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A new engine for fall---

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  • #76
    Okay Folks--It's opinion pole time!!! This morning as I was going through the model adding all of the bolt holes, I decided I didn't like those yellow angle end supports. A bit of quick modelling gave me the flat plate base as you see it here to support the engine instead of the angle plates. Since the engine has a dry sump, I don't have to contain any oil in the crankcase. True, it exposes the spinning crankshaft and con rod, but any-one who sticks their finger in there would pretty well have to do it on purpose. I like this new base better. I want to know what you guys think. Do you like this plate base better or the yellow angles as in previous versions I have posted.
    Brian Rupnow
    Design engineer
    Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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    • #77
      I would go with the plate base. Looks cleaner and allows you to see what is going on in the engine.
      Larry - west coast of Canada

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      • #78
        Hi Brian
        The angled block is definitely more visually appealing. Leaving the sides open allows someone unfamiliar with engines to see how rotary motion can be
        converted to linear motion. I like it.
        Location: Long Island, N.Y.

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        • #79
          I like the plate. I also like GM adjustable ignition (1965 V8 vintage) points so you don't have to fab the timing adjuster. Under $6 US in the states. Some come with the condenser built in for a bit more cost. Edit: (Assuming you are not too concerned about dwell angle).
          Last edited by dp; 08-05-2014, 01:44 PM.

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          • #80
            I may have miss it,but how are you planing to oil the piston?

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            • #81
              Originally posted by OKChipmaker View Post
              I may have miss it,but how are you planing to oil the piston?
              I will be running a Viton ring, so will be running a 30:1 mix of 2 cycle oil with the naptha fuel.
              Brian Rupnow
              Design engineer
              Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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              • #82
                Okay--The plate gets it by a mile, from all 4 websites I post on.---A plate it will be!!!
                Brian Rupnow
                Design engineer
                Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                • #83
                  For those of you who have been asking about how I will adjust the valve lash on this engine----This is it. The "tappets" will be of 3 piece construction, having an internally tapped bottom that will ride on the cam, an externally threaded top section which rides against the end of the valve, and a lock nut. The bottom section of the tappet is 5/16" diameter, and is hardened "01" steel. the top portion will also be hardened "01" steel. The internal thread is a #10-24. I left the cylinder head off in this model so you can see that I plan on using pressed in valve cages.----Brian
                  Brian Rupnow
                  Design engineer
                  Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                  • #84
                    Well Sir!! I think that just about covers it!!! Oh, I've got to so something about a place for my started spud so I can use my variable speed drill as a starter, and probably add a few keyways and bolt holes, but I think the overall design is 99% done. everything on there I have built before on my previous 7 i.c. engines, except for perhaps the adjustable tappets----and that doesn't look like brain surgery. I think this will be a really neat project for a new engine this fall, and as usual I will be posting the engineering drawings fro anyone who wants to join in the fun. I guess my next step will be to make a list of all the bushings and bearings and go have a chat with my bearing supplier.---Brian
                    Brian Rupnow
                    Design engineer
                    Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                    • #85
                      Hi Brian
                      Only mentioning this because you ask about looks earlier (baseplate) but the exhaust pipe might look nicer tapered or with a flare at the end.
                      Location: Long Island, N.Y.

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                      • #86
                        I am going to "borrow" the crankshaft design from Malcolm Stride's "Lynx" engine. The crankshaft will be made up from individual components which will be silver soldered together. However it will remain as two totally separate assemblies. The 1/2" shaft with keyway, the counterweight/web and the 1/2" diameter rod journal will be one assembly. The other end of the crankshaft will be 3/8" diameter and consist of only the shaft and the counterweight/web. This second counterweight/web will have a 1/2" hole reamed through it, which the rod journal will pass completely through, ending flush with the other side of the counterweight/web. The rod journal will be made from "01" water hardening steel, which will be quenched immediately after silver soldering to harden it. Both ends of the full crankshaft will be supported by two bearings, to prevent any potential misalignment. (The crankcase and outboard bearing support will be assembled, doweled, and all bored in one set-up.) This arrangement will allow me to use a sealed roller bearing on the big end of the con-rod. The width between the counterweight/webs when all is assembled is sufficient to allow a .015" thick spacer washer on each side of the con rod bearing.
                        Brian Rupnow
                        Design engineer
                        Barrie, Ontario, Canada

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Hi Brian
                          I have a couple of observations on your last drawing with the head removed.
                          I am assuming the cylinder barrel is one piece and the green and copper colours are just for illustration.
                          Do you use head gaskets on these engines?
                          If so having the fan support shaft in that position might present a problem when it comes to the crush on the head gasket.
                          Otherwise looking good.
                          Larry - west coast of Canada

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                          • #88
                            Cuttings--I do use a flat head gasket between the cylinder head and the cylinder. The fact that the fan shaft appears to extend into the gap between the head and the cylinder is one of the "logistics" I have reference to in that post. The red and green portions of the cylinder are two separate parts. If you don't understand how that can be, then take the time to go back and read all the posts.
                            Brian Rupnow
                            Design engineer
                            Barrie, Ontario, Canada

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              This morning I got bored!! Daughter is getting married next week---whole week will be crazy. Customer is squealing like a pig wanting me to come over to his factory and do some design on a new machine, but I can't because I'm waiting for a courier to bring me a new Solidworks disc. A friend wants me to machine some mounts for his new fishing downrigger but I'n waiting on material.---And yesterday I just bought a second house!!!--However, being stuck between all things and unable to do any of them, I decided to machine something this morning.----So---I rooted around in my scrap bin and found a piece of aluminum big enough to make the spacer bar that fits between the backplate and the crankase on my fall project engine.
                              Brian Rupnow
                              Design engineer
                              Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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                              • #90
                                Sent out a list of bearings and bushings for the new engine to my bearing supplier.--Wouldn't you know it----Their system is down!!---I may just go upstairs and drink wine for the rest of the day!!!

                                REQUEST FOR PRICE AND DELIVERY
                                ONE—SEALED NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING .25” I.D. X 0.478” O.D. X 0.375” LONG #SCE46PP INA
                                ONE--- SEALED NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING .375” I.D. X 0.563” O.D. X 0.5” LONG #SCE68PP INA
                                TWO SEALED BALL BEARINGS ½” I.D. X 1.125” O.D. X 0.5” LONG #R1616-2RS RBI
                                ONE OILITE BRZ. BUSHING 3/8” I.D. X ½” O.D. X 1/2” LONG
                                ONE OILITE BRONZE BUSHING 3/8” I.D. X 5/8” O.D. X ¾” LONG
                                TWO—OILITE BRONZE BUSHINGS 3/8” I.D. X ½” O.D. X 1” LONG
                                Brian Rupnow
                                Design engineer
                                Barrie, Ontario, Canada

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