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  • Boringhead Holes

    Guys
    I have a 2" boring head.
    I know what the vertical holes are for but what is the horzantal hole for? If I insert boring bar the head has to be ran in reverse. Head is threaded so running in reverse is not a option

    ------------------
    George
    Remember the early bird gets the worm, BUT it's the second mouse that gets the cheese.
    George from Conyers Ga.
    Remember
    The early bird gets the worm, BUT it's the second mouse that gets the cheese.

  • #2
    One thought: one can insert a long rod
    to give torque and assist in unscrewing
    the boring head from its mount. You could
    still enlarge through holes with short
    boring bars inserted from the L side looking
    down from the top rear of the setup. It would
    cut from the trailing edge and limit the
    depth of cut but would work. I have seen
    round HSS cutters in occasional catalogs
    also from which a cutter could be ground
    with the correct geometry.
    Steve


    [This message has been edited by sch (edited 05-13-2004).]
    Steve

    Comment


    • #3
      HI George

      You can make up an adapter to take standard RH boring bars, or get hold of a LH boring bar, trouble is they are never the right length.
      I normally make a steel bar of the length needed for the job in hand, and then use a small HSS or carbide bit held in a hole at the outboard end with a set screw.
      Ten minutes at most and you have the tool for the job, you can also use the same bar for the normal vertical mode as well.

      Phil

      Comment


      • #4
        George,

        I don't have one and have never used one but I imagine you could grind a boring tool with the proper geometry for mounting it sideways. It should be almost a mirror reverse of the standard ones. Probably have to rethink the angles a bit for proper rake and clearance.

        I have hesitated to buy a small boring head as I know that as soon as I do, I will need a bigger one. If you can use a side mounted tool, that would greatly improve the range.

        I'm curious to see any other replys.

        Paul A.
        Paul A.
        SE Texas

        Make it fit.
        You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!

        Comment


        • #5
          I just stick a hung of square tool steel ground to the appropiate hand in the cross hole and bore away.

          Comment


          • #6
            I made a left-hand boring bar by brazing a bit of carbide onto a piece of drill rod.
            ----------
            Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
            Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
            Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
            There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
            Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
            Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

            Comment


            • #7
              Criterion makes special left hand bars to use in the cross hole.

              Of course, you can make something as others have said, but you also have the option of buying one specific for the application.

              I'm as tight with a buck as the next guy, but sometimes I find it pays in the long run to buy a ready made one.

              Comment


              • #8
                Various ways.
                As Forrest says you are not limited to round stock. I have used ordinary square lathe tools of the right hand in the cross hole.

                Some of the sets of boring bars for boring heads, not the cheap 9 in a set chinese, but the better quality inserted cutters usually have one machined the opposite way just for this purpose.

                The real class boring and facing heads come with a shed loat of extra's.
                On of these is to increase the range using the cross hole but still keeping to standard cutters.




                A good set usually has about two or three of these in different lengths. Bear in mind thes boring and facing heads start at about 1K and can get up to as much as 6K for a good set.

                There is nothing to stop you copying the idea though and use it on the cheaper heads.

                John S.
                .

                Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                Comment


                • #9
                  I hate you John. I've drooled about having a gorgeous Wohlhaupter head like yours for years but could never justify one.

                  Now I see that you have one. If I'm going to keep parity with you in the cool stuff war I'm gonna have to get one ("cool stuff" is a zero sum game, right?). One thing after another. Sigh.

                  For you that may have never seen one, a Wohlhaupter boring head is so beautifully made and the parts assemble and fit so nicely the net effect on appreciators of fine appratus is almost hypnotic.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Whoa Forrest, That's not mine.
                    I scanned it in out of a J&L flyer just to show the square holder.In any case it's a Narex and not a Wohlhaupter.
                    It's an advertising shot to show what can be done with one like undercutting, snap ring grooves, internal and external, and even taper turning on some.
                    The top of the range Wohlhaupter have 16 speeds for auto traverse.......drool......
                    I'm with you here Forrest..........

                    I do have three boring and facing heads, a small Kaiser, a medium sized Narex and a whopping great Bonehan and Turner but non of them have this square holder hence the scanned in picture.
                    Some one has promised me one for the Narex but at the moment with these three heads I can overlap in sizes although the B&T head is far to big for the Bridgy and has a INT 40 taper to fit the big mill.
                    The other two have home made tapers for either R8, INT 30 or INT 40.

                    John S.


                    [This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 05-13-2004).]
                    .

                    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you guys would be so kind to post a pic of the Wohlhaupter head (with all accessories of course). I'd like Evan to see it so he can build me one! You know... in his spare time!!! LOL!
                      I have tools I don't even know I own...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        At work they threw a Wohlhaupter in the scrap bin. I was all over it but didn't find all the accessories. Thing is it was a large one with a 5MT so I gave it to a buddy who has a large CNC mill. It sure was purty though.

                        Jon
                        Jon Bohlander
                        My PM Blog

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I forgot to say my Flynn has a square broached in the side hole so it can take 1/2" sq or 5/8" round.

                          At work someone made up some adaptors to use small square HSS in the boring head. Very handy for O-ring grooves.

                          Jon Bohlander
                          Jon Bohlander
                          My PM Blog

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I cleaned and loctited the heck out of my boring head at work,run it in reverse all the time with a bar stuck out the side hole,never been a problem,even cutting through keyways,course I did also armstrong it tight
                            I just need one more tool,just one!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              In an earlier post I mentioned boring out a BP angle head to fit my mill. Thats what I did, stuck out the back of tool and run in reverse. Since then I have got my Narex head up and running. Its complete with original box and all acessories. I had to make an adaptor plate to accept an R8 spindle (original was Int 40) Of course I can,t use it to its rated capacity, but what possibilities I have now. I also have an Enco 3-1/2, three speed with R8. Now I need more boring bars. !/2.3/4 and 1in.I almost think the aquisition of tools is more fun than making chips. Not really. Doug

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