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QC tool golder for Griz Lathe.

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  • #16
    Can I throw out one my question: I've got the lathe installed, and it basically says to lubricate the ways with Vactra 2, but use ISO32 oil in the ball oilers, including the two on the apron that look like they really lube the ways. Also the lead screw/feed rod oil points don't apear to accept a whole drop of oil- I'm wondering if there is a problem. Are we using ISO 32 oil because vactra is too thick without a pump?

    BTW if there is a 4003 owner- I find the following oil points on my lathe:

    3 on tail stock
    1 on carrage (apron?) feed
    2 on lead/feed screws.
    3 on compound
    3 on cross slide
    2 on carrage/way contact points

    This is 14, the manual says there are 15 points. Am I missing one?

    Thanks guys

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    • #17
      Originally posted by pturner View Post

      This is 14, the manual says there are 15 points. Am I missing one?

      Thanks guys
      Yup!
      Remove the cover on the right side of the feed/thread selection levers and you will find the one they hid when turning the 4003 into the 4003G. Mill off some of the cover so that you can gain access.

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      • #18
        Thanks. I don't feel bad for missing an oiling point hidden under a cover. But it was driving me nuts that I'd be running the lathe with zero lube on some point.

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        • #19
          I wish you well I know if I had that lathe it would bring me a lot of fun.I hope sincerely you have a lot of great times with it in the years to come.A lil beauty as the Ausies say LOL Alistair
          Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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          • #20
            So how do you like the 4003G? Been looking at that one for a year now.

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            • #21
              I'm thinking about making a QCTP for my HF 9x20, although it is a smaller model similar to the G4000. I see that there are compatible toolposts available from Little Machine Shop: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ory=-419988835

              I'm not sure that I trust an aluminum tool holding system, even if it is hard anodized 6061, and I would make it from 1045, 1215, or 4140 steel. It looks like the piston type clamp would be easier to make than the Aloris wedge. I'd like to get good drawings or dimensions of the existing toolholders so I might be able to make mine compatible.
              http://pauleschoen.com/pix/PM08_P76_P54.png
              Paul , P S Technology, Inc. and MrTibbs
              USA Maryland 21030

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              • #22
                I'm very happy with it so far. I've yet to do any serious turning (which is why I'm stil figuring the lube out) I center drilled and turned steps on some pins. Ir was a chalange getting it up on the stands, but that's behind me. I mounted it on 8 vibration isolating leveling feet, so we'll see how I like that. If I wasn't 6-3 it would be too high , I think. I taped off the electrical box to add coolent later if I so choose.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by MetalMunger View Post
                  Yup!
                  Remove the cover on the right side of the feed/thread selection levers and you will find the one they hid when turning the 4003 into the 4003G. Mill off some of the cover so that you can gain access.
                  Is this just a hole drill at an angle above the feed rod? That all I saw and there was a hole for the feed rod, but not a matching one for the lead screw.

                  Thanks

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                  • #24
                    O' what fun you found the hidden oil port above the feed rod (this was an exposed point when the gear head was shorter and without the cover in 4003 version). All else is lubed in that area by the 2 holes in the cover labeled "Oil Nipple" and go through to the original holes. The other almost secret lube point is on a gear on the banjo you need to remove the rear cover to oil, a short piece of tubing run to the front takes care of this.
                    Now that you probably have run the break in procedure in the manual and done some test cuts it would be a good time to drain the gear head clean out all the nice metal shavings wipe the cavity clean, check the oil galleries above the main bearings to make sure they are clear of any debris and place about 8 Neodymium magnets in the sump to scavenge future shavings. Plan on changing the oil again in 6 months. Before you refill the head with nice fresh oil you will have figured out by the mess that you made draining the original oil that maybe you might want to install a drain valve.
                    Also while the gear head is empty check the gear clearance and that no gears are rubbing for all speed selection points some adjustment may be required.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by MetalMunger View Post
                      Before you refill the head with nice fresh oil you will have figured out by the mess that you made draining the original oil that maybe you might want to install a drain valve.
                      I have wondered whether it is possible to make that a bit less messy by sticking some clay on the side of the machine and forming it into a spigot.

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Glug View Post
                        I have wondered whether it is possible to make that a bit less messy by sticking some clay on the side of the machine and forming it into a spigot.

                        I used a funnel notched to fit flush against the headstock with the tip kicked out about 30 deg. A hose goes down to a 1 gallon jug. Only issue is the X sectional area of the funnel spout was less then the area of the drain plug, so the funnel tended to fill. Love to tap it to an NPT and add a ball valve.

                        MetalMunger, I'm going back down to the lathe to hunt down oiling point #16. Not able to picture in my head why the back cover comes off, but thats the fun of playing lathe scavanger hunt.

                        I picked up a 5 gallon bucket of machine oil, so I'm set for relubing.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by pturner View Post
                          Love to tap it to an NPT and add a ball valve.

                          MetalMunger, I'm going back down to the lathe to hunt down oiling point #16. Not able to picture in my head why the back cover comes off, but thats the fun of playing lathe scavanger hunt.

                          I picked up a 5 gallon bucket of machine oil, so I'm set for relubing.
                          Check to see that your drain plug is not in fact 3/8" or 1/4" NPT! That translates into 8mm / 10mm pipe fittings in PRC Metrification or close enough for the girls I go with.

                          Lube Point is shown on Page 27 of the manual Figure #34.

                          The "Hidden Lube Point" is shown in Figure #35 same page. They were to lazy to update the manual so they used a picture of a G-4003.
                          Last edited by MetalMunger; 11-28-2014, 06:05 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by MetalMunger View Post
                            Check to see that your drain plug is not in fact 3/8" or 1/4" NPT! That translates into 8mm / 10mm pipe fittings in PRC Metrification or close enough for the girls I go with.

                            Lube Point is shown on Page 27 of the manual Figure #34.

                            The "Hidden Lube Point" is shown in Figure #35 same page. They were to lazy to update the manual so they used a picture of a G-4003.
                            None of those pages or figures match up with my manual. The secret oil spot it that a cross drilled hole on a collar behing the banjo pivot?

                            I'll check on the drain plug, maybe it is 1/4 NPT. I've got a fresh batch of Chevron GST-32 in there now, so I'll probally wait but have the fitting on hand. I chunked some rare earth magnets in there tonight.

                            Thanks Again,
                            Pat

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by pturner View Post
                              None of those pages or figures match up with my manual. The secret oil spot it that a cross drilled hole on a collar behing the banjo pivot?

                              I'll check on the drain plug, maybe it is 1/4 NPT. I've got a fresh batch of Chevron GST-32 in there now, so I'll probally wait but have the fitting on hand. I chunked some rare earth magnets in there tonight.

                              Thanks Again,
                              Pat
                              hmmm.....
                              Checked the Grizzly site for the manual seems I have a 1st edition bleeding edge of the spear I guess but I did pay $1,400 less than the current price.
                              The cover page of manual now on line that it is for models made after 7/13.
                              Put oil in that cross drilled hole if it goes away it is still an oil port if it stays full they switched to a sealed bearing.

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