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  • brush cutter repair.

    I am trying to put together a brushcutter that does not work. Problem is it is in a million pieces. It is an fs stihl 280. I have bought a generic piston and cylinder and seals and bearings. They did not have a gasket set. I know nothing of small 2 stroke engines so I am hoping for some guidance.Can I use gasket sealer on the crankcase? Or will it be better to cut a gasket out of gasket paper. Can gasket paper be used for the head as well or is it a special type of paper for the heat. Things like the muffler gasket ,what can I use. It is a long week end untill Tuesday here in S Africa and I wanted to get as much as possible done on it.
    Also is it necessary to do a pressure and vacuum test on it as I dont have such equipment Is there a way around this?
    I looked on the arborsite .I started to suffer from overload as the site is huge but there is very little info on brushcutters. If any one knows of a thread of maybe a chainsaw rebuild that is similer to a brushcutter it would be much appreciated. If any one knows of a download of the workshop manual I would be really happy
    Thanks Eugene

  • #2
    "I am trying to put together a brushcutter that does not work."


    Why not try to put one together that does work?
    Location: The Black Forest in Germany

    How to become a millionaire: Start out with 10 million and take up machining as a hobby!

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    • #3
      After you tell me what to do I hope it will work

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      • #4
        here's what I found with a search on "bing" there must be something here you can use. . . . .
        there are some good high temp gasket "goop" on the market, possibly in your area. it probably won't hold the temperature of your exhaust. nor will plain gasket paper, possibly you could smooth and level the mating parts of the exhaust and that would at least minimize the leaks. I hope this helps you.


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        • #5
          In a past life I was a Stihl certified tech. And.. 25,000 posts on AS but I'm not active now.

          Use 0.5mm gasket paper for the case and head. If not, your clearances will be wrong. The exhaust gasket needs to be some type of heat resistant material - cut one out of a non-metallic car gasket if you have too.

          I'd do a pressure and vac test, but all you are really testing is your seals and gaskets, and with "new" you have little chance of failure unless you mess something up.

          Can't you contact a Stihl dealer in South Africa and have them post you the gasket parts?

          BTW, go back to AS and search for "Stihl Mediacat CD" in a thread from a user called "fish". That's the service CD that dealers get. It expires every year but there are work-arounds
          Last edited by lakeside53; 04-18-2014, 12:28 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by lakeside53 View Post
            And.. 25,000 posts on AS but I'm not active now.
            What is AS?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by BigMike782 View Post
              What is AS?
              arborsite
              https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIF...7S66kX1s8rd0qA

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              • #8
                Permatex high temp forms-a gasket is commonly used on small engine assemblies. The pressure and vacuum test is very necessary to confirm that the engine will be runnable.

                I did design engineering and technical service support for Shindawa, a manufacturer of commercial trimmers and brushcutters.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Joe_B View Post
                  arborsite
                  Ahhhh......makes sense,Thanks

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                  • #10
                    Make that Arboristsite

                    http://www.arboristsite.com/community/

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                    • #11
                      Lakeside I see that you are just a youngster in terms of posts here at home shop machinest with only about 4800 posts. Wow but on arborist I see you are close to 25000.I hope to ask a question as I just cant seem to find the info.I tried to find the manual but I will give up on that.I was supplied two sealed bearings at $3 a pair. My mate reckons that the bearings should not be sealed as the oil petrol vapour mix is what lubricates them.
                      Is this true.?
                      I also bought a generic cylinder head called raisman and the piston looks beautiful. I am concerned that there may be a sequence of what ring is top or bottom but there is no discernible difference in looks.Also the cylinder looks poorly hard chromed I almost wonder if it is hard chromed at all.I know I should probably stick to buying at stihl but the prices are outrageous and I have no history of this machine as I received it in a box in pieces.I am also trying to figure a way to pull the crankshaft into the housing without banging it in with a hammer as it seems the crank shaft could go out of alignment.

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                      • #12
                        No sealed bearings - they will just trap the junk behind the seals and have lousy lubrication. If they are the correct size, just pop the bearing seals out and use them. I assume you have real shaft seals? BTW.. Stihl bearings have a larger radius on the center section (to not stress the crank and to fit to the crank buttress) and are typically C3 fit - "looser then normal" (to allow for slight compression with the hard the case and shaft fit). Generics seem to works in many case but select them with care.


                        Ring position are not important - both are the same.

                        Cylinders... yep.. you get what you pay for; sometimes you get lucky and sometimes not. Clean up any obvious burrs etc around the ports with a stone before use.

                        Piston - if you can, get the OEM wrist-pin clips. The supplied aftermarket with ears are problematic.

                        Never bang the crank with anything; you will mess up the bearings. Heat the housing and the bearings will drop in. The crank is PULLED though the bearings with a threaded puller, but you can probably press one side with an arbor press - carefully. Be sure to figure out what to backstop if you are pressing - the bearings are easily damaged and they have to run at 10-14K rpm. The second side can likely be pulled together with the (or longer) case screws if you are VERY careful and apply equal pressure in tiny increments.


                        Find an FS250 manual if you can't find the FS280 - it will be similar. Someone on AS will be able to find you one and email it.
                        Last edited by lakeside53; 04-19-2014, 11:15 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks Lakeside. There is some interesting info there.Maybe some of it is not want I want to here but will be useful on my next rebuild as I have 3 more of the same machines. I will buy the original stuff from now on. I didnt realize these things rev so high. I found the bearings I used were very tight to install in the housings and unfortunately I installed them before getting your feedback so they are sealed as I have closed the crankcase up.I have learnt something new about bearing fits.I hope to get this brushcutter running and it was a good learning curve.
                          Thanks once again. .

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