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My lathe Rusted over night!!!!

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  • My lathe Rusted over night!!!!

    Good Day to all. I just searched the achieves with no luck so any advise would be great. I just received a 67 South Bend and it has rusted in my garage over night. It seems that the metal is sweating and creating rust. What should my next step be? Do I oil and with what and is WD40 my friend or foe? Thank you to any or all that answers back….


  • #2
    WD40 is your friend, you just have to know how to use it.Well, your lathe is not covered in oil, thats first problem, my lathe has way oil all over the ways. AS for the WD40, you spray it on thick, let it sit over night, next morning, Give it a rub down, because WD40 does have water in it. Your lathe shouldnt rust for the next 6 months with that wd40 treatment, BUT you must rub it down after the night.


    • #3
      should I try to clean up the mosture first or just spray wd40 and let it set?

      [This message has been edited by Woody Hales (edited 05-22-2004).]


      • #4
        well if you want to get rid of the rust, spray WD40 all over it, and rub off the rust with some paper towels, or if your not worried, use steel wool to get rid of rust, just lightly rubbing it. then Spray more WD40 on it, and rub off rest of rust, then spray it on some more and let it sit over night, then give a rub down. WD40 is also a nice cleaner.


        • #5
          Thank you Bill...


          • #6
            Oh and please, keep your lathe well lubricated. My 1941 southbend has never rusted on me yet.


            • #7
              MAke sure you use fine or very fine steel wool (000 or 0000).


              Pursue Excellence and the rest will follow.
              Pursue Excellence and the rest will follow.


              • #8
                I hate steel wool and will not use it. It makes my mouth taste like ****. If you have a rust/humidity problem then spray your machine tools with light mineral oil. This should not be a problem.
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                • #9
                  I use fine scotch brite or crocus cloth and some light oil. I find it less abrasive and doesn't leave all those little slivers behind to stick in your skin. I am lucky in that I don't have very acidic skin as some people I know will touch a tool and their fingerprints will rust shortly after on the surfaces they touch.


                  [This message has been edited by coles-webb (edited 05-23-2004).]


                  • #10
                    you might want to make sure that you do not have any acids-hydrochloric-sulphuric ect stored in the same room as your lathe as that can cause all bare steel things to rust .
                    you might also consider buying a good cover like for a barbeque to put over the machine when not in use


                    • #11
                      Use diesel fuel on the bare metal surfaces that you don't want to coat with way oil.


                      • #12
                        The reason the lathe went rusty in the first place is possibly due to a temperature change.
                        If the machine was very cold and then put in a warm humid environment, then the warm air condenses on the cold metal surfaces and causes instant rust.
                        I use an electric fan heater wired to a frost stat which is set to 5آ°C. and this seems to prevent things getting cold enough to rust.
                        Machine tools like stable temperatures.


                        • #13
                          WD-40 is nearly useless as a rust preventative. The people that swear by it seldom see a condensing environment. In a high humidity environment where temperature changes (as night and day) widely you cannot prevent water from condensing on cool metal surfaces and WD-40 is not a metal preservative with active rust prevention agents nor does it form a moisture resistant film. Read the can.

                          I'm an expert on preventing rust in the home shop. Rust has been my enemy for many years. I worked for the Navy where rust has been the enemy for 230 years and who spends over $1B a year battling rust.

                          I live in Puget Sound country where we not only have 8 months of drizzle but 150 days of 80 to 100% overnight humidity plus 20+ fog days in the late summer and fall. If that isn't enough we get a weather phenominom called the Pinapple Express after polar lows. Under these circumstances moisture will form on cold metal before your eyes.

                          OTH I have a friend in Judith Gap, Montana who ignore his machinery in a skakey old shed and never has a bit of rust.

                          If you have a severe rust problem (Woody's sounds severe) and you cannot cover the machine and include a heat source (like a light bulb) you have to spray it down with a real metal preservative like LPS-3 conforming to MIL-C-1637D Grade 2 or an equivalent. WD-40 is to rust prevention what co-ed dorms are to birth control.

                          The best defense against rust is a tightly closed shop equipped with a de-humidifier intended for cool enviroments.

                          If your situation involves machine tools in a garage where wet cars are brought in several times a day, you are just stuck. There is no cure for this hunidity situation except for localised heat under cover and a rela metal preservative.

                          I keep a heater in the column of my milling machine with the door closed. I've equipped my engine lathe with a heat tape running around the bed at about the neutral axis. The planer is a particular problem I solved with both a heat tape and a heater in the column and a cover made from a clean painter's drop cloth.

                          Everything is on humidostats connected to control relays that switch on the heaters at 60% Rh.

                          Rust is a reagional problem. What works for Puget Sound doesn't always work well for the Mid-West or Florida and the Gulf Coast or New England. Just don't bet on WD-40.


                          • #14
                            I would use one of the synthetic fiber wools found in most of the catalogs. It works just like steel wool, but doesn't leave slivers of metal behind.
                            I use it to buff scratches out of material that cannot be contaminated by other metals. I also use it with a little thinner to remove rust from surfaces.

                            It is available in coarse, medium and fine. The boxes cost about $20 or so but will last a good while.



                            • #15
                              Hello, I had this same problem in my previous shop before i Moved.The problem became really annoying.One day i started to think about and realized there was no Vapor barrier underneath
                              the concrete which was just wicking moisture.I found i could almost control the situation by placing my machinery ect on rubber mats.My new shop which i Built has a good vapor barrier under it and i havent had problem 1 and the new shop is only 5 miles from the old one I didnt change climates.