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  • Sharing tips. Page 1 no pics just links.

    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-14-2004 03:49 AM

    Whilst looking for a picture to send to someone I spotted this one:-

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens.../thinstock.jpg

    So I thought I post it as a tip.
    Sorry to some people if it's obvious and you have been doing this for years but it not aimed at you

    The vee blocks hold the small piece very staedy and the jack screw stops the vise jaws twisting.
    Hope it helps and I hope others will pass their tips on.

    Note to Neil.
    ANYTHING I post on this list I declare it to be public domain and can be used any way anyone wants to including reuse if

    source is mentioned.

    John S.


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-14-2004 06:41 AM

    Good tip John,
    And an even Better one is the sticker on the machine!!

    Herb Helbig
    Member posted 05-14-2004 10:12 AM

    John - As the picture painted itself down my screen, I spotted the jack screw and thought, "I bet that's not the tip, but

    what a great idea!" Then the vee blocks appeared, confirming my guess, then the text displaying the full measure of your

    genius.

    My little JET hor/vert bandsaw has its vise disappointingly far from the blade, so I've drilled holes for hold down clamps in

    the table and made an insert for the slot beneath the blade to provide support under small workpieces.

    I like to remove as much metal as possible with the saw before letting my mill/drill chew on a piece.

    Thanks for the tips! My vise will soon be drilled and tapped for a jack screw.


    davejeske
    Member posted 05-14-2004 11:13 AM
    Great, simple idea. My beater import saw sees an upgrade in the future. Thanks
    dave


    George Hodge
    Member posted 05-14-2004 10:57 PM

    John,I drilled and tapped a hole in the bed of my saw so that I can use my mill table hold-downs to secure odd shaped

    objects. I also have the screw and knob which is very handy.


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-15-2004 05:09 AM

    Next one:

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...nder%20mk2.jpg

    This is for finding the centre on centre punched work held in the 4 jaw chuck.
    Simple to make. It's a piece of bar, hex in my case as it was lying around, one end turned to 1/2 to fit the tailstock chuck

    and then a hole about 3/8" drilled in to near where it's turned down.
    There is a 1/8" hole then drilled in from the 1/2" end until it opens up. Then you take a piece of 1/8" drill rod or silver

    steel, sharpened at one end and secure it into the body. The small set screw is visable just in front of the Jacobs chuck.

    The purpose of the 3/8" hole is to give the drill rod a bit of leeway when it runs out, it's not critical on size.
    A bit of a bracket welded or brazed on and a dial gauge fastened on to bear as close to the end as possible.

    In use you put the drill rod into the center popped hole and turn the chuck round by hand, watch the clock and adust just as

    you would if you were running the clock on the outside of the work.
    Works with odd shaped pieces you can't clock up normally.
    Takes literally seconds to set up if you can leave a clock still fastened and can swop around between diferent machines.

    John S.


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-15-2004 08:12 AM

    John
    Please, keep them coming!!
    all the best
    e


    gunsmith
    Member posted 05-15-2004 06:32 PM

    Thank---------- you ----------John


    irnsrgn
    Member posted 05-15-2004 06:57 PM

    This is my remedy for making angled cuts in the bandsaw without moving the stationary vice jaw and spending a lot of time

    lining up the cut and then realigning to 90آ؛. It is quick, and is marked for 45آ؛,22آ½آ؛ and 30آ؛ on the radiused locking arm. If

    you do any odd cuts frequently,just mark it when you get it set. Just set it drop over the stationary jaw, tighten the vice

    and cut. The pictures are pretty self explanitory.

    http://img27.photobucket.com/albums/...w_angle_01.jpg

    http://img27.photobucket.com/albums/...w_angle_02.jpg

    http://img27.photobucket.com/albums/..._angle_03a.jpg

    irnsrgn


    G.A. Ewen
    Member posted 05-15-2004 08:12 PM

    irnsrgn, Very neat saw accessory.


    charlie coghill
    Member posted 05-15-2004 10:09 PM

    I liked the angle setter,but I also liked the rollers to. I use one roller on a stand. I will check to see if your idea will

    work on my saw.
    Charlie


    PSD KEN
    Member posted 05-15-2004 10:13 PM

    Excellent! Keep'm coming, need all the hints/tips, I can get.


    Maker
    Member posted 05-16-2004 01:15 AM

    Hey guys,

    Great ideas! Thanks for sharing them. They are now officially on 'THE LIST OF THINGS TO DO'

    Alex


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-16-2004 02:16 AM

    First off my apologies if some of you have seen these before, many haven't.

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...s/milltray.jpg

    This is the way I mount all the vises on my machines. Just a simple shhet metal tray with holes in for the thru bolts and a

    couple more in line to drain the coolant back into the Tee slots.
    I usually drop a samll piece of gauze over these if I remember.
    These trays make it easier to clean and keep the tee slots and coolant return pipe from getting blocked.
    This isn't a staged shot but an actual job where the cutter was taking 1/4" of the steel block in one pass.

    John S.


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-16-2004 02:41 AM

    Old end mills, what to do with them?

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...ldendmills.jpg

    Far left is one with chipped teeth ground back to make a small countersink or de burrer.

    Either side of centre are two worm cutters that have been ground back to form counterbores.
    You need a T&C grinder or toolpost grinder to do the spigot work but I always back the teeth off by hand with a small dremel.
    I like these as I have a commercial set but the commercial ones always have a large clearance spigot and many times I like to

    keep a tighter hole in jobs for cap screws.

    Far right is a two flute cutter that's been backed off freehand and one chipped flute taken away all together. Result is you

    now have a very nice boring tool for lathe or boring head.

    Second from right, again two flute cutter backed of to produce the shape freehand, no special equipment needed.
    This is for removing broken centre drills.
    We all break them, usually when rushing.
    If you do, support the job as rigid as possible either close into the chuck or in a staedy and with this cutter in the

    tailstock chuck and plenty of cuting oil feed it in to produce a groove around the broken centre drill.
    Back off and with a small punch you can then snap off the centre pip with the broken drill in it.

    Last tip for which there is no picture is the centre drills themselves. Nowdays these are cheap and can be classed as

    throwaways. They usually break before they wear out anyway.
    Why then do they make them with such a long pilot diameter?
    It's always on this point they break.

    Now when I get a new drill out the box I shorten it down to at least half it's length on the pilot diameter.
    You still have a few regrinds left and it's not that short as to allow the centre to hit the bottom. This makes it far more

    rigid and you now have a chance to wear this out instead of breaking it.
    Some of mine are now a few years old, something unheard of before the way I charge around

    John S.


    moldmonkey
    Member posted 05-16-2004 08:00 AM

    Something similar we've done at work is to turn a old endmill into a O-ring cutter for a dedicated size. We grind the center

    out leaving two "horns" of the right width for that size of O-ring. The horns are like grooving tools. Sorry it's hard to

    explain and I don't have a picture.

    Great thread, these tips sure get you thinking and lead to even more applications.

    Mr. Stevenson, Congrats on the nice mention in Model Engineer Workshop about your hobber.

    Jon Bohlander


    RPease
    Member posted 05-16-2004 08:47 AM

    John,

    A question on regrinding end mill cutters......

    When I regrind them (especially so radically), is it necessary to "re-heattreat" them or are they sufficiently hard

    (throughout the tool) to eliminate this requirement.

    I'm presuming "good quality" cutters to begin with. Not sure what one might expect with "low cost, foreign" cutters, but you

    might have some opinion on this.

    I suppose I could try it and see (for myself), but I suspect you have already encountered these issues.

    Thanks. I enjoy all your contributions........

    Regards,
    Rodger


    spkrman15
    Member posted 05-16-2004 09:09 AM

    This is a great thread! I wish i had something usefull to add. Here is one i hear but i don't remember where.

    Don't throw out bearings or their races. They make great spacers as they are prcision ground and hardened. I keep a couple

    around. Just make sure they have the exact same # on them. If not they might be different

    Rob


    suprdvn
    Member posted 05-16-2004 09:39 AM

    I like your vice tray John. I have a vertical knee mill cnc with a coolant pump. I haven't used the pump yet because I have

    no containment yet. I will need higher sides though for higher RPMs.
    I am considering something removeable & possibly flexible to attach to the table.

    Is such a thing available commercially? Has anyone made their own?

    Super Dave


    dvk
    Member posted 05-16-2004 01:33 PM

    This is a great thread John, I like the idea of using a pan for your vice, I'm going to look into doing something like that

    for my lil mill. Definately going to make a jack screw set up for my HV bandsaw.


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-16-2004 06:00 PM

    Super dave,
    Here's what I use

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens.../millguard.jpg

    Same tray with a three sided shield dropped in.
    A clear lexan panel clips on at the front to keep everything contained but still easy to swap parts.

    They work very well and keep swarf and coolant in.

    I fasten the three sides with piano hinges so they fold flat for storage. There is one for a bigger tray laying on top for

    the photo.

    The side on mine are some form of textured Lexan that I found in the scrap but they could even be ply if you wanted.

    John S.


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-16-2004 07:00 PM

    This one is that simple it must be common knowledge.

    Drilling in the lathe usually involves centre drilling then swapping the centre drill for the drill and carrying on.
    Ages ago I fitted a centre drill to a short morse blank so i didn't have to keep swapping over.
    Bad move, - because a centre drill is so short I needed to keep winding the tailstock barrel right out to reach the work over

    the carriage with the resulting loss of stiffness.

    Enter the MKll

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...es/centers.jpg

    Just the same as before but on an extended morse holder. This way no winding right out, short travel, quick and easy to

    centre drill then swap over for the chuck. I have three holders for the lathe to hold the three most common sized centre

    drills.
    Once you are setup for doing one, an extra two isn't a lot more work.

    John S.


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-16-2004 07:28 PM

    I picked up a Collis magic chuck on ebay for less than 10.00
    Made up the following for quick change over.
    Sorry the chuck is not in the pic,but the chuck has an mt4 that fits into the tail stock and has a quick locking system via

    balls.
    Found a pic of the chuck

    http://img5.photobucket.com/albums/v...ks/pg363-1.gif

    http://img5.photobucket.com/albums/v...rks/tools3.jpg

    Forrest Addy
    Member posted 05-16-2004 08:15 PM

    I've seen them all atone timeor another. All great tricks you seldom see in a machine shop "tricks book".

    I wonder why not. John and you other's ave the start of a great "tips" book: "The Home Shop Machinist's Trick Book Compiled

    my Home Shop Machinists". I'll suggest it to Neil if thats OK with you guys.

    The movable jaw in my Asian band cut-off saw is a bit too skinny for tapping for that very handy jaw jack. I usually have

    odds and ends of shims for cutting short thin stuff and a selection of different length bolts and a coupler nut to use for

    jacks in thicker stuff.


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-16-2004 08:26 PM

    "John and you other's have the start of a great "tips" book"

    Forest
    I am tired of telling him that:
    "Shops Tips" by John Stevenson and Forest Andy.

    I will take my 15% for pushing you guys in US Cash, with no bill larger than a $20.00!!
    take care
    e


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-16-2004 08:28 PM

    As well,
    Not a tip as such,but I have been printing off tips etc from this and others sites and putting them in a binder for

    reference!!
    e


    coles-webb
    Member posted 05-16-2004 09:21 PM

    Here is a small and simple toolpost grinder for small jobs. Aluminum was scrap and grinder was $10 plus a small regulator on

    the back to start and stop the air. The only other item needed is a bar with a diamond in it. The only draw back for me is I

    can only take light cuts, but I've used many times for grinding pilots on drills or grinding a couple of thou off a milling

    cutter so it cuts undersize(or a reamer).

    http://www3.sympatico.ca/mike.coles/toolpost.jpg

    Mike


    charlie coghill
    Member posted 05-16-2004 10:29 PM

    quote:Originally posted by suprdvn:
    I like your vice tray John. I have a vertical knee mill cnc with a coolant pump. I haven't used the pump yet because I

    have no containment yet. I will need higher sides though for higher RPMs.
    I am considering something removeable & possibly flexible to attach to the table.

    Is such a thing available commercially? Has anyone made their own?

    Super Dave


    Dave I am making chip containers using plexaglass. I cut the plexaglass the size I need, drill the glass and bolt an old CB

    antana spring to the glass. The other end of the spring gets fastened to a big magnet that was salvaged from a speaker. This

    way the spring and magnet gives saving the glass from breaking in the event I crash it.

    Another thing I do when I want to set a tool bit on center. I lightly pinch a 6" machinest scale between the tool bit and the

    work. If the top of the scale tilits towards you the tool bit is low and if the scale tilits away from you the tool bit is

    high.
    Charlie


    Neil
    Moderator posted 05-17-2004 03:54 PM

    These tips are some really nice items! Forrest's thoughts about doing a "Home Shop Machinist Tips by Home Shop Machinists"

    book is first rate.

    What do you readers think about the idea? We normally do not want to pick up internet articles for several reasons, but this

    may be an opportunity to preserve some nifty items. The thought would be to put together about 120 pages into a soft-bound

    shop manual. Could be a neat opportunity to get your pet idea into print!

    Neil


    dsergison
    Member posted 05-17-2004 04:13 PM

    I'd buy it. seriously.

    While I usually don't need an in depth build recipie for a single item like the normal mag's I would just love a general

    exposure to 100 nifty ideas, just like this thread is panning out.


    Georgeo
    Member posted 05-17-2004 04:29 PM

    Neil_
    Verily I say unto you "DO IT".
    George


    bernie
    Member posted 05-17-2004 04:33 PM

    YES, YES, YES. Good idea. This is a very useful topic. Alomst as good as the CD plan! By the way, how's that coming along?

    Many thanks to all you guys and your sharing.


    G.A. Ewen
    Member posted 05-17-2004 05:03 PM

    Great idea. It could turn out to be a best seller that gets a lot of use by everyone that buys it.


    John Stevenson
    Member posted 05-17-2004 06:12 PM

    Copying a taper on the lathe.

    Quick and easy way to copy a known taper you have an example of. Ideal for making copies of morse tapers for attachments. No

    measuring equipment or tables needed.

    First off set the top slide to zero. Then fit a piece of flat parallel into the tool holder similar to a boring bar and on

    centre line as the pic.

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...les/taper1.jpg

    Chuck a piece of stout drill rod or a parallel test bar in the chuck. Slacken the toolpost off and wind the flat parallel in

    so it lies just touching the test bar all along it's length. A piece of white card or paper will help to show the gap. Once

    it's touching just nip the toolpost and recheck.

    Don't touch the toolpost again. Remove the test bar from the chuck and replace with the taper you want to copy, in the second

    pic it's a 3MT taper

    http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stevens...les/taper2.jpg

    Next slacken the top slide holding bolts or whatever your machine is fitted with and gently wind in so the parallel touches

    the new taper. You will find that it will slew the top slide until the parallel sits snug against the taper, again a white

    paper or card will help.
    Tighten the top slide and you now have your machine set to cut a 3MT. You don't even have to check what the degrees are on

    the scale.
    No running up and down with a dial gauge and tapping the slide over.

    Once the top slide is set you can remove the parallel and do what you like with the tool holder.

    This procedure, like a lot of quick tips takes far longer to explain than to do.

    John S.


    jeastwood
    Member posted 05-17-2004 06:16 PM

    I'd buy it.


    motorworks
    Member posted 05-17-2004 06:33 PM

    Hi
    I am not very good with pics, getting a new cam soon,so I will try to describe a couple of things:

    1) I make various things that require bearings fits on the shaft or housing.Sometimes I have to bore out pulleys etc to inch

    or metric bores.
    I have a box of various size metric and inch bearings for "testing" the holes or fits.Just a way to make sure that the shaft

    or bored hole is just right.
    2)I also keep a box of various size metric and standard nuts for "testing" the threads I cut before sending out the units.

    This way I am double sure that the bearings or nuts, etc are going to fit when they get to the customer.


    Evan
    Member posted 05-17-2004 06:35 PM

    A very simple tip: Don't forget that you can index from the chuck key holes on a 3 or four jaw chuck.


    bernie
    Member posted 05-17-2004 10:23 PM

    2 hex nuts side by side make good drill point guage.


    G.A. Ewen
    Member posted 05-17-2004 11:11 PM

    I have a cheap import hight gage that is used exclusively to set my lathe tools on center. After carefully setting it I

    locked it tight and never moved it again. It is a real time saver.

    http://img4.photobucket.com/albums/0...N/652d5fa3.jpg

    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.




  • #2
    Pages 2 and 3 in seperate posts to save bandwidth for dial up members.

    [This message has been edited by John Stevenson (edited 05-22-2004).]
    .

    Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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