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Building Press, lots of holes to drill

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  • Carm
    replied
    "...but what cutting fluid would be best for this particular application?"

    Any soluble cutting oil. The portables (mag base) have a gravity fed canteen, I have used water in them. On a mill, usually dry (with Crisco) but not production pace.

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  • pb57
    replied
    Thanks for all the replies guys. I have a nice 15 inch Clausing Drill Press that I just restored but I am still going to use my new mill. I think the DRO will simplify things and keep things accurate. My new Acer doesn't have coolant yet and don't know if I will ever install it. I like the idea of Crisco inside the annular cutter but what cutting fluid would be best for this particular application? Ive built 2 presses in the last 25 years and have just drilled the holes in the past. I have always used 6" ID cylinders with a Williams pump with its own reservoir. They were a popular pump for hoists on straight truck boxes. I install a 1-1/2 horse motor and pulley it about 4 to1 and they have worked great and last forever. They put out between 3500 and 4000 psi and that easily computes to 50 ton. I like the power when I need it. Hate the cheap Harbor Freight presses I looked at but im sure they work fine for most garage applications. Plus I like to over build. thanks again Paul

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  • Carm
    replied
    If anyone does stack their material, be careful to stop and pull the slug after the first hole, or you will have problems.
    The typical grind DOES NOT cut the inside through, it leaves a thin burr around the slug. This will spin preventing entry, and if you're asleep possibly breaking the cutter or stripping the rack.
    Grinds can be had for stack cutting.

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  • JRouche
    replied
    This thing eats!!



    I have about 50 brand new cutters for it. Didnt have it when I built my 50ton press. I used my el cheapo ryobi 14" drill press. Its the bench model. And a greenlee 1" hole saw. I only had to do 32 holes through 3/8" steel and the holesaw is still scary sharp. JR

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  • metalmagpie
    replied
    I have done a lot of work with annular cutters. Be sure to use a cutting fluid. These cutters are expensive to sharpen, so do everything you can to keep them sharp.

    I have used them in a 3/4" end mill holder. They cut the holes fine but ejecting the slugs is tough. I agree with the suggestion to use a mag drill. However, if I were going to do that I'd tack your verticals in pairs and cut your holes through both at once so all of your holes line up.

    metalmagpie

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  • Toolguy
    replied
    "Do not use a vertical mill as it may cause excessive wear on the mill quill." OldTiffie

    Sorry Tiffie, but I must respectfully disagree with you on this one. A Bridgeport type mill is the best drill press ever. You have the workpiece firmly clamped and rigidly controlled and make the hole locations with great exactness. Drilling has a concentric axial force going straight up and down the spindle. No problems for the quill. End milling puts a heavy radial load on one side of the quill, yet the mills go for years doing that.

    I would suggest to the OP to do one hole with the end mill and one hole with the annular cutter at the beginning and see which you prefer to use. It will be an educational opportunity.

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  • goose
    replied
    I agree it sounds like a job for a drill press.

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  • MrSleepy
    replied
    Originally posted by Carm View Post
    Mr.Sleepy, Hougen used Rota-broach as a trade name...was there licensing from UK or did they buy it? Just curious.
    Hougen Manufacturing were the inventors and patent holders ... and Rotabroach is a trademark for them .. The UK Rotabroach is their UK arm set up in 1975 .

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  • Axkiker
    replied
    What do you plan on using for the ram. I eventually want to do the same so im curious how you are going about this build.

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  • Carm
    replied
    "Do not use a vertical mill as it may cause excessive wear on the mill quill."

    Respectfully disagree Oldtiff. But it is true that you won't wear out what you don't use. An annular needs far less thrust than any solid drill.

    Mr.Sleepy, Hougen used Rota-broach as a trade name...was there licensing from UK or did they buy it? Just curious.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldtiffie
    replied
    As the hole positions by the nature of their intended purpose are not really required to be too accurately placed, and if it were me, I'd mark them out and centre punch the hole centres, use a pilot drill to suit the annular cutter and then either hire of buy a good magnetic-based drill for both the pilot and the cutter - and with a good feed of coolant/lubricant.

    Do not use a vertical mill as it may cause excessive wear on the mill quill.

    A good pedestal drill is the way to go if a magnetic-based drill is not available.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrSleepy
    replied
    The cutters cat be sometimes had cheap on ebay if searched for a bit laterally.

    In the UK , the technology was pioneered by the RotaBroach company in Sheffield so search Rota Broach , Rotabroach

    In the US (and UK) , Jancy Engineering sold well with their "Slugger" trademark , So search jancy cutters , slugger cutters , Fein Cutters.

    Rob

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  • Carm
    replied
    Pb57
    I have made these remarks on this forum enough for this disclaimer; I don't own or work for any of the annular makers. But they should pay me for the PR.
    Yep, they are great for making holes, especially large, close to size, repeatable holes that are round, ESPECIALLY on low horsepower machinery.
    The 3/4 R-8 collet will work but you need to observe a couple things. Since it doesn't have the posi drive screws, don't use power feed. If you spin the collet, its days are over if you can't stop on a dime and let things cool before retracting.
    Since the collet doesn't have the ejector/locator pin along with interior coolant flow, you get differential expansion, which at worst, causes the above seizing, or just makes it a PITA to remove the slug. Remember to set the start depth at least slug length above the work.
    Put a gob of Crisco in the cutter bore before you plunge. Use a spray bottle at least.
    Annulars make nasty uncontrollable birds nests. To avoid that, drill a hole a little less than cutter thickness anywhere in the cutting circle. Also makes slug extraction easy.
    HSS SFM of 120 or close works for RPM. 40 holes is a cakewalk.

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  • true temper
    replied
    This would be the best option, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Dri...-/400772073534 I have used a collet and got by fine. A Weldon end mill holder will not work on annular cutters bigger than 3/4" they are too long. Set screw won't reach. I am going to turn one down so it will work.

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  • pb57
    replied
    Ok I just ordered the Bison 1-1/16 annular cutter off ebay it was only 25 dollars so I hope I can get through all 40 holes with it. Im doubting it however. and hopefully the 3/4 collet will hold it unless there is a better method. earlier today I ordered the 1- 1/16 center cutting end mill because I thought that was the better method than a regular drill bit.
    Last edited by pb57; 03-06-2015, 10:59 PM.

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