Threading set up

[loose nut]

Is there a better way to square up the threading tool with the work piece then using the "fish". Thanks.

[cameron]

If you are using a HSS tool, grind the cutting edges, using a jig if necessary, so that they are accurately deflected 30 degrees right and left of the line of the left side of the tool. Use the edges of a rule, or other means, to line the tool up with the face of the chuck.

[d kirby]

Hi, Here is the method that I use, I find it quick and easy.

1) Turn the compound to 60 deg.
2) Tighten the toolbit in the toolholder and leave the toolholder loose on the compound.
3) Run the crosslide up to the chuck and square up the front of the toolbit with the face of the chuck. You may want to put a piece of paper under the chuck to help with the viewing of the square up.
4) When the toolbit is squared up, tighten the toolholder on the compound.
5) Turn the compound back to 30 deg.
The toolbit is now square to the workpiece and set to 30 deg. or set to 29 1/2.

Dave

[boslab]

A magnet on a "fishtail" is handy, but if as rightly mentioned the tool is ground right you gust square the tool off the chuck, same for insert tools.
Or just guess like I do, joking of course!
Mark

[Paul Alciatore]

If the angles on the tool or insert are at a true 30 degrees to the shank, then you could just align the shank to either parallel to the faceplate or perpendicular to the the cross slide ways.

But frankly, the fishtail gauge is fast and accurate enough for 99.9999% of any work either you or I will ever do. I mean, who has ever even seen a tolerance on the angle of the thread form? I'm sure one exists somewhere, but +/- 1 degree would be good enough for almost all threading.

[RussZHC]

I sat and puzzled about this and then waited to see what others would post...I puzzled about what you are/were really asking since to me, it almost sounds like you are or have cut a thread on or with a taper that was not supposed to be that way...hence the question about "better" and squareness.

The other part of the puzzledness (sic) was exactly what surface one could measure from to check squareness and then not move that surface when inserting the threading tool/threading cutting bit.
I thought tool post or tool holder and either a square or 1-2-3 block (or, I guess for that matter, any gage block), or indicating that the compound is actually moving parallel to axis of lathe by indicating the edge/side of a some ground stock (IIRC someone did a video showing this indicating)...but none of this sounds correct since, to me, those are not really threading problems per se but lathe alignment issues.

The other thing I thought it could be was trusting the accuracy of the degree marks on a given lathe. I think that has been answered by previous posting(s).

Excuse the rambling/wrong tangent.

[PixMan]

I most often use ER16 insert threading tools on my lathe and quickly set the the tool square to the work by placing a parallel across the face of the chuck (which I know runs true) and then bring the tool shank up to it with the toolpost a bit loose. Allow the 1" tool holder shank to come in full contact with the parallel, tighten (quick change) toolpost nut and off I go to threading!

When using a hand ground HSS threading tool (very rare), I leave the tool loose in it's tool holder block with one set screw touching as the pivot point. bring the tool up to the thread gauge (fishtail) and snug up a second set screw. Snug the other one and double check. Always "good to go."

[loose nut]

But frankly, the fishtail gauge is fast and accurate enough for 99.9999% of any work either you or I will ever do.

I agree with you but I find that I need three hands to hold it tight adjust the work and adjust the tool.

I was just wondering if something better had come along.

[wendtmk]

I agree with you but I find that I need three hands to hold it tight adjust the work and adjust the tool.

I was just wondering if something better had come along.

Tape it to the tool.

Mark

[Old Hat]

Make this little puppy.
Takes maybe what, a half hour. A tiny drop of super glue holds your fish in the V-rod.

[CarlByrns]

Make this little puppy.
Takes maybe what, a half hour. A tiny drop of super glue holds your fish in the V-rod.

Oh, I like that.

[loose nut]

I'll give it a shot.

[Old Hat]

PS......... If you use cold-rolled heat it red-orange first, and let it cool evenly.
That way it will be stress-free and not go bannana, when you ball/V cut it.

[RichR]

This came mixed in with some tools I bought last year:

I'd just assumed they all came with a base.

[Old Hat]

Please re-pic showing the complete identify~ing stamping.
That way it's searchable, easy to make but easy~er to buy no?