Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sharpening Carbide Tip Saw Blade

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Sharpening Carbide Tip Saw Blade

    I've been tossing around the idea of setting up my T&C grinder to sharpen one of my 10" carbide tipped saw blades. I have the fixtures to do this with but since the grinder doesn't have a tilt head I'm not sure if I'll be able to acomplish this set up. Unlike sharpening a plain milling or slotting cutter where you grind the top relief of the tooth on the saw blade you have to grind the face which will sharpen the three sides of the tooth. The blade will have to be mounted horizontal in order for the cup wheel to make proper contact. The other problem is how to set up the tooth rest. Has anyone done this before??? I'll see if I can get some pictures to post

    JL........................

  • #2
    I know you want to use what you have, but I bought a blade sharpener from HF that works well and intend on making some changes to it to try and do milling cutters for my horizontal. It's on sale right now. http://www.harborfreight.com/120-vol...ner-96687.html


    bedwards

    Comment


    • #3
      Maybe i'm missing the point here, but could you mount the blade at 5 (or whatever) degrees?
      You may need a thin diamond wheel (like a cut off wheel) and set your table stop just shy of the
      gullet.

      Do every other tooth then set blade 5* the other way?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
        .................................................. .................................................. ............. Unlike sharpening a plain milling or slotting cutter where you grind the top relief of the tooth on the saw blade you have to grind the face which will sharpen the three sides of the tooth. ......................
        Is that the way it's done? I'll have to look at a freshly sharpened blade, I assumed a good sharpening job hit the tooth top in addition to the face. Otherwise if there was a micro chip on the top edge (very common) you'd have to grind far back on the face to eliminate it.

        Comment


        • #5
          I've written a short article about carbide saw grinding and have it on my website. This is essentially a copy of my responses to this same question on this and other forums.

          http://www.auldooly.com/sawtips.html

          I realize that I need to change the colors in the bottom drawing...the red and magenta are hard to tell apart.

          Comment


          • #6
            The HF sharpener is set up exactly the way I had visualized setting up the blade on my T&C grinder except I would use a 3" cup wheel.
            I have to ask...... is there anything under the edge of the blade to give it support???? A 10" blade is going to have a bit of flex and will want to ring and vibrate when the wheel comes into contact with the tooth. My guess is there is going to be the need for something under the blade close to the edge where the toot to be sharpened is to give support and dampen vibration. I can actually achieve the same set up with my T&C grinder.
            But what I don't want to do is use the saddle infeed to sharpen each tooth, it shold be done by traversing the table as in a normal grinding operation, that's a sticking point for me here. The other thing is I'm not sure where to mount the finger stop. I can't mount it on the same table surface as the blade fixture or I won't be able to index the blade, I think the finger will have to be mounted on the grinders head so when I move the table back the finger will clear the blade allowing me to rotate to the next tooth.

            Tony, yes I can mount the blade at 5 deg. either side of center by tilting the fixture. I know that on this combination blade I have a straight top tooth and a left and right angled top tooth, so there is going to be 3 set up operations for the one blade.

            DR, I believe on milling cutter you only need to touch the top of the tooth to sharpen it as most of those cutters have teeth that taper or are so to speak "hollow ground" so all that touches when you cut with them is the tip, the sides are clear. With the saw blade I think it's different for reasons of the blade binding.

            John, that looks like an informative article, I'll have to study it this evening.

            JL....................
            Last edited by JoeLee; 12-12-2013, 02:59 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              A couple corrections to my above post.
              I did check some of my plain milling cutters and the teeth do taper from top to bottom by about .0015 to .003 depending on the cutter.
              So does the saw blade so I may be able to get away with just hitting the top of the tooth but I think with the saw blade the face should be ground.
              The other thing I notices is even with a cup wheel I won't be able to get into the face because the teeth are too close together, at least on this 60 tooth combination blade.
              I'll have to find a diamond wheel with a different periphery as the one shown in bewards link.

              JL.......................

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JoeLee View Post
                The HF sharpener is set up exactly the way I had visualized setting up the blade on my T&C grinder except I would use a 3" cup wheel.
                I have to ask...... is there anything under the edge of the blade to give it support???? A 10" blade is going to have a bit of flex and will want to ring and vibrate when the wheel comes into contact with the tooth. My guess is there is going to be the need for something under the blade close to the edge where the toot to be sharpened is to give support and dampen vibration. I can actually achieve the same set up with my T&C grinder.

                JL....................
                No, there is nothing but a large washer in the center. I depends entirely on the blade itself for support. I believe it would not be hard to improve on, I just haven't had time to. I did sharpen all my old blades with mine when I got it but haven't tried to figure out how to move up to milling cutters with it.

                bedwards

                Comment


                • #9
                  The stop could be a flip up or down, spring loaded plunger, or pawl.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    can you use this?

                    http://kaindl.de/de/home-featured/di...-d126-tin.html

                    i made an adapter for a bench grinder.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That is exactly what I have and use Dian.
                      How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Some supplemental info that might be useful.

                        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZljcS...bHnGHtiJcG4sDw

                        If you are in Canada CTC has some blades that could work.. (Princess Auto is a source also)

                        http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/to...l#.UqtmyYaEjIU

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          incredible. is the guy grinding on a table saw?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            That's called improvising....................

                            JL....................

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X