Measure the total length of the old element carefully, and then stretch the new one to the same length. Prevents hot spots and such when installed, will last much longer.

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      • #18
        Coincidence, last night i was reading a 1954 Pop Mechanics and they mentioned a repair for this. Article stated to fasten the ends together, cover the joint with "Borax" then turn the power on and the joint will fuse back together.
        Wonder how well this really works?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by YukonHam View Post
          IF you can get a replacement element, they generally come compressed, like a tightly wound spring. Measure the total length of the old element carefully, and then stretch the new one to the same length. Prevents hot spots and such when installed, will last much longer.
          This heater came as an assembly. The guy at the store said they used to get just the elements and install them but then run into other problems lots of times with the ceramic holders breaking and connection problems at the terminals and people not stretching the elements right like you mentioned leaving hot spots.

          Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
          Coincidence, last night i was reading a 1954 Pop Mechanics and they mentioned a repair for this. Article stated to fasten the ends together, cover the joint with "Borax" then turn the power on and the joint will fuse back together.
          Wonder how well this really works?
          You know this sounds familiar. Not sure if it was with a dryer element or something else but the borax and "turn the machine on" is what I remember from something. But like I said I believe one element was bad for quite some time and got real rusty. I would almost bet anything that if I made it work again it would burn out in many other spots.
          Andy

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          • #20
            Your'e probably correct Andy,not worth patching it up then have to tear it apart again. I HATE appliances!! LOL

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            • #21
              Looks more robust than our European offerings we have here ..our heating elements are usually in a little tin box about 7 x 3 x 3, but very cheap to replace, can be had for under £10.
              Knowing what I know, I would chuck the thing out and if available on your side ..buy a condensing dryer .

              As these (in the winter) have a dual purpose ...all the waste heat will heat your house ..meaning you're not chucking the waste heat out of a hole in the wall.
              edit ...having said all that, I see that there also European ones that are like a giant cooker hob solid element.
              but as for my advice on condensing ones , I'm sure is this is the way to go . if you have expensive electricity in your parts ..UK price is about £0.15 pence per kwh..Most dryers have a 2.0 -2.5 kw heater in them ...so depending on the heat setting can cost up to £0.45 per hour to run with the motor adding to it.

              all the best.markj
              Last edited by aboard_epsilon; 12-06-2013, 10:56 AM.

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              • #22
                Did you get the dryer repaired and running again. At one time they were selling a dryer heat vent that sent the heat into the room and not outside.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by kbertoson View Post
                  At one time they were selling a dryer heat vent that sent the heat into the room and not outside.

                  The problem with them is that you are also dumping lots of water into the house, not to mention the lint that is not caught in the lint trap.
                  Hi, my name is Wilson and I am a tooloholic.

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                  • #24
                    Me thinks you could wire up 3 or 4 red-eye
                    range cooktop elements in there and have
                    a more robust element system. I think
                    red-eye elements are like $8 at Home depot.
                    Might make a good retrofit and last longer.

                    --Doozer
                    DZER

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                    • #25
                      Heat in winter does get dumped in the house some. Great way to bring the humidity back up some.

                      Andy

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by macona View Post
                        The chances are you will be inside there to repair it again in a couple months in the very least.
                        Everything comes from the same factory in China and has a different label slapped on it. My old dryer looked the same internally. On mine the value engineered for profit, rear bearing went out. That's a pretty simple and cheap part and I probably could make my own if I wanted. The problem is when the rear bearing goes out, the tub tips forward and both makes a hideous noise and destroys the complicated seals/bearing thing at the front of the tub. After replacing the back bearing the front seal will still grab and rip up clothes. Yup the tub is only supported at back hurray for value engineering. Anyway the front bearing/seal apparatus is like $100+ on a $300 discount dryer its not worth it and there's no way I could make an entire new injection molded front of the dryer.

                        Or the TLDR is while you're in there, replace the rear bearing before you get stuck having to replace the whole front of the dryer.

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                        • #27
                          My rear bearing is an oillite bush in a swivel housing ...not on its schedule or anything ..but every couple of years I have to service it ..or it locks into one position in its housing...then the drum locks! ....last time I used ptfe high melting point grease ..its been four years now and no trouble .



                          The condensing dryers have a container for the water and a removable lint filter . the container, when full, stops the dryer and puts a neon light on .the water container needs emptying every 2 - 3 cycles, the lint filter needs cleaning after every drying cycle.

                          it has a removable aluminium condenser that I have to remove and flush through every 20 or so drying cycles ...I flush it in the bath because there is enough room under the taps to get it in ..as it I measures about 16 x 12 x 4 inches

                          condenser part 146.
                          water container part 346

                          Last edited by aboard_epsilon; 12-08-2013, 10:23 AM.

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                          • #28
                            That is very interesting! I remember Evan posting a heat exchanger he built for his dryer and I have been thinking of doing the same thing.
                            Andy

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                            • #29
                              That heat exchanger above. That I called a condenser ..works in cycles by the dryer taking cold air from inside the room ....so cooling it down ..then after a say 20 seconds blowing cold air through it, it blows the warm air from inside the drum over it ..

                              You could have a condenser as in the picture hung on the wall further up ..by running cold water through it. maybe using a gas boiler matrix as the condenser.

                              one of these things with cold water going through it



                              all the best.markj




                              all the best.markj

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by aboard_epsilon View Post
                                That heat exchanger above. That I called a condenser ..works in cycles by the dryer taking cold air from inside the room ....so cooling it down ..then after a say 20 seconds blowing cold air through it, it blows the warm air from inside the drum over it ..

                                You could have a condenser as in the picture hung on the wall further up ..by running cold water through it. maybe using a gas boiler matrix as the condenser.

                                one of these things with cold water going through it



                                all the best.markj




                                all the best.markj
                                I've read your description over and over....at least a half dozen time and I'm still confused. One thing I do know is a condensor is used to change a gas to a liquid...but I'm ignoring that thought and just thinking heat exchanger.

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