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OT slightly... its still a machine.... parts for Sears 936342?

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  • OT slightly... its still a machine.... parts for Sears 936342?

    Specifically, I want a new blade for the thing. I'd like a blade with a lower tooth count, but they may never have made one, as thins is for a cross-cut, normally calling for a fine pitch blade.

    It's a "miter box", the kind with a captive saw, which in this case is a fine tooth tensioned blade saw. This unit, actually, per Amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EW0MBWE/?tag=network20-20

    The 936342 Craftsman part number goes no place at Sears parts. Yet, it seems they must have made it up until relatively recently. And they should have had blades for it. I have not seen a blade of that sort in any other product.

    It isn't a wonderful product, but it is a usable decent product. I don't need a power miter saw, I don't have that much call for it.

    Sears still sells a similar piece, but it does not use the tensioned blade system. Structure of the thing appears to be plastic instead of the metal of the 936342, and it uses a backed saw.
    Last edited by J Tiers; 10-22-2014, 02:07 AM.
    1601

    Keep eye on ball.
    Hashim Khan

  • #2
    Strange, they have those blades in the local hardware store, I think it says picture framing saw on the nail they hang
    Mark

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    • #3
      Machine Mart (Our version of HR etc.) used to sell replacement blades on our side of the pond.

      Regards Ian.
      You might not like what I say,but that doesn't mean I'm wrong.

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      • #4
        Stanley makes a similar style miter saw and lists parts for it here:

        http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/mitreboxes-20-800.html

        I did not look at the sears one too closely, but if the sizes look similar there may be something you could use.

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        • #5
          Makes sense that it would be a standard type already made, and it looks like a Stanley in many ways. Thanks for that idea.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

          Comment


          • #6
            Lee Valley sells blades for Nobex miter boxes, 12 to 32 tpi. It might be possible to adapt these to fit your saw.

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            • #7
              http://miterboxshop.blogspot.com/201...352-miter.html

              Might be helpful or at least a trail head for more info.

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              • #8
                The Stanley 20-800 looks like a lineal descendant of the one I have, Saw blades will likely fit. (or not). The Stanley is a bit cheezier, although the Craftsman unit has it's bits of cheese also.

                Thanks
                1601

                Keep eye on ball.
                Hashim Khan

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, I suppose if the Stanley one is close or even a bit longer, you might be able to get some machinist to alter it to fit. I suppose you might be able to find a machinist someplace if you ask around enough...

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                  • #10
                    !!

                    Actually, saw blades can be a hassle. They are thin, but kinda hard. Too thin to drill, harder than it is nice to punch. These are just likely spring temper, with the edge hardened more, so they might punch OK, but with a higher tonnage.
                    1601

                    Keep eye on ball.
                    Hashim Khan

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by J Tiers View Post
                      !!

                      Actually, saw blades can be a hassle. They are thin, but kinda hard. Too thin to drill, harder than it is nice to punch. These are just likely spring temper, with the edge hardened more, so they might punch OK, but with a higher tonnage.
                      True enough. I have nothing that would punch through such stuff. I read someplace (might have been in one of the "Bedside Reader" books) of spot annealing a hardened blade by using a mill or drill press to spin a blunt end of a steel rod against it with downward pressure, and creating a hot spot due to friction. Seems plausible, but I've never tired it. I have a few power hacksaw blades that are too long for my PH. This sort of reminded me that I ought to try that on one of those.

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                      • #12
                        I figure to sandwich it between two pieces of metal such as 1018, and drill through the lot with a cobalt drill. I'm not going to risk mushrooming a punch on it, drills are cheaper and I have lots of them.
                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by alanganes View Post
                          True enough. I have nothing that would punch through such stuff. I read someplace (might have been in one of the "Bedside Reader" books) of spot annealing a hardened blade by using a mill or drill press to spin a blunt end of a steel rod against it with downward pressure, and creating a hot spot due to friction. Seems plausible, but I've never tired it. I have a few power hacksaw blades that are too long for my PH. This sort of reminded me that I ought to try that on one of those.
                          I tried that, and I think it worked. It's been a while since I was turning that saw blade into a putty knife... I wound up with a lesson on sharpening drill bits, by trying to drill through with a cheap HSS bit, dulling it, then resharpening it. I got it to work eventually, though.

                          Now that I think of it, I might have heated the tang with a torch to soften it.

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