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_ Rubber spray for conveyor belt roller, Drum sander ???

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  • _ Rubber spray for conveyor belt roller, Drum sander ???

    Have a long term project, homemade horizontal drum sander.

    Next stage will be the table and conveyor belt to pull the wood through/under the sanding drum.

    I will be using (unless a better and cheaper option comes along) a 25" X 75" Sanding Belt as the conveyors belt.

    The conveyor rollers will be roughly 1-7/8 OD pipe 26" long.

    I was thinking of spraying some rubber on the rollers (or at least the drive roller).
    * Any opinions about this ?
    * What spray to use ?
    * To use it at all ?

    Heres some pictures of the project so far and a model of it.
    The yellow rollers on the ends of the table are what im seeking opinions about.



    ~ What was once an Opinion, became a Fact, to be later proven Wrong ~
    http://site.thisisjusthowidoit.com
    https://www.youtube.com/user/thisisjusthowidoit

  • #2
    I would think knurling would be a better treatment for the drive roller. If I was going to try to rubberize it, I would try Plasti-Dip.

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    • #3
      Misspell,
      I just finished rebuilding my utility trailer and found that Harbor Freight had a product that was like LINE X the truck bed coating so I tryed it and it worked real well and has proven to be quite tough. They offer it in a spray can ( I got the Gallon for the trailer ) and just bought 1can for touchup on a couple of places that l missed. seems just as tough and goes on thick or thin but be sure and mask off it is a wide spray.

      Just one more idea.

      Mr fixit for the family
      Chris

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      • #4
        They usually get coated with polyurethane rubber, a rubber coating company would do it for you and finish grind it for not much money really, there are different grades
        Black red etc, some stand heat better than others
        Worth exploring
        Mark

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        • #5
          It will fall off very quickly. The rubber needs to be vulcanized in place. There are places that rebuild rubber drive rolls that can coat and machine the roller true for you.

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          • #6
            On a conveyor, the rubber on the drive roll is held on mechanically with fasteners, no attempt to make it seamless. For a belt sander, you might consider sourcing replacement rollers from one of the belt sander manufacturers. Otherwise as macona suggested, take you drive roller to a company that rebuilds them. If it's not smooth, it will probably telegraph its irregularities to the finish on the wood.

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            • #7
              There are commercial drum sanders for wood that are open ended like this, it should work if he designed it right. He ought to plate the sides of the drum support, that would stiffen things significantly.

              http://www.toolfetch.com/jet-659006k...y75xoCs7rw_wcB

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              • #8
                You may not need it.I had a Performax sander that converted a Radial arm saw into a drum sander .The feed roller and belt setup for it was just a wide belt sander belt and the rollers were nothing but 1" diameter cold rolled no rubber applied.It worked fine,it is a drum sander after all and not a planer.

                That sander worked okay for what it was.The one thing it needed were hold down rollers to keep the workpiece from lifting off the table.You might want to think about adding some.
                I just need one more tool,just one!

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                • #9
                  Thanks too All for the suggestions and feed back about the rollers.
                  Im gonna look into this farther, any other opinions are definitely welcome.

                  In the image above, there are two aluminum blocks for the presser rollers. Did acouple test runs and they "kind of worked" but will be redesigned with springs. How they are now, fixed, does not seam the best. More testing will be done once the table is complete.

                  As for the open end.
                  I would like to keep it open, but understand it may cause problems which, as of now will be tackle one of two ways.
                  1) Extended the back square tubes higher and then run some bracing down at an angle to the horizontal framing which the drum sits in (would look like a triangle).
                  2) Liked said here, add a brace to the open end, but i would like to avoid that if i can.

                  In some test runs with a makeshift table, i was able to control the taper by adjusting the table.
                  The real table will be made from box tubing with a plate in the middle, im hope to beable to adjust the plate to take any taper out and not have that effect the tracking of the conveyors "belt".

                  Someone posted (but the post seams to have dissapeared) about the dust... you got that right
                  First test run with a makeshift table was cut very short because of the dust, a makeshift dust hood was cobbed up:



                  Also, the table will move, the drum is stationary.




                  Again, thanks for the input (on everything) everyone.
                  I searched around at the Grizzly site.
                  The drive roller in a few of there machines state knurled in the parts description.



                  _
                  ~ What was once an Opinion, became a Fact, to be later proven Wrong ~
                  http://site.thisisjusthowidoit.com
                  https://www.youtube.com/user/thisisjusthowidoit

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    We use a planer and a wide belt sander at work. The one thing I wish they both had is a longer table that the work feeds across. If I was building one from scratch, I'd use two stout steel channels for the sides, then incorporate the rollers, the inside table, and the outside tables into that one assembly (complete with motor drive for at least one of the rollers) I would be highly tempted to use a treadmill belt instead of a sanding belt for the feed. A treadmill will also have an anti-friction surface where the belt passes over, and I would probably use that for the center table section. You can find treadmills cheap from time to time- the ones I take hole are usually free. The belts look to be quite durable, and somebody has already done the engineering to make the belt, drive roller, and tread surface work together. I think you'll find you don't need to coat the drive roller.
                    I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                    • #11
                      I have built numerous conveyors. On some I was lucky to get appropriate rollers cheap at HGR. For my homemade rollers I have the best results using skateboard tape from Home Depot. Cut it into strips that just fit around the roller and keep adding them until it is covered. One was used in wet conditions and still worked fine. Dennis

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                      • #12
                        I have been in a speciality machine shop that recovered metal rollers with rubber like products. I watched them do it and they had a piece of rubber hose, using air pressure to expand the hose and it slid right over the metal drive roll. When the air was turned off the rubber hose tightened right up around the metal core. I use the term rubber loosely, the actual coverings were made of various materials.

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