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2pt Epoxy in Syringe Dispenser - Shelf Life after 1st Use ?

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  • #16
    Well waddya know- my epoxy is from Bob Smith Industries.
    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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    • #17
      I've been dealing with a company named Fasco for years in S. FL. The man that founded the company was a chemist and I spoke with him several times. During one of our conversations he told me that if you have epoxy that gets hard in the container it's till good. All that need happen is to warm it in the microwave. I've done this and it works well. I have epoxy that is probably 20 years old that is still good. Although I haven't tried it, the new company owner told me that metal cans of epoxy can be warmed in the microwave by putting the metal container inside a plastic one. If you do heat epoxy to rejuvenate it just be certain not to over heat it, only warm it and leave the container open so it can vent. Also be aware that if you use it warm it will set up faster.

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      • #18
        Devcon has an incredible selection of epoxies.
        Want to patch your bronze propeller while underwater?
        You get a choice of freshwater or saltwater and fast or slow cure.
        And it gets more exotic than that.

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        • #19
          We use the twin syringe at work, and shelf life depends on the last person that used it. If they were CAREFUL to get the cap back on correctly (instead of backwards), and not cross contaminate when wiping off the tips, all is well. It will live to fight another day. If it was Chris or Bob, it's a goner.
          I'm here hoping to advancify my smartitude.

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          • #20
            Whenever I use one of the twin tube deals, I cut them in half with a jewelers saw first. Then I can easily apply equal amounts from the individual syringes. The viscosity of the two is different and therefore they do not dispense equally. I do try to avoid using them though.

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            • #21
              There's a trick when you squeeze out the stuff to smear off perpendicular to whatever flat surface you're mixing on, and if you cross the streams like Ghostbusters then its a goner. Never let a droplet of the monomer or the catalyst get a mm closer than they were in the package, ever, then it'll last for years and years.

              After maybe 3-5 years, either opened or wasting away on the retail shelf, the monomer starts thickening up, you'll lose some strength but probably not enough to matter. The catalyst usually doesn't change characteristics as it ages, and it doesn't seem to lose potency.

              I store all my tools and stuff by activity/project not by type like a central glue storage, so I've had plenty of experience with old epoxy and I'd say hardening will be the least of your concerns, the unholy mess of a single or dual leak is a filthy toxic waste nightmare. You're probably about 5 times more likely to open up a box and find a puddle, or worse, other stuff embedded in a solidified puddle, than to find a hardened double tube. You can put a rubber band on it, which will get brittle and snap and there's a puddle. I end up with a loop of small solid hookup wire twisted into place to clamp it, not very elegant but it works. That and put it in a plastic bag or a little kitchen tupperware box to contain the inevitable leak.

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              • #22
                I use "Post-It" note pads to mix small batches of epoxy. Just tear it off after using and you have a new clean surface for next time.
                RWO

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                • #23
                  Mixing Epoxy, My Method

                  1. Use a pad of sticky notes (usually the 2" x 2" size) for a disposable mixing surface and the back end of a six-inch, cotton swab with a wood stick for mixing it (Photo 1).

                  2. Squirt the required amount of each part of the epoxy onto the note pad, either with a twin tube dispenser or from separate tubes.



                  3. Use the rear end of the cotton swab to mix the epoxy. Use two actions in order to get a complete and uniform mix. First, mix for a few seconds with the stick at a shallow angle (10 to 25 degrees) to the pad (Photo 2). Second, lay the swab’s stick down flat on the pad and push the partially mixed epoxy back to the center using a contra rotational action on the swab stick to sweep the edge of the pad clean as you do this (Photo 3). Do each of these two actions in turn for three or four cycles until the epoxy is completely mixed. Using several of these mix and scrape cycles insures a through and uniform mixing with no pockets of unmixed epoxy or hardener remaining on the pad.



                  4. For many applications where the epoxy needs to be precisely applied, the stick of the cotton swab makes a very handy applicator. A volume of epoxy can be scooped up on the side of the stick and spread uniformly over an area (Photo 4). You can rotate the stick while in contact with the epoxy to get a uniform layer all around it. Or a small drop can be picked up at the tip and dabbed onto the parts (Photo 5). The small stick of the cotton swab can reach into most holes to apply the epoxy inside them. Or they can be coated with epoxy and used to wipe it uniformly around a cylindrical part. If you need a really small dot of epoxy, you can pre sharpen the end of the swab’s stick to a point, before starting (Photos 1 & 5).

                  5. When the epoxy is applied and the parts are laid aside for hardening, lay the end of the swab's stick in the puddle of remaining epoxy (Photo 6). You can then use it to easily judge when the epoxy has hardened without sticking your finger or something else that must be cleaned, into it.



                  Using a fresh piece of paper towel or rag for each part, wipe the excess epoxy or hardner from the openings of the tubes. For twin tube dispensers, wipe once only with each fresh towel or rag to prevent cross contamination. Replace the cap or caps on the epoxy dispenser(s). Be careful to place the correct caps on each tube, otherwise the epoxy will harden in the throat of the tube and it will be useless. If you are using a twin tube dispenser, LOOK before trying to recap it. It is easy to get the cap backwards and once the hardener in the cap hits the other tube, it will harden it. More than once I have had to throw away a twin tube that had been recapped improperly (by others, of course).

                  When I store epoxy and super glue, I take care to store the tubes or other containers with the openings facing UP (Photo 7). This prevents the adhesives inside from oozing out and hardening. This is especially effective for longer-term storage of super glue because it leaks out very easily if the opening is horizontal or pointing down. I have stored open tubes of super glue and epoxy in this manner for over a year and still been able to use them.



                  If you are as frugal as I am, break off the protruding length of the cotton swab, which can be used at a later time for a cleaning or other task (Photo 6). Tear off the top sticky label sheet with the leftover epoxy and discard it. Or perhaps someone can find a use for even that: if you do, please share.

                  This method has been used successfully on all types of epoxy that are supplied as thick liquids. By following these procedures I have been able to reliably dispense and mix small to moderate quantities of epoxy and successfully store the remainder for long periods for later use. The epoxy and super glue I used for the above photos were both first opened well over a year ago and both are still just fine for use.
                  Paul A.
                  SE Texas

                  And if you look REAL close at an analog signal,
                  You will find that it has discrete steps.

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