Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

First attempt at acetal nut

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • First attempt at acetal nut

    Tried making a nut for my 5 tpi 7/8th in lead screw.

    1st one .. reallllly bad.

    2nd one .. just bad ..

    believe I am starting out with too much of a gap between the two halves.
    I heated it lightly with a torch till it got soft and came together.
    one big problem was when done the hole was NOT in the middle.

    didn't notice it till I put the thing in the lathe and rounded it off all nice and all ..
    took it out and looked at it and the hole wasn't even close to the middle.

    don't have a 4 jaw so couldn't dial the hole into the middle. and don't have
    a 5 tpi acme bolt to hold the nut to put in my 3 jaw.

    gonna keep working on it ..

    Mike A
    John Titor, when are you.

  • #2
    Hi Mike
    I think you are supposed to chuck up the screw while the nut is still attached and true it up. If the screw is for the cross slide, lock
    it up using the gib and adjust with the compound.
    Location: Long Island, N.Y.

    Comment


    • #3
      not sure what you mean by " lock it up using the gip and adjust with compound"

      the leadscrew I am forming it on is my X for my mill and its like 4 or 5 ft long ..
      a little afraid to put that in my lathe .. but that sure would work

      Mike A
      John Titor, when are you.

      Comment


      • #4
        Take care not to put too much heat in to the screw - don't heat the nut directly either. You should follow Evan's guidelines and bore the ID to the diameter of the screw less the thread depth then the material displaced by the thread crests is the right amount to fill the troughs. The cut through the middle should also be one thread depth wide, do it by stacking hacksaw blades or file some off whilst measuring the half-nut thickness.
        You'll have to trim it upon the screw or you'll never get the ID and OD co-axial.
        Last edited by Peter.; 01-24-2014, 03:26 AM.
        Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

        Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
        Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
        Monarch 10EE 1942

        Comment


        • #5
          Curious about one thing with making an acetal nut... anyone know/have a ballpark idea of how thin you can go for the wall thickness surrounding the final threaded area? Something like "X" times the root and crest dimensions/thickness.?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by caveBob View Post
            Curious about one thing with making an acetal nut... anyone know/have a ballpark idea of how thin you can go for the wall thickness surrounding the final threaded area? Something like "X" times the root and crest dimensions/thickness.?
            It depends on if you put it in a metal sleeve or not. Machinery handbook may have the formula.

            Comment


            • #7
              Just a quick follow up. I finally am getting it. I find that NOT getting the torch
              so close that it sets the ends on fire reallllly helps.

              Am having trouble getting the nut to be so tight though. Have done the freezing
              and cutting half threads to act as cutters. Getting looser but still pretty tight.

              Mike A
              John Titor, when are you.

              Comment


              • #8
                I use a hot air gun on the screw only. That gives a more controllable heat source.
                Kansas City area

                Comment

                Working...
                X