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Re-restoring the mini camelback drill (Canedy Otto no. 28)

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  • #16
    Thanks for the input Paul, I'll give tinypic a try, imageshack seems to have really gone down hill, it was very difficult even getting those pics uploaded and posted, and of course with very unsatisfactory results.

    The screwdrivers you speak of are known as the perfect handle pattern, if your unhappy with yours send them to me and I'll insure that those death traps are disposed of properly and in a safe mannor! many companies made them over the years, the design goes back to the 1860s I think, and they continue to be made today, though the newer ones are said to be of dubious quality. I've been attempting to build a set for years now and have about 5, a few diffrant brands, 2 or 3 of them were my great grandfather's. I've got a bunch of other screwdrivers, some craftsman, some China, some I don't know, but I usually grab one of my perfect handle ones if I can, I don't do much electrical work, I'm not an electrician, but when I do I am very carefull, and I don't use those. I needed to install a breaker in the house a couple months ago and to do so I didn't want to shut off the main, so I used my boots and was carefull I wasnt grouded, I wore gloves and used a plastic handled screw driver, I also didn't need to touch any bare metal even with the gloves, all went smooth.

    Oh and the beer went in my belly and was converted to urin shortly thereafter, the ring was promptly wiped away, I can assure you that no beers were wasted or drill press tables harmed in the taking of the photograph.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by the kid View Post

      The screwdrivers you speak of are known as the perfect handle pattern, if your unhappy with yours send them to me and I'll insure that those death traps are disposed of properly and in a safe mannor! many companies made them over the years, the design goes back to the 1860s I think,raph.
      The grips are great, and they'll cary a shock-wave from a hammer realy great when needed.
      I'll hunt for a pic of a realy unusual use for an original later.
      Gotta Go.

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      • #18
        Indeed they will, which is the reason so many (probably most actually) of the originals are so buggered up, I think I've either had to straitin and or regrind every one I've got, the little ones are probably harder to find too for this reason, I try to buy every perfect handle pattern tool I see, and coe's knife handle wrenches make for a nice companion as well.

        Here's another video on my progress, in this one I begin fabrication of the shifting fork assembly.


        Oh and I've gotten the pictures fixed, thanks again Paul for the suggestion to try tinypic, it was leaps and bounds better and simpler than imageshak, I'm sold!
        Last edited by the kid; 12-21-2014, 09:33 AM.

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        • #19
          Got some more work done on the drill, she's got oilers! I got some goodies from my favorite hardware store, and I've started work on my drive setup, and repaired my return spring. here's a couple videos:





          I'll edit in a few stills later on.

          Pics:







          Last edited by the kid; 12-24-2014, 08:55 PM.

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          • #20
            thats a neat oldie- about what year? guessings maybe late 20s?

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            • #21
              I was thinking more in the early teens, the catalogue this is listed in isnt dated, but it's catalogue no. 12, so I'm thinking maybe that means 1912? The motor shown on the electric version looks quite early.

              Here's a link to a pdf of the catalogue http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/153/1175.pdf
              Last edited by the kid; 12-24-2014, 09:02 PM.

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              • #22
                very cool- I love old stuff

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                • #23
                  Well I e done some more work on the mini camelback, made a mahogany pulley, and discovered the motor I've got runs the wrong direction, here's a video of my progress and of the making of the pulley, which I'm quite happy with, I've got more video that needs to be edited together too and put up.

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                  • #24
                    I am enjoying your vids. Thanks for sharing.. JR

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by the kid View Post
                      Well I e done some more work on the mini camelback, made a mahogany pulley, and discovered the motor I've got runs the wrong direction,
                      You DO know that most motors are reasonably easily reversed, right?
                      CNC machines only go through the motions.

                      Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                      Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                      Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                      I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                      Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                      • #26
                        Yes, I'm not sure how exactly to do so though, also after a little further testing the old motor I wanted to run was a bit underpowered and was overheating just idling the drill, do rather than puts around with insufficient power I've gone back to the 1/2 horse motor I had on it before, which needed, and still needs a bit of work (replace el-cheapo bearings with good sealed bearings) and I've got my eye out now for a nice, old timey, 1/3-1/2 hp motor. I've made a mounting plate that will have the motor, shaft, pulley, and bearing on it as an assembly, so that I can mount the unit under the bench, on the ceiling, or wherever else I ultimatly decide, probably under the bench for convenience and space savings.

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                        • #27
                          use whatever motor, but I would be surprised if ANY sensible motor would overheat "just idling" the drill. "Overheating" is often somewhat subjective when discussing it, and gets tossed around....but it means something specific.

                          Most folks assume that if they cannot touch the motor comfortably, it is "overheating", but that rarely is the case.

                          Most motors are set up for a 40C rise, which is 72F, and will take a room temp motor to a temp that will scorch your hand.... Knock off 20F for hotspot (10C) and it's still a 50F rise, taking the motor to a temp you would not be able to safely take a shower in.

                          At idle, not even loaded with a belt, the temp may still get up there to uncomfortable temps (for you, not for the motor).

                          The supposedly "undersized" motor may be perfectly fine for it. (or not)
                          CNC machines only go through the motions.

                          Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                          Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                          Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                          I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                          Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

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                          • #28
                            I didn't know that, I've always been of the school of thought that if an electric motor is too hot to touch than its overheating and there's a problem, but basicly what your saying is that unless it starts smoking it's ok?

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by the kid View Post
                              I didn't know that, I've always been of the school of thought that if an electric motor is too hot to touch than its overheating and there's a problem, but basicly what your saying is that unless it starts smoking it's ok?
                              Sorta.

                              Actually, a standard class of motor shouldn't go above about 115C in the hottest spot inside. Normally, it is assumed that the hot spot is about 10C hotter than you can measure, so the measured winding temp would be 105C, and the exterior of the motor might be as hot as maybe 80C, or around 170F, which isn't quite "smoking" hot, but is way too hot to be touching.

                              Some standard motor classes can get 20 to 40 C hotter, but mostly the ones you run across are 115C types, or are best assumed to be.

                              You don't give your location or country, but if there is a "harbor freight" store near you, they have non-contact thermometers which on sale are as cheap as 29 bucks. Those are great for motor checking.
                              Last edited by J Tiers; 12-28-2014, 12:16 PM.
                              CNC machines only go through the motions.

                              Ideas expressed may be mine, or from anyone else in the universe.
                              Not responsible for clerical errors. Or those made by lay people either.
                              Number formats and units may be chosen at random depending on what day it is.
                              I reserve the right to use a number system with any integer base without prior notice.
                              Generalizations are understood to be "often" true, but not true in every case.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I live in Southern California so we've got horror freight around here, I'll look in to getting on of those thermometers in the future. For now I've just done some work on the other motor I had on it before, remade my shaft, and remachined the shaft on the motor a bit, I still need to grab some bearings for it, I want to get some sealed ones in place, here's another video of my progress, I took the video a couple days ago and had trouble uploading it, the end kept getting cut off, so I had to delete it a couple times and re upload to get it all working.

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