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How Would You Make This: cutting a disk into a BIG flycutter

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  • #16
    Try this, drill clearance hole through rotor for nut and bolt, drill hole through bolt for round toolbit, drill and tap for grubscrews to hold toolbit, grind small flat on toolbit, grind tip of toolbit as cutter
    Mark

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    • #17
      My mill has an M3 taper, but no matter- what I did for one of my homemade adjustable boring bar holders was to machine the body so it would snugly fit the OD of the spindle- a light press fit. At the same time, I bored it to fit the stub on an M3 adapter. I mounted the adapter with a drawbar, then heated the body of the holder enough so I could ram the spindle down onto it and have it seat on both the spindle nose and the M3 arbor. Once cooled, the arbor became an integral part of the body. Now when I mount it, the end of the spindle itself adds rigidity to the setup.

      A further benefit is that because my spindle has a pair of slots milled across the end, it creates a place for a locating pin. I don't have to worry about my arbor spinning in the taper.
      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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      • #18
        I still don't have a clue how I'm going to hold a tool to a brake rotor, I love the idea but I just don't see it with the maybe 1/4" top and bottom surfaces and fins in between... am I missing something?
        if the top and bottom are connected by fins the way I think they are...make a "slug" to fit between two of the fins and fill up the space (thickness) between the top and bottom surfaces, fasten that to one or both of those surfaces and then treat is like a solid. Boslab's suggestion accomplishes the same thing with less grief IMO. WAG but with all the insert tooling out there it may almost be possible to "fit" (as in jam/force) the shank of some smaller size between the upper and bottom surfaces (now how you get the angles all correct so as to properly cut...hmmmm...

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Toolguy View Post
          I have run large flycutters on Bridgeports lots of times. The main thing is to have it well balanced. You can get an R8 arbor for a shell mill and machine the center for a close fit on the arbor. Mill a slot across the hole for the drive keys and a counterbore for the bolt to hold it on. Drill a vertical hole near the edge for a 1/2" brazed carbide tool and drill and tap for a setscrew in the edge of the flycutter so it pushes the tool against the back of the hole. Use a tool with a 45 degree point similar to a threading tool. You may want another hole exactly opposite to put a balancing weight in if needed. As long as everything is balanced and running smoothly it will work fine.
          Do what Toolguy said . That is the way I would do it ,and have many times . Have a 12 inch one I use at work made the same way. Can load it up with 4 tools at once if needed. Just run it slow in back gear and take no more tan about .010 cuts. works good. my disk is 1 1/4 thick aluminum.
          Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
          http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
          http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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