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Dividing head question (another one, sorry about that).

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  • Dividing head question (another one, sorry about that).

    I am adjusted the backlash on my dividing head and am getting to set up for cutting a gear or two.


    Along with the dividing head came a 3 jaw chuck and a morse taper centre with a clamping device that fits on a parallel section of the centre and provided for driving a lathe dog.

    What puzzles me is that the use of the centre and a lathe dog apparently relies upon the morse taper not slipping. Is there a way to positively lock the morse taper? (It has no thread for a draw bar)
    Last edited by The Artful Bodger; 02-08-2014, 04:25 AM.

  • #2
    Don't mean to talk down to you but do you know how to seat the morse-tapered center? You sort of "slap" it into the female section with force. It locks itself into place and once firmly seated it will not move. To get it out you hit it with something sticking through the spindle hole from behind. I'm not sure I understand your question but if I do here's where I think you might be missing the whole point (no pun intended) - the center and lathe dog is intended for use with a mandrel not a chuck and you need to support the other side of the mandrel with a tailstock center as well. With the tailstock squeezing it I think it is obvious that the center cannot come out. Since this is self evident I am assuming you mean something else. Did your unit come with a tailstock? If not the center they sent you is superfluous.


    EDIT: I just took a look at a picture of your dividing head (as posted in your first thread) and I have almost the exact same dividing head - mine is a Yuasa. The chuck would fit over the protrusion at the front of the dividing head and is bolted to the backplate. It does not interact with the center if that is what you are asking.


    http://www.warco.co.uk/138-1166-thic...iding-head.jpg

    The tailstock is the thing on the right.
    Last edited by DATo; 02-08-2014, 09:45 AM.

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    • #3
      I have an "L-W" 6" swing DH, with which I have cut many gears using the system you describe.



      This DH uses a B&S taper, which I believe is even shallower than a Morse, ans so is more self-holding. But even a morse taper is good for holding.

      It is best if you use a tailstock, because that will help avoid the taper socket being "rattled loose", which can happen due to vibration, and cutting forces. With my setup, the DH typically goes on left, but table travel is to right, in the loosening direction. Even so, with tailstock, I have never had an issue.
      1601

      Keep eye on ball.
      Hashim Khan

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      • #4
        Originally posted by The Artful Bodger View Post
        Is there a way to positively lock the morse taper? (It has no thread for a draw bar)
        Don't you have a welder?
        How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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        • #5
          Thanks for the advice and it all makes sense and the B&S taper explains why no other Morse taper centres fit in the hole!

          DATo, thanks but I didnt know that was how to seat a taper, I though the procedure was to 'wring' them into place.
          (Dont laugh, I am a retired software engineer and just about everything I know about the machines in my shop I learned right here!)

          Black Forest,

          John.

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