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Welding bandsaw blade along it's length - annealing?

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  • Welding bandsaw blade along it's length - annealing?

    Hi folks,

    I seem to be going through a lot of these HSS multicutter blades, they look a bit like this but with hacksaw style teeth - http://bladesave.co.uk/ebay-v3.0/pro...de_1pk_500.jpg

    I've now got 3 blunt ones lying around and they're bloody expensive to replace.

    Thinking about grinding the teeth off/flat all together then TIG welding on a section of bandsaw blade (I've got one which was newish but snapped). I guess the bandsaw blade is probably bimetal but I'm not sure.

    I'm wondering if the weld heat will anneal the HSS though? If so how would I reharden it?

    Cheers,
    Rich

  • #2
    I would think that the chances of success are pretty low and I would expect the welding heat to over harden the blade and make it brittle, like what happens when you use a blade welder. Annealing the blade just enough to remove the brittleness and still leave the teeth hard enough would be tricky.

    If you have a newish blade that snapped. Find someplace with a blade welder that can re-weld it. As to welding, it matters whether the blade is bi-metal or not. So you need to find that out.

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    • #3
      Give it a shot, grind off the old teeth and butt weld a section OD band saw blade. Don't do a continuous weld but say tack it in three place to minimize the heat. You'll find the answer then. Let us know if you're sucessful. Bob.

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      • #4
        Like Bob suggested but maybe grinding matching bevels in the 2 pieces and $ilver-brazing them together with a couple pieces of copper or aluminum clamped on the teeth as a heatsink? That should work, no?
        Milton

        "Accuracy is the sum total of your compensating mistakes."

        "The thing I hate about an argument is that it always interrupts a discussion." G. K. Chesterton

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        • #5
          How about sharpening the existing teeth? Make a lap with the correct profile out of brass and use diamond paste in various grits.

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          • #6
            Id try Dickybirds suggestion too, silver solder is strong enough to join a bandsaw blade
            Mark

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            • #7
              How about regular solder with a large lap joint? that would keep it at only a few 100c peak temp. I doubt the forces are going to overcome a 2" x 1/2" solder lap joint before snapping the blade.
              Play Brutal Nature, Black Moons free to play highly realistic voxel sandbox game.

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              • #8
                Long ago I new two tool & die welders that could weld bandsaw blades on demand.

                Most of the comments here might change if the commentors had successfully welded
                scores of bandsaw blades, using the blade-welder on the side of the saw.

                In doing so one begins to understand the fundamentals needed to weld blades at all.
                Then comes understanding of the annealing. After hundreds one adjusts and perfects the anvils
                and clamps on the blade-welder. He then experiments with preload, heat settings
                and how much lenght to preload.

                In my case one day I realised that if I 180'd one end to the other and end~ground them
                held together the matching faces will be perfect every time.

                I then began to anneal less in each direction from the weld instead of just following the settings chart.
                In watching the Old Man weld blades I new he must have put allot of thought into his technique,
                or he also had welded hundreds of blades with the blade-welder OR was just a Natural as some are
                and could weld a pop-cycle stick to a guitar pic first try if they conducted electricity.
                Last edited by Old Hat; 05-24-2014, 07:14 PM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Black_Moons View Post
                  How about regular solder with a large lap joint? that would keep it at only a few 100c peak temp. I doubt the forces are going to overcome a 2" x 1/2" solder lap joint before snapping the blade.
                  You know, you might be right, and that would be easier, but in the past every time I've tried to solder parts (other than electrical wires) it just has not worked at all.

                  I don't know if I have the wrong solder or flux or what, but the solder tends to just turn into balls and sit there, or not flow in to the joint area.

                  Thanks for the tips folks, few things to think about here.

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                  • #10
                    Unlike bandsaw blades, those cutters are designed to cut in both directions. I doubt a bandsaw blade work work very well unless you are just cutting drywall.

                    Tom
                    Tom's Techniques

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